Steel spring in height off.
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From: Connecticut, USA
Steel spring in height off.
I have the 9 leaf steel in-after grinding the relief recesses for the mounting bolts. I was able to assemble the car enough to roll it off the Kwiklift to see if the suspension would settle and the spring would seat.
The height of the rear is up about 3-4" like it has air shocks! The 1/2 shafts are angling down and the shocks are extended. I don't think the suspension is going to "settle" any time soon :confused:
I have it back on the kwiklift and will tighten the T arm bolt,lower shock mount at the shock and the strut rod and camber bolt to the torque spec's in the GM book.
The link bolts are the 6.5" ones that came with the spring install kit. I think I need longer bolts,but which ones did you use,8" or 10"? Should I tighten the suspension then change the bolts or does it matter. With the longer bolts do they use cotter pins or just locking nuts and do you torque them or just tighen until the body is at ride height?
Thanks for the help,
Gary
[Modified by gtr1999, 11:09 PM 6/10/2002]
The height of the rear is up about 3-4" like it has air shocks! The 1/2 shafts are angling down and the shocks are extended. I don't think the suspension is going to "settle" any time soon :confused:
I have it back on the kwiklift and will tighten the T arm bolt,lower shock mount at the shock and the strut rod and camber bolt to the torque spec's in the GM book.
The link bolts are the 6.5" ones that came with the spring install kit. I think I need longer bolts,but which ones did you use,8" or 10"? Should I tighten the suspension then change the bolts or does it matter. With the longer bolts do they use cotter pins or just locking nuts and do you torque them or just tighen until the body is at ride height?
Thanks for the help,
Gary
[Modified by gtr1999, 11:09 PM 6/10/2002]
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
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From: Austin TX
Re: Steel spring in height off. (gtr1999)
Tighten everything up and drive it for a few days. Purchase 10" Grade 8 (important!) bolts with nylock nuts. Install and adjust until your half shafts are level. cut off the bolts leaving about 1/4" exposed beyond the nut. Round off the cut bolt edges.
Your body may still be higher than you want but you should not adjust such that the half shaft angles up toward the diff as it will screw up suspension travel geometry.
Steel springs will settle over time.
Your body may still be higher than you want but you should not adjust such that the half shaft angles up toward the diff as it will screw up suspension travel geometry.
Steel springs will settle over time.
Thread Starter
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Steel spring in height off. (ylose)
Thanks guys. I will torque the suspension on the Kwiklift at ride height. How will the spring/body height affect the rear alignment? I was planning on installing the longer spring bolt before getting it aligned.
Gary
Gary
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 6,273
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From: Austin TX
Re: Steel spring in height off. (gtr1999)
Height adjustment will not affect alignment much but I would do the adjustment before I had a four wheel alignment done. Ask your local Corvette club members for a good alignment shop. Some are not familiar with the trailing arm/strut rod design of C3s.
Thread Starter
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From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Steel spring in height off. (flynhi)
Thanks Will, I expect to adjust it before I bring it to a Vette shop. I torqued the 4 spring pad bolts to 70 ft/lbs,the strut rod camber bolt, the shocks and mounts, and the T arm bolt. I used the torque spec's off of Vette Brakes web page. I have to torque the axles cap bolt to 30ft/lbs and that should be it.
New problem is a brake line leak at the right rear brass block,it's seeping. I'm not sure yet from the cross over line nut or the new rubber hose. I had to open th esystem anyway because the caliper lines are right over the spring link bolt hole in the rear of the T arm. :rolleyes:
It will give me a chance to try the pressure bleeder M/C cap I made-see other posts and Car Craft magazine.
Joe,
I measured the body height at the center of the wheels/tire to the body lip = 30" +-1/2" The checked from the kwiklift deck(ground level) to the bottom of the frame= 8.5" I think the AIM said 7.90" so if that's true I need to drop it about 1/2"-1"?
I have 4" from the top of the tire to the rear lip. what did you end up with? and where did you find the 8.5" bolts? Vette Brakes has the 8" and 10" but were very insistent that I use only the 8" :confused:
Thank you gentlemen,
Gary
New problem is a brake line leak at the right rear brass block,it's seeping. I'm not sure yet from the cross over line nut or the new rubber hose. I had to open th esystem anyway because the caliper lines are right over the spring link bolt hole in the rear of the T arm. :rolleyes:
It will give me a chance to try the pressure bleeder M/C cap I made-see other posts and Car Craft magazine.
Joe,
I measured the body height at the center of the wheels/tire to the body lip = 30" +-1/2" The checked from the kwiklift deck(ground level) to the bottom of the frame= 8.5" I think the AIM said 7.90" so if that's true I need to drop it about 1/2"-1"?
I have 4" from the top of the tire to the rear lip. what did you end up with? and where did you find the 8.5" bolts? Vette Brakes has the 8" and 10" but were very insistent that I use only the 8" :confused:
Thank you gentlemen,
Gary
