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My wiper motor will not work powered it up on the bench went direct 12v it has three wires into the motor. The resistor checks out, is there any other way to test this looks like it is not able to be disassembled.
So I looking for a rebuild or used motor:
Part # 4939300
Nice write up on your site!!
Wiper cover door is not going up, if I open cover up manually switch closed the wipers do not turn on. I will be doing a little more trouble shooting on it. My washer solenoid is shot "corroded" I have not found a replacement.
The solenoid blocks vacuum to the wiper door relay and when this happens the door opens. If the electrical portion of this is not working that will create more issues for you. When you turn the motor on the brown wire will pick up voltage and power up the solenoid.
I have the motor working but the wiper door is not opening. The hoses were replaced several years ago actuator is working, but wondering where is the solenoid for the door is located and what activates it?
Thanks
I am having an issue with a decrease in Vacuum I get 12 at the inlet of the check valve an Vacuum reading of 2 at the port that goes to the headlamp override switch.
What should I be seeing at each outlet of the inlet valve?
If I disconnect the wiper circuit and block the hose my headlamps open slowly but will not close.
I used a smoke tester to look for leaks when attached to the head lamp and door main vacuum feed the smoke comes out of the base of the relay valves.
My wiper override lamp is on even with the key out!
The only thing I did was remove the motor to test it!
I found a tear in the wiper door actuator the rear seal that goes over the arm is ripped. I am assuming this seals the canister is this part available?
I found a tear in the wiper door actuator the rear seal that goes over the arm is ripped. I am assuming this seals the canister is this part available?
The outer accordion shaped seal, is just a dust cover, and sells for about $15. The inner seal on the shaft, shaped like a witch's hat, seals the canister itself. The inner seal is about $12 from most vendors.
I isolated the headlamp section and applied a vacuum pump to the main feed and used a miti-vac to add or release vacuum on the relay, it seems to work. I assume looking at the diagram that the white stripped line that goes to the over ride switch is as it shown, IE connects to the top of the switch.
If I am reading this correctly the Vacuum source is reversed by either the headlamp switch or wiper switch depending on the position. Taken this further the override switch forces the vacuum to act as direct source to the open position is this correct?
It seems that a vacuum leak in any portion of this system will effect the engine and create a small to large leak effecting idle.
How long should the vacuum hold in any of the system activators?
I still need to understand the override lamp circuit my lamp is on all the time and is draining my battery.
The vacuum is not reversed... the relay's default to open when they don't have vacuum on the control hose. (small one)
The function is controlled by blocking and un-blocking vacuum.
Your lamp is on huh.. Is the over-ride switch turned open?
let me find something and post in on the vacuum systems.. 1 sec.
This may help you understand how the system works... this is the headlamp system but some parts like the relay and the over-ride switches test the same.
I was able to get the lamp off I opened the wiper door and cycled the wipers apparently were not parked after I reinstalled it.
The other issue is the vacuum door actuator, the boot that covers the rod is torn, someone posted it was just a dust shield. If I cover the tear it works so it seems it need to be sealed via the boot. I do not see one on your site but need to purchase one. Am I wrong, with the boot off I can see into the canister so it seems this is a seal.
I need to clarify the dust boot was never installed on my set-up.
The witches hat seal that was mentioned is not for my year syas 68 late. My 68 is earlyand has a long very flexible rubber seal. I have not been able to find this on any site is 68 an odd year?.
68 and early 69 used this as the actuator. If the rubber inside that your can.. right at the end you see (you cant see the rubber) is bad... you need a new actuator.
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