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Since I am so smart I tugged on the crankcase vent tube and popped the inner grommit free. So it looks like now is the time to replace the leaky vlave cover gaskets.
What is the proper torque for the cover bolts? It is an L48 with stock painted steel covers.
Is there any real advantage to synthetic vs. cork gaskets?
Thanks!
Jim
I believe they are like 90 inch pounds or something to that effect. Just take a 1/4" drive ratchet and snug them down....no need to torque them down you'll distort the gasket and the valve cover which will cause leaks. Leave them relatively loose and if she leaks when you fire it up snug them down accordingly. Some black RTV sealant around the inside of the cork valve cover gaskets helps them last longer. Applying the RTV around the inside of the gaskets helps keep oil from absorbing into them.
*EDIT*
Synthetic gaskets are nice but expensive. I have a set of Moroso rubber valve cover gaskets on the big block and they seal very nicely. The added advantage is that you can use them over and over again....which is especially nice with a solid lifter cam.
Ditto what bence said. The other nice thing about rubber gaskets is that many have a grommet at each hole that stops you from overtightening them. I think I got mine from Summit for around $20 or so.
Thanks for the replies! I got cork gaskets :)
But now there is another problem. I feared that I would find sludge, and I did. I mean tons, scoop it out with a spoon sludge. Well, a baby spoon, in some places it is 1/8"+ deep. Along with the old gaskets and grommits being completley brittle.
Should I not disturb the sludge and pray? Try to clean and hope I don't make things worse?
There is a gradation going on here. At one end is 'what you don't know can't hurt you' and at the other is 'the truth will set you free'. I am somewhere in the middle. :cry :lol: