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Assuming you are referring to the Evercoat plasticworks product, its good stuff. Stinks though..use adequate ventilation. Depending on the type (there is a small box printed on the label with a number in it), its used for bonding panels and for light filling work. Dries to a blue/green color and is semi transparent. Mixes like a typical body filler. Type 3 is for a C3 (FRP). Read the label and follow instructions. DONT use bondo on a vette. For more filling you can use a short strand filler product(duraglass, tigerhair, etc.), then a good glazing putty.
What would you recommend to fix the seam on the front fender. THere is a line about 2" from the top of the front quarter, from the front to the rear of the entire fender. I think it is where the seam has come apart.
The best way to fix a seam crack is to grind the seam in a "V" and then fiberglass the seam creating a solid one piece fender. You should apply layers of fiberglass matt (not fiberglass cloth) until they are above the contour of the fender and then sand back to the contour of the fender. When you apply the fiberglass you should use a fiberglass roller like the ones that Ecklers sells so you get rid of any bubbles in the matt. Once you've done this you can fill any pinholes with a very thin catalyzed body filler and sand smooth. Make sure you use a sealer over any body repairs.
I would definitely fb the seam rather than fill it. Make sure you grind all the dried up factory filler out of the seam. Blow it out and clean it real well before applying fb. Also, remember the strength is in the matt, not the resin..as resin alone is brittle. Use a good epoxy resin like west system.
Also, if you have a propane torch, sweep it over the wet mix after applying. This will bring the air bubbles to the surface & 'pop' them...results in a stronger repair. The panel adhesive is an excellent filler to use after you have contoured the fb using 80 grit. One more thing...check the seam behind the panel also.