400 sbc
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Glendon Alberta
400 sbc
I've got a 400 I built about 15 years ago, bored .60 over, factory 882 heads, deck was planed, flat top pistons, and a truck cam, flat tappet.
I had it in an 83 4x4, and it hauled ****. Now, it's only got about 15000 miles on it, and hasn't been fired in over 10 yrs. I can crank it by hand, I'm just looking for pointer on what I should do before I fire it.
I wanna get her running and use it in my vette while I build up my 350.
Should I swap the cam before I do the engine swap, or leave it as is?
I don't really wanna spend cash on this one, as it would only prolong my 350 build. But, I could spring a few bucks for a cam if its a good idea.
I really have no idea what's in it now, I just remember at the time it was specified for the 4x4 truck.
Thanks fellas!
I had it in an 83 4x4, and it hauled ****. Now, it's only got about 15000 miles on it, and hasn't been fired in over 10 yrs. I can crank it by hand, I'm just looking for pointer on what I should do before I fire it.
I wanna get her running and use it in my vette while I build up my 350.
Should I swap the cam before I do the engine swap, or leave it as is?
I don't really wanna spend cash on this one, as it would only prolong my 350 build. But, I could spring a few bucks for a cam if its a good idea.
I really have no idea what's in it now, I just remember at the time it was specified for the 4x4 truck.
Thanks fellas!
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Pop the plugs and soak them with WD40 and prime the oil pump after you change the oil. 50/50 chance you'll have a flat lifter...after 10 years but I've seen longer firer up with no problems....
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
Prime and go it should be fine. pull the lifters and dump some oil on min.
No sense in adding more cam with those heads..besides you said it ran good. HAve your fun/save for the next build
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Glendon Alberta
Throw wd into the cylinder?
Prime the oil pump.... Long screw driver and a drill into distributor hole? How long should I prime for?
Prime the oil pump.... Long screw driver and a drill into distributor hole? How long should I prime for?
Last edited by vettezobsezzed; Jan 30, 2013 at 03:20 PM. Reason: Autocorrect
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Long screwdriver won't work. Need the priming tool to seal off the internal oil passages at the lower part of the distributor. Auto Zone has them in the Loaner tool program.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,504
Likes: 139
From: Butler Pa
Personally, I'd change the oil, put the motor in the car, pull the plugs out and crank it with the starter until oil pressure comes up. Put the plugs back in and fire it up.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Sounds like a good plan. I would remove the plugs, spray the WD40 in each cylinder the day before, then change the oil, crank it until oil pressure is up, reinstall the plugs and fire it up. Pretty common for a ring to stick after sitting 10 years.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,928
Likes: 841
From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
if your vette is newer than say a 73, i wouldn't waste my time on this original engine stuff. if its an older car like an LT-1 or L-88 or something then it maters a lot. most of this original engine stuff is way overblown. as for the cam, try it like it is and see how it runs in the car ,then decide what you want to do. i suspect if it moved a truck well the vette should too.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 4
From: Concord Calif
if your vette is newer than say a 73, i wouldn't waste my time on this original engine stuff. if its an older car like an LT-1 or L-88 or something then it maters a lot. most of this original engine stuff is way overblown. as for the cam, try it like it is and see how it runs in the car ,then decide what you want to do. i suspect if it moved a truck well the vette should too.
You maybe right about the value of numbers matching after 73. But if people had your attitude a few years ago with the 68/73 there would be a lot less numbers cars now! besides the fake ones that is!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 6,928
Likes: 841
From: melbourne florida
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
when i bought a 68 L-88 in 1974 it was already an important car as were the LT-1 cars and all big blocks, most people knew those cars were special then. they were special because of the performance not rarity. performance took a dive after 1970 none after that could match the performance of the early cars. and they built a lot of them too. a 73 base engine car with just about any other engine is an upgrade to me. if you want a numbers matching car save your money for an earlier more desirable car. not a car someone would swap out the engine at the first opportunity.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 4
From: Concord Calif
People swapped out those big blocks all the time in the day even the dealers did it for people wanting a different engine that was not available to them and some under warranty's also. People had engines rebuilt all the time and replaced blocks for lots of reasons, the numbers meant nothing back then at all, we only think people thought that way back them. Cars like the LT1's are cool today but were nothing when new as the numbers sold can attest to. People had 390 HP cars that could not get out of their own way and wanted 4 bolt blocks to build something with real power, forget the numbers matching. They didn't care for the most part and the saying that a given year car now means not much to the world is proof of that. There are way more numbers matching car now then there was 15 years ago!! But people will believe what they want today and then change that later when it suits them, so be it.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Glendon Alberta
Derail.....
Was just curious about start up procedure for an engine that sat for 10 years. And a little input about performance. It's not an NCrs build or anything. Just not parking the car for 5 yrs to do a resto.thanks
Was just curious about start up procedure for an engine that sat for 10 years. And a little input about performance. It's not an NCrs build or anything. Just not parking the car for 5 yrs to do a resto.thanks
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 1,970
Likes: 45
From: Cameron Park CA
People swapped out those big blocks all the time in the day even the dealers did it for people wanting a different engine that was not available to them and some under warranty's also. People had engines rebuilt all the time and replaced blocks for lots of reasons, the numbers meant nothing back then at all, we only think people thought that way back them. Cars like the LT1's are cool today but were nothing when new as the numbers sold can attest to. People had 390 HP cars that could not get out of their own way and wanted 4 bolt blocks to build something with real power, forget the numbers matching. They didn't care for the most part and the saying that a given year car now means not much to the world is proof of that. There are way more numbers matching car now then there was 15 years ago!! But people will believe what they want today and then change that later when it suits them, so be it.
Not quite on the same scale, but in about 1971 my '69 Corvette needed a new water pump. It was replaced under warranty: of course it was not a "correct" water pump, it had a plug in the threaded hole or port at the top of the pump that could be used for a heater hose or a bypass. I had no idea it wasn't the "correct" pump and gladly signed off the work order, and smiled as I drove off with my "free" installed water pump. To GM it was a correct water pump because it fit correctly and functioned properly. We had no idea back then.
Pete
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Glendon Alberta
400
Still staring at this and haven't acted yet. I really want to buy a set of aluminum heads. If I take them and have the steam holes drilled... Does that "marry" them to this engine, or can I move them to a 350 down the road?
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
Likes: 15
From: Oxford Ohio
I'd put something in the cylinders to lube the cylinder walls. Other than WD40. As has been said on here many times, WD 40 has no lubricating properties. Just some motor oil should work. Turn it over by hand, bring up the oil circulation with a primer saft ( Jegs or Summit)have them for cheap, then fire it up. It may have to idle for a while to get the lifters working, but you'll find out what's going on internally.
If it doesn't smooth out you'll have to start taking things off to see what shape things are in, but you'd have to do that anyway.
If it doesn't smooth out you'll have to start taking things off to see what shape things are in, but you'd have to do that anyway.