One of my buds has an 80 parts car. Came with a 4 speed. Wish he'd told me a couple years ago..........
I can get the peddles and console plate. Did they use the z-bar back then? I'll get it too if so. I have the M-21 out of the 70 trans am and the hurst with it. Could use that or.............I have a T-5 from an IROC ,
but do I want the over drive with the 2 87 rear gears I have?
Oh.............and it's a 81 in california I'm working on.
Then......I always wanted an aluminum flywheel. ( Some people dreaming of a white x-mass...........I dream of an aluminum flywheel).
What else can you think of? I'll accumulate the parts before I begin the swap.. Swap May never happen you know, But if I have all the stuff......I'll put it on the list................. .................Drink safe......use both hands...........

 

With the help of a close friend of mine, we have done 2 T5 swaps. One in a 68 I owned and another in my 77. Cant help you with the gearing, but as far as the parts go, you will need that z bar and the bracket it pivots on that mounts to the frame rail, I believe the 80 bolts on, and the ball stud that screws in the block at the other end. Grab the pedals and all the linkage needed for them and the z bar. A clutch kit with the obvious parts in it along with a fork. That aluminum flywheel sounds good too. T5's in the camaro are mounted on the tilt, I used a stock bellhousing and kept it straight. As a result the rear mount will have to be made to accept the tilt of the trans. Also the exhaust hanger will need change also. Driveshaft will have to be shortned. Next is the shifter. Depending on the look you are after, if stock, it has to be altered to come up and over to the left. If this isnt important, I have seen them where the console is cut where the shift diagram is and a large boot made to cover the now bigger opening. A shifter from a mustang works well, as it has a flat with 2 holes in it to bolt a stick to compared to the round one on the camaro. Also, the right side of the tunnel will need a little room for the yoke, no biggie. Cut it out for clearence, then glass over the hole, along with the depression in the floor from the automatic shifter if you want.





Rear mount is the stock one with the front cut off and welded to meet the trans.


Exhaust hanger, cut the ends off the stock one, matched them to the tilt, then had a bar welded across the front of it to keep from bending.

 

Thanks for reminding me that there tilted. When you mounted yours up straight...........what.d you use for a bell housing?
......And dang.......thats a cool shifter. You could put that where ever you wanted.
Is that a auto console top you used? It looks good if thats the case, and Ill just use my old one.
I would have forgotten the ball on the block too....Ill get that.......

 

During my T5 swap it had one of there moment when you realize one of the piece you bought "just in case" is actually a crucial part to get the job done.
In my case is was the extra long dowel pins.
I was Going from a TH350 to Lakewood scattershield, with the stock pins I couldn't have had the bellhousing aligned correctly.

 

ok figure your od ratio with your rear end. depending on your engine specs, cam, etc, it might work, but if you have a 0.6 something OD and any overlap in your cam, you'll never be able to pull it.

 

you don't really need an overdrive with 2.87s. I'm running a richmond 5 speed (no overdrive) and it's fine. I could use one when I'm cruising on the highway around 75-85, but other then that, it's fine. What you DO need with a 2.87 rear is a transmission with a low first gear. 3.0 and numerically higher the better.

I would grab the bellhousing, all the manual clutch linkage (it gets expensive piecing it out) don't forget to unbolt the Zbar bracket from the frame and the ball stud on the engine. the pedals with clutch safety switch, and cut the pigtail for it. don't forget the starter, your auto starter won't work. Console tops are the same for auto and manual, you can buy a 5 speed shift pattern plate from the aftermarket. there's a lot of little things for the swap. just grab anything connected to the transmission or linkage.

 

Just ran in to the guy at the pub.
didn't sound like he was going to get a move on for the parts.
Maybe I need to get him lubed up for motivation.................

 

I used a 621 bell that I had and went with the 11 inch clutch . 1st one had a smaller bell and the smaller clutch. Almost anyone will work. Best improvment to the car. Went with the World Class unit, not as strong as todays bolt-in trans kits for sure, but so far so good.

 

I have a WC T-5 from a Mustang in mine with a .64 O.D and a 3.08 rear gear and that is about as low as I would go. At 70mph I'm at approx 1900rpm's. any lower and it will be lugging IMO.

 

Thats what I was thinking too.....................

 

Isn't that mustang shifter located farther up........like in the middle of the trans?.............Fits okay?

 

Any particular reason you want an aluminum flywheel?

Not sure what your combo is but a lightweight flywheel (aluminum) is not always a good idea on a street car. You stated its a Calfornia car, which I'm assuming is stock or near stock low hp/tq motor, coupled with a 2.87 hiway gear and its a recipe for a poor low speed drivability. An iron or steel flywheel helps to get the car moving with less effort. Don't have to slip the as much. Also depending on your clutch selection a lightweight FW can cause clutch chatter. IMO, stick with a steel flywheel, I think you will be happier.