Naw, I was just thinking if I smacked a valve or holed a piston, broke a ring or something along those lines I would be able to change out a piston. Pressed pins it will be then.

Have to say I am leaning towards the internal balance as well, especially since it's a two bolt main block.

 

I hot rodded my original L-82 in stages over the years with a auto tranny. The final stage was doing 7200 rpm and doing consitant low 12's with slicks Then it croaked. I went to 383 because it took to long aquire a 396 stroker high end 3.875 42 pound crank. I still have the motor in a box as a spare I did some 11.70's and I had a 427 small block with another solid roller and changed it out

 

If you're talking about Eagle rods and cranks, their HQ is located about 30 minutes from me, just south of Memphis.

 

a c2 guy, claysmoker, is at 5000 ft. his 383 is 11:1 8.4 dcr (would be 9.13 dcr at sea level). Runs great on 91, no problems.
he wants to raise CR and wants to know how much more it can take.

 

That's pretty amazing. It would mean he is running 60* intake valve closing with a 12 cc piston and 58cc heads and .040 squish or something like that.
My combo almost exactly if I were to bore .030 over and stroke it. I may have to contact him. Thanks Matt.

Ok, looked up his info and he is running a XR280HR cam. which would give it a valve closing at 70* with a 11:1 SCR that would be a 8.45 DCR at sea level and a 7.45 at altitude. So the 8.45 is not adjusted for altitude. He also has an rpm air gap intake. The cam and the air gap would allow a higher SCR over my combo. 7.45 DCR would be close to what I would have with the 377 ci combo.

 

His problem is typos, 7.4 not 8.4 and the air-gap. He is building a 400 all because the air gap killed torque on his 383. This is a common "solution" here on CF. Weak low end, then go bigger.

It is speculation on my part that cam EGR helps stop pinging. Actually the reverse may be true. Or it may not matter at all with correct timing.

 

My understanding of those RPM intakes is that they are for higher RPM hence the name, so it stand to reason that low rpm would suffer. I figure the air gap feature would lower his intake charge temps and help with detonation if needed. Upping the displacement or getting a shorter cam would help torquewise I suppose as long as you keep compression in line, high enough to make up for the lost low end but low enough to avoid det.

I actually would like the performer air gap, but would not likely fit under the hood.

 

i don't have anything against raised runners. the weiand 8501 has them with a full divider, and it costs a little less.
The cut down divider is what butchers them, all u need is an open carb gasket if u want to try cam egr. Then u can adjust the amount, thin gasket for a little, thick for more.
BUT, as rpm's increase cam egr disappears; that is when it starts to pull hard. What do u do if it starts to ping? Reduce timing! Then it maybe runs crappy at low rpm? Reduce cam egr. Power comes back. Simple tuning.

 

This is the part many don't understand and never will, I made more TQ and HP across the entire RPM range buy changing from a dual plane RPM Air Gap to a single Vic Jr intake on a warmed over L48.

I have the chassis dyno printouts. This old wives tale will never go away just like you engine needs "back-pressure", yeah your exhaust needs to be restricted to make more power, incredible

 

Now seriously looking at the 377 version for this motor even though it will once again up the $$ spent. Figure "while I'm at it" Anyhow the stroker steel crank from eagle is rated for 400HP.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/es...make/chevrolet
Anyone think I am in any danger of exceeding this HP level with 180cc Dart SHP heads, .559"lift, a roller cam and a Edelbrock performer intake not reving above 5500 rpm? This would give me an SCR of 9.84 with a DCR of 7.64 at 3000 ft?

 

If you have a brand new block you can go 377 (4"bore, 3.750 stroke)
If you have a used block you will have to overbore. I really never see a pre 86 block clean up at less than 4.020 bore. that is why the 383 (4.030 bore, 3.750 stroke) is so common.

 

I would never buy an Eagle part again, brand new parts out of tolerance all the time, made in China with apparently no quality control. Buy a Scat 9000 nodular iron crank they live in the 500+HP range no problems they are finished machined in the US with better quality control.

 

I've measured these bores at least three times. None of the measurements are greater than 4.0005 or less than 3.9995 not on the same cyliner. the greatest variance was .0005 taper and .0005 out of round. I was sure I might be measuring wrong so i did it multiple times and always with similar result within .0005" or at most .001" each time. All of the bores fall well within the specs of .001 out of round or .002 for taper.
When I closely inspected the bores just prior to deciding to do a full rebuild, instead of the top end, I notice all the bores showed a glazed surface. I don't believe this engine was properly broke in when new and the bores quickly glazed which likely gave it less compression but may also have spared it some wear over the years. Just my guess.
I can't explain how a 70's era engine could exhibit so little wear on the cylinder bores. None had a ridge except #8 which had a very stiff wrist pin and probably caused the ridge. All the pistons slid right out through the top with little resistance. Even #8 came out without much trouble. Maybe the previous owners ran it rich and changed the oil religiously, I don't know. Every bearing was in well within spec when I plasti-gauged them, more evidence of a lightly used or well cared for engine.
Here is a pic of the bores before and after.
[IMG][/IMG]

Agreed the Eagle cranks are not up to the standard of the Scat crank but I need to maintain some kind of budget here and for a sub 400hp? engine they should be adequate I would think (hope).

 

I don't disagree with any well sorted out combo. gkull and wayne have paid their dues thru experience and lots of money
My combo works so well, i cancelled plans, in 1999, for a 383. Not lacking power in any respect for street use.
They should have the same respect for a strong 355 that i have for larger sorted out engines. My combo is a low budget build, $850 in 1999($1200-1400 upgrade today), it is hard to beat this much fun for so little money. ~385 HP was 200 stock.
.
i agree Scat crank gets great reviews. how much more is it?

 

Cheapest Scat internal balance crank.
http://www.summitracing.com/search/m...t%20crankshaft

That's a $354 difference.

 

why are you even looking at internal balance for a budget build?
Dorman 400 balancer 43.99.

is the ext. bal scat 3.75 still $180?

Flywheel ~$77-99

 

Ok for some reason when using summit site I have to search scat 9000 cranks to get them to show up.
this is much more reasonable.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...make/chevrolet

 

Ok for some reason when using summit site I have to search scat 9000 cranks to get them to show up.
this is much more reasonable.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sc...make/chevrolet

Kind of makes a big deal about it being lightweight, is this going to be a problem with balancing it?

 

This is the combo of parts for bottom end. Let me know what you think.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-935010

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-2570020

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb135-std

These pistons give me the previously mentioned CR's.
It'll be $200 just to balance the whole works
Can't find a internally balanced assembly with 18cc pistons.

 

2 out of 3 is getting there. I have seen more than enough problems with KB pistons, go with coated or even uncoated SpeedPro pistons and yes building a motor costs money but you saved a ton of money on these parts that will be more than enough for the level of HP you are shooting for, don't stop now and get it all balanced.