Lets talk Paint
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Savannah Georgia
Lets talk Paint
Like most every one else out there i almost in over my head on a restoration. At the moment i have a very heavily corroded 77 that exploded all over my garage.
On most parts it is just surface rust so i have been slowly cleaning it all off with wire brushes and wire wheels for the drill. What is the best paint to use these parts once they are cleaned off to prevent this from happening in the future? The parts i am going to be painting will range from random brackets to the whole chassis.
Thanks.
On most parts it is just surface rust so i have been slowly cleaning it all off with wire brushes and wire wheels for the drill. What is the best paint to use these parts once they are cleaned off to prevent this from happening in the future? The parts i am going to be painting will range from random brackets to the whole chassis.
Thanks.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
The BEST paint in a general sense would be the sort that you spray out of a paint gun rather than rattle-can type. If you don't want to go through the hassle of hooking up paint guns, etc. though I would avoid enamel-based paints as they are not compatible with anything else. You can shoot enamel over lacquer primers but not vice versa, so I would avoid things like Rustoleum. SEM makes a number of high quality spray can paints, but polyurethane-based catalyzed products of the sort that you buy from an automotive paint vendor and shoot from a paint gun are by far better than any rattle-can products.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,688
Likes: 41
From: Palm Harbor, Florida
The BEST paint in a general sense would be the sort that you spray out of a paint gun rather than rattle-can type. If you don't want to go through the hassle of hooking up paint guns, etc. though I would avoid enamel-based paints as they are not compatible with anything else. You can shoot enamel over lacquer primers but not vice versa, so I would avoid things like Rustoleum. SEM makes a number of high quality spray can paints, but polyurethane-based catalyzed products of the sort that you buy from an automotive paint vendor and shoot from a paint gun are by far better than any rattle-can products.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 14
From: Airdrie Alberta
I sandblasted everything then gave 2 coats DP90 Epoxy primer followed by a couple of finish coats of satin black, or cast grey depending on the component. Finished up by oil spraying inside my frame rails and crossmembers.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 5,943
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From: Southern NH
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,428
Likes: 5
From: Japan
Oledave, sorry if that came out looking like I was 'stepping on' what you posted. I was actually typing mine at the same time you were typing yours, so it wasn't intentional. Rustoleum IS quality stuff, but there is the little incompatibility thing, and I have also noticed that gas eats right through it...fine for lawn furniture but not so good for a car. Your car DOES look good, BTW!
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,968
Likes: 44
From: East TN
Most people use POR 15. That's what I used on my birdcage. The chassis was acid dipped and powdercoated. The suspension, cossmembers, rad. support were all also powdercoated. If you use POR 15, topcoat any areas that will get sunlight, it has no UV protection.
Drifting
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,968
Likes: 44
From: East TN
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Savannah Georgia
Thank you for all the advice.
I do have a sprayer and a home made booth (tarp and PVC tent i have been using for sand blasting. I have heard a lot abought the POR 15 and all of it has been good. Will probably end up doing the frame with a higher quality paint like the POR 15 and a lot of the little stuff with a cheaper rustoleum just to keep cost down.
On a side note I do like the look of the satin finish better but wouldn't the be harder to keep clean than the gloss? Haven't done much with metal paint just thinking of house paint, satin is always harder to keep clean than gloss. I am by no means going to have a show car and not a daily driver just want it to stay clean since I'm going to have a couple of years of work into it.
I do have a sprayer and a home made booth (tarp and PVC tent i have been using for sand blasting. I have heard a lot abought the POR 15 and all of it has been good. Will probably end up doing the frame with a higher quality paint like the POR 15 and a lot of the little stuff with a cheaper rustoleum just to keep cost down.
On a side note I do like the look of the satin finish better but wouldn't the be harder to keep clean than the gloss? Haven't done much with metal paint just thinking of house paint, satin is always harder to keep clean than gloss. I am by no means going to have a show car and not a daily driver just want it to stay clean since I'm going to have a couple of years of work into it.
