Engine guys. Your thoughts on this engine rebuild
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 54
From: Grand Rapids Michigan
Engine guys. Your thoughts on this engine rebuild
Let me say first...I am NOT an engine guy. My 71 4-speed 3.70 rear has a 69 350-350 engine block with forged steel crank that needs rebuilt. It is currently .030 over. Heads are not original and will be replaced. Here is a suggestion from the builder. I want a dependable (quick) cruiser not a 1/4 mile racer and will be rebuilding the rear with 3.36 or 3.08 gears. I will retain the Edelbrock intake and carb and stock exhaust manifolds.
Here's what I get from the engine numbers.
Engine casting 3932386 (350-350 early L-46)
Pad# V0927HW (Flint Engine, Sept 27, 1969 Hi-Perf Manual)
Bores to .040 oversize, 6 inch long connecting rods, 9:1 compression, hyperutectic pistons, and new iron heads. Parts to be used would be;
Clevite 77 rod and main bearings
Durabound cam bearings
Keith Black #KB112 +.040 pistons
Moly face performance rings
Eagle SIR6000BBLW rods with bushed small end
Dart Iron Eagle heads with 180cc intake runners, 72cc chambers, 2.02 intake valves, 1.600 exaust valves
Melling M55HV hi volume oil pump
Engine Pro double roller timing chain and gear set, with locking bolt retainer
Hydralic lifter camshaft with 214 deg Intake duration, 224 deg exaust duration, .443 int. lift, .465 ext lift
Brass freeze plugs
Thanks,
Mike
Here's what I get from the engine numbers.
Engine casting 3932386 (350-350 early L-46)
Pad# V0927HW (Flint Engine, Sept 27, 1969 Hi-Perf Manual)
Bores to .040 oversize, 6 inch long connecting rods, 9:1 compression, hyperutectic pistons, and new iron heads. Parts to be used would be;
Clevite 77 rod and main bearings
Durabound cam bearings
Keith Black #KB112 +.040 pistons
Moly face performance rings
Eagle SIR6000BBLW rods with bushed small end
Dart Iron Eagle heads with 180cc intake runners, 72cc chambers, 2.02 intake valves, 1.600 exaust valves
Melling M55HV hi volume oil pump
Engine Pro double roller timing chain and gear set, with locking bolt retainer
Hydralic lifter camshaft with 214 deg Intake duration, 224 deg exaust duration, .443 int. lift, .465 ext lift
Brass freeze plugs
Thanks,
Mike
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 15,065
Likes: 79
From: central FL, near the beach.
since u'r not an engine guy, u are mostly at the mercy of the builder. He is not going to warranty it, if u get too "smart".
So i'd ask him "how much more for a 3.75 stroker crank"
if the price is right, go 3.08 rear.
So i'd ask him "how much more for a 3.75 stroker crank"
if the price is right, go 3.08 rear.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Let me say first...I am NOT an engine guy. My 71 4-speed 3.70 rear has a 69 350-350 engine block with forged steel crank that needs rebuilt. It is currently .030 over. Heads are not original and will be replaced. Here is a suggestion from the builder. I want a dependable (quick) cruiser not a 1/4 mile racer and will be rebuilding the rear with 3.36 or 3.08 gears. I will retain the Edelbrock intake and carb and stock exhaust manifolds.
Here's what I get from the engine numbers.
Engine casting 3932386 (350-350 early L-46)
Pad# V0927HW (Flint Engine, Sept 27, 1969 Hi-Perf Manual)
Bores to .040 oversize, 6 inch long connecting rods, 9:1 compression, hyperutectic pistons, and new iron heads. Parts to be used would be;
Clevite 77 rod and main bearings
Durabound cam bearings
Keith Black #KB112 +.040 pistons
Moly face performance rings
Eagle SIR6000BBLW rods with bushed small end
Dart Iron Eagle heads with 180cc intake runners, 72cc chambers, 2.02 intake valves, 1.600 exaust valves
Melling M55HV hi volume oil pump
Engine Pro double roller timing chain and gear set, with locking bolt retainer
Hydralic lifter camshaft with 214 deg Intake duration, 224 deg exaust duration, .443 int. lift, .465 ext lift
Brass freeze plugs
Thanks,
Mike
Here's what I get from the engine numbers.
Engine casting 3932386 (350-350 early L-46)
Pad# V0927HW (Flint Engine, Sept 27, 1969 Hi-Perf Manual)
Bores to .040 oversize, 6 inch long connecting rods, 9:1 compression, hyperutectic pistons, and new iron heads. Parts to be used would be;
Clevite 77 rod and main bearings
Durabound cam bearings
Keith Black #KB112 +.040 pistons
Moly face performance rings
Eagle SIR6000BBLW rods with bushed small end
Dart Iron Eagle heads with 180cc intake runners, 72cc chambers, 2.02 intake valves, 1.600 exaust valves
Melling M55HV hi volume oil pump
Engine Pro double roller timing chain and gear set, with locking bolt retainer
Hydralic lifter camshaft with 214 deg Intake duration, 224 deg exaust duration, .443 int. lift, .465 ext lift
Brass freeze plugs
Thanks,
Mike
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
If the non-stock rod length & comp height setup costs extra, going that route is a waste of money for no more than you appear to be after. IMHO no hyd cammed mill revs high enough to noticeably benefit from such exotica (this from a guy who is building a long rod 427). Rather, putting that money towards 4032 pistons in lieu of hypers would be money better spent. I'd step CR up to ~9.5:1 true, which will improve low-end torque and likely economy. Built to proper clearances, you shouldn't need a HV or HP oil pump; as long as you have a reliable 10 psi per 1000 RPM, you'll be fine. Not 100% sure if that crank is surface hardened, but if so you should be aware that anything much more than a micro-polish may require a fresh treatment to restore it. And, just say NO to any Chinese timing set. My $.02
.
.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Jan 3, 2013 at 07:39 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 818
Likes: 0
From: coon rapids mn
consider a 383 stroker .competition products sells 383 rotating assemblies starting at $900 and up.look at comp cam ex268,makes great torque and would work great with those good heads you plan on using.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 111
From: St Louis MO
I agree with Motorhead and Skunk - if the motor is built right, you won't need a high volume oil pump - the stock capacity is fine and uses less HP to turn.
Also, why bother with 6" rods - you'll have better torque at low-to-mid range rpm with the stock rods (5.7") which give a nice 1.64 rod-to-stroke ratio.
I'd vote for Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons too since I'm not a fan of the large top ring gap with the KB pistons:
Also, why bother with 6" rods - you'll have better torque at low-to-mid range rpm with the stock rods (5.7") which give a nice 1.64 rod-to-stroke ratio.
I'd vote for Speed Pro hypereutectic pistons too since I'm not a fan of the large top ring gap with the KB pistons:
Last edited by larrywalk; Jan 4, 2013 at 02:21 PM. Reason: Edited sentence structure for better clarity.
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
If your crank needs more than polishing I would look at an internally balance Scat 9000 crank if that's what there called these days any they are good cranks and you can use the inexpensive P type Clevite 77 bearings. I agree with 5.7" Sir or Scat rods, I made 550HP with this combination in a dependable 406ci street motor with the SpeedPro hyper pistons.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
'69 blocks have a lot of meat around the bores.
Don't be surprized if u can bore that early block to 0.060".
I read u want to keep the forged 350 crank so that leaves u with less than 360 c.i.. With those highway gears i think u should stay with less than 270 degrees full duration cam - which is close to what u listed but try a 108 or 110 lobe separation angle for optimum power. No need for 6" rods - they make power at higher rpm - higher than what your cam will run at. Sorry i don't know a thing 'bout Iron Eagle heads but read they are getting very popular. Everything else reads good to go.
BTW i still have my original 3.23 GM gear set in the box covered with grease. Let me know if your intersted, but shipping to michigan may not be cheap.
Good luck,
cardo0
I read u want to keep the forged 350 crank so that leaves u with less than 360 c.i.. With those highway gears i think u should stay with less than 270 degrees full duration cam - which is close to what u listed but try a 108 or 110 lobe separation angle for optimum power. No need for 6" rods - they make power at higher rpm - higher than what your cam will run at. Sorry i don't know a thing 'bout Iron Eagle heads but read they are getting very popular. Everything else reads good to go.BTW i still have my original 3.23 GM gear set in the box covered with grease. Let me know if your intersted, but shipping to michigan may not be cheap.
Good luck,
cardo0
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 54
From: Grand Rapids Michigan
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,084
Likes: 54
From: Grand Rapids Michigan
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,721
Likes: 108
From: Canada
I would want to make sure where the components were sourced from. Many on this forum have warned us of inexpensive parts which came from China and were junk. $3800 for a 383 striker is an excellent price if all parts are made in America (Can or US). There is a co. sales rep who posts on the forum hopefully he will chime in as to where the parts are sourced and not just pm for questions.
