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I was browsing the Vansteel website and saw the section titled "removal instructions". I read through it and it appears to say I can remove the rotors and calipers and e-brake. Then I can remove the 4 nuts and pull the assembly from the trailing arm (?)...I want to take the assemblies to a pro shop and have the wheel bearings replaced, so it would be nice if it's that simple to remove without removing the trailing arms.. What am I missing here? I hear different things so just trying to sort it out. I was told that the trailing arms come right out and I've seen the front bushing area. On the other hand, I have read and heard that it is a nightmare (why?). I do understand that I'll need an alignment afterward. My aim is to have a nice rear end (ok..I get the pun)...I see lots of bushings on the links and such. I know the t/a bushing needs to be pressed on but are the others simple or do they all need to be pressed? I have a terrible case of the "while I'm at it"s....
Last edited by Mario Barrios; Jan 28, 2013 at 06:44 PM.
I recently replaced my rear bearings and did not remove the trailing arms. Be sure the shop that does the bearing work knows how to space the bearings on the spindles correctly.
I was browsing the Vansteel website and saw the section titled "removal instructions". I read through it and it appears to say I can remove the rotors and calipers and e-brake. Then I can remove the 4 nuts and pull the assembly from the trailing arm (?)...I want to take the assemblies to a pro shop and have the wheel bearings replaced, so it would be nice if it's that simple to remove without removing the trailing arms.. What am I missing here? I hear different things so just trying to sort it out. I was told that the trailing arms come right out and I've seen the front bushing area. On the other hand, I have read and heard that it is a nightmare (why?). I do understand that I'll need an alignment afterward. My aim is to have a nice rear end (ok..I get the pun)...I see lots of bushings on the links and such. I know the t/a bushing needs to be pressed on but are the others simple or do they all need to be pressed? I have a terrible case of the "while I'm at it"s....
I was able to remove the bearing assemblies from my trailing arms (one bearing assembly at a time... they did not fail together). on-car and took them to Van Steel for rebuilding when I lived in Tampa Bay. Great work. They installed the stainless e-brake hardware during the rebuild.
I was able to remove the bearing assemblies from my trailing arms (one bearing assembly at a time... they did not fail together). on-car and took them to Van Steel for rebuilding when I lived in Tampa Bay. Great work. They installed the stainless e-brake hardware during the rebuild.
Curious, how did you bolt the bearing assembly to the TA with the parking brake hardware installed?
I was browsing the Vansteel website and saw the section titled "removal instructions". I read through it and it appears to say I can remove the rotors and calipers and e-brake. Then I can remove the 4 nuts and pull the assembly from the trailing arm (?)...I want to take the assemblies to a pro shop and have the wheel bearings replaced, so it would be nice if it's that simple to remove without removing the trailing arms.. What am I missing here? I hear different things so just trying to sort it out. I was told that the trailing arms come right out and I've seen the front bushing area. On the other hand, I have read and heard that it is a nightmare (why?). I do understand that I'll need an alignment afterward. My aim is to have a nice rear end (ok..I get the pun)...I see lots of bushings on the links and such. I know the t/a bushing needs to be pressed on but are the others simple or do they all need to be pressed? I have a terrible case of the "while I'm at it"s....
You also have to drop the outboard side of the half-shaft - but you would have figured that out. The TA bolts and alignment shims are sometimes rusted in place and need to be cut with a sawz-all... that can be nightmarish. As far as I know all TA bushings are pressed. If your TA comes off easy and the alignment shims are in good shape, you can, in theory, put them back in the same place without doing an alignment. Don't drive to the alignment shop without the TA shimmed up in some manner.
Hmmm.good stuff guys....so what I figure is that the nightmare comes if the bolt through the front bushing is tough. Hmmmm...I suppose I could try loosening it and if it gives then I go the rest of the way. I have a California car so rust has not been bad at all.
So I took 5 minutes out of my day,,,Squirted some wd40 on the front trailing arm bolt and the nut came off real easy. Hmmmmm..used a socket extension and a hammer and the bolt started to ease out just as easily. I stopped 'cause I only had the 5 minutes...my plan is now to pull the ta's and have the bearings replaced, change all my bushings and try to clean up the underneath. Only trouble is finding time to work on it. So far that's been the hardest part.
OK Now it looks like I'll be rebuilding the rear suspension...
Originally Posted by CA-Legal-Vette
Good news! That'll save you lots of work.
Are you planning on doing the rebuild yourself or sending it out?
Yes, I am encouraged...I bought this car on Christmas Eve and haven't driven it yet. In fact, I've never driven a corvette and I'm sure looking forward to it. I started out just to do the brakes but the ebrake was rotted and one thing has led to another. Car has 50k on it and was sitting since 97. So I'm worried about the bearings even though I have no other indication that they are bad. I drilled the rotor rivets so I'm sure the grease is original. Also, I want to put poly bushings on it.
I am going to take the bearing assemblies to a pro and have the TAs bead blasted and painted. Really bending the budget here...going shopping for bushings etc..