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Trying to decide if I want to keep the Edelbrock 110 GPH mechanical fuel pump or switch to electric pump.
I have a bbc in my 76 vette that makes about 540 hp.
I just took motor out to switch from solid roller to hydraulic roller. Fuel pump rod (comp Cam Rod with soft bronze or brass tip) soft end was mushroomed. Motor has about 5000 miles and 70 1/4 mile passes. I was surprised to see it mushroomed. Is that common?
If I would have kept driving it might have had a problem to figure out and fix.
I have read so many different opinions about electric pumps (good and bad, noisy, break often, short life, never had a problem).
that mushroomed tip is the issue - good thing you caught it before the motor ran lean.
I like mechanical whenever possible... with that said (and especially because it wouldn't be that hard to do) if I had to, I would run a submerged pump and a bypass regulator. More likely, I'd use one from a stock, GM vehicle and submerge it in your tank - they last longer because they run cooler.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
It may be seen as swimming upstream, or as an exception to "the rule", but I've NEVER had a problem with an electric fuel pump on a high-perf application (street, strip or road course), which is something I just can't say about mechanicals. Holley 110 GPH Blue here. My $.02
Sadly my new 502 had not the possibility to mount a mechanical pump. I want to keep the engine as simple as possible. Had my mech pump some years at the 454 without problems.
And now i have this noisy thing near the tank - i dont like it. And additional i needed a fuel preassure regulator, another thing that made me work to install and that could break one day.
What material is the new hydraulic roller made of?
You may be able to switch back to a normal steel push rod.
I believe it's a steel roller. I called Chris Straub (I bought it from him) and asked what fuel pump rod to use. He said I could use an OEM rod. I didn't ask what material the cam was made of.
99% of my hyd rollers are made from SADI cores. These are 100% USA made. They are stronger than the GM 1050 steel and are rated for 260# seat and 650# open with a 20% safety factory.
I vote to keep things simple and run a mechanical type pump. Unfortunately the short block that I'm building has no provision for a mechanical pump. I've been searching the archives for ideas on mounting and plumbing an electric pump.
Dynoed my engine this week. Mechanical fuel pump couldn't keep up with fuel demand.
First few pulls using shops electric fuel pump. A/f fuel ratios look pretty good throughout.
Switched to my Edelbrock 110 gph mechanical pump. Making pulls from 3500 rpm to 6000 rpm, (6 second pull), A/F ratios start leaning out near the end. So for an 11.5 second 1/4 mile run, I would lean out even more.
I do like the idea of keeping things simple so if I can find a mechanical pump for High flow that's what I'm leaning towards.
Any of you using a high flow mechanical pump that you recommend?
Dynoed my engine this week. Mechanical fuel pump couldn't keep up with fuel demand.
First few pulls using shops electric fuel pump. A/f fuel ratios look pretty good throughout.
Switched to my Edelbrock 110 gph mechanical pump. Making pulls from 3500 rpm to 6000 rpm, (6 second pull), A/F ratios start leaning out near the end. So for an 11.5 second 1/4 mile run, I would lean out even more.
I do like the idea of keeping things simple so if I can find a mechanical pump for High flow that's what I'm leaning towards.
Any of you using a high flow mechanical pump that you recommend?
What kind of HP did you make? Are you still around 540? That's obviously going to make a difference.
I'm pretty surprised that your Edelbrock couldn't keep up.
There are quite a few higher output mechanicals though.
I use the Holley 130 gph mechanical with a regulator.
Holley also sells a 170 gph that doesnt need a regulator.
Both of those pumps actually flow about the same at running pressures.
On paper they both flow way more than you should need.
They also make some billet pumps out there that will flow more, but they get really pricey.
Holley 200 gph http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-12-454-30
I have not dyno'd my car so I can't say that I'm positive that I'm not sucking the float bowls dry.
I do have a wideband O2 sensor & a gauge in the car, and what I've seen there has never worried me, but its pretty hard to watch the gauge when my foot is hard on the throttle.