My 72 with tilt/tele steering column has a bit of a "wiggle" in the column when the tilt/tele function is locked. I thought this was normal since it has been this way since I bought it 20 months ago. I can take the top and bottom of the steering wheel and move it up and down about one inch. I just drove my friend's 73 with T/T and his doesn't move at all.

What is the problem; how difficult is it to fix; and should I wait until fall or winter?
Thanks,
Gary

 

Your description sounds like the following.

The Corvette T&T column has an annoying problem. There are four screws that hold the column head to the tubular part of the steering column. They tend to loosen with time. The column has to be disassembled in order to gain access to the four screws so that they can be loctited and retorqued in place.

The good news is that the column can be repaired without having to pull it out of the car.

I have a set of written instructions along with sketches that can be a big help in performing the above procedure. You need to go to: http://www.corvettefaq.com and look under Steering. The papers are entitled:
Tilt & Telescoping Blowup Pic
Tilt & Telescoping Disassembly Instructions
Tilt & Telescoping Disassembly Pics 1, 2, & 3

 

Jim, timely info as I too have the same problem, thanks for the great articles and diagrams.....

 

I just did the same thing on my '71. PAY ATTENTION TO THE NOTES!! I didn't and messed up a few times. I sent the lower bearings flying. I hooked up the ignition wrong the first time, I still have an upsidedown corvette emblem....... The list goes on but the wiggle is gone.

 

I just rebuilt my TT column from front to back, repainted and installed in my 71' this winter. I'm glad to know that this is a potential problem, so I can be on the lookout for it.

I wish I had known about those screws loosening - maybe I could have put some lock tite on them...

 

Any time you guys find a problem when you are using my notes and/or sketches to rebuild or rework steering components, I would appreciate your feedback so that I can make the notes clearer or more accurate. Or maybe I just need to describe things more fully.

A lot of times, I am so familiar with the steering parts that I don't appreciate someone elses problem in trying to understand my descriptions.

 

Just used Jim's instructions on the weekend to fix this very problem and they were great. Thanks Jim for such a terrific site.

 

Thanks Jim. I was wondering if you would chime in on this one. Looks like I have a nice afternoon task.
Gary

 

Jim, the guy that built/designed that TT column is a genius, deranged, but a genius just the same, only one thing I wish was done,....in production or at least replacement parts, make the keeper for the upper upper, and lower upper bearings out of freaking ALUMINUM instead of fall apart plastic....;-)))
fishing those damn ***** out of the bottom of neather hell is hard to do....

I can see the engineering chief up there in confrence now, showing this very Opaque overhead projection of what they wanted....and saying we need it to move in and out 4" worth, up and down for 45* some odd worth, and looking at the crowd for volunteers....now add the key cylinder, anti theft interlocks, wheel locks, signal switches, cruise controll switches, primary electricals, and we need it to get into every car from Corvette to Caddy......with interchangeable steering wheels to suit the style, now add on it HAS to look pretty for the ladies....

OH and lest we NOT forget, Nader needs it to collapse in a wreck, the gov't needs it to fall apart just nice, and.....
then the bean counters want it out the door for 50 cents a copy, max cost....

OH and while we are at it, we need custom looking horn buttons....

all that and a bowl of soup too!!!!

GENE :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :confused: :D :D :cheers: :jester :jester


[Modified by mrvette, 1:11 PM 6/16/2002]


[Modified by mrvette, 1:15 PM 6/16/2002]

 

Gene,
You sure hit it on the head!!! But you forgot to include off-lock/park interlock, hazard warning switch, turn signal canceling cam, key buzzer switch, headlamp dimmer switch, ignition switch, brake/transmission interlock mechanism, windshield wiper/washer pulse switch, PASS key wiring, PRNDL adjuster assembly, wiring for steering wheel controls, inflatable restraint coil wiring, and horn ground circuit. All this for something somewhat more than 50 cents.

 

HAHAHAHA...Jim, and these chip artists think THEY have it rough....they just have NO idea.....

BTW, top offer 60 cents....

GENE

 

OK guys, now the tough part. I downloaded Jim's descriptions but I have a hangup and you guys that just did this can hopefully help me out.

I have the housing undone, the pivot pins out, and the housing pivoted up but it hasn't released from the rack(?). I have a pot metal shoe with teeth that is meshed with an off-white plastic wheel with teeth and these are still engage with the head of the housing rotated fully up. What am I missing? I have read the instructions three times and I don't see how this is going to unmesh and allow me to remove the housing. Any help here?
Thanks,
Gayr

 

I'm not sure what the shoe and teeth are exactly. Unless they are the center ball joint in which case they won't come out until the head comes off.
All I did was to reattach the pivot lever and tried a few diferent positions until the head slid off. I can't remenber what the hell it does, but there is a piece that comes up and slides into a slot that MAY hold up the removal a little. It's shown in the following pics. I'm sure Jim will be by to help if it still won't come off!





[Modified by lbell101, 1:09 PM 6/17/2002]

 

I had to do the same thing with the pivot lever. I think Jim's instructions mention to do so and for me, it was all the way up before it released.

Good luck