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Line Loc install.

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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 08:15 PM
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Default Line Loc install.

I have a TCI line lock. 1 inlet, 1 outlet. Do I run it in between the MC and the proportioning valve. Or do I mount it after the valve and plug one front brake fitting, run the other front brake line into the line loc and T the line coming out to the front brakes.
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 08:53 PM
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I put mine on right out of the master to the front brakes.
When you use it, the dash brake light stays on until you tap the brakes.
Hope this helps.
Terry
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Old Feb 9, 2013 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 540 vette
I have a TCI line lock. 1 inlet, 1 outlet. Do I run it in between the MC and the proportioning valve. Or do I mount it after the valve and plug one front brake fitting, run the other front brake line into the line loc and T the line coming out to the front brakes.
dig back I posted pictures of my TCI roll control. It is very easy right off the Master
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
dig back I posted pictures of my TCI roll control. It is very easy right off the Master
Checked that out. Thats how I will do it. Thanks.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 09:26 AM
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540 vette,

Interested in how yours works out, let us know once you have it installed.

I installed line lock near master cylinder to but it doesn't work very good. When I engage line lock, then let off brakes, car will roll kinda easy. I can't stall past about 1200 rpm. I believe that when I release pedal my back brakes release and the brake warning switch piston in the proportioning valve block moves slightly, releasing front brakes a little.

Other people don't seem to have this problem, not sure why I do.

Roger
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 09:53 AM
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Roger I would say that you Selinoid or valve is bad. Make sure that you have good 12 volts. I used 14 gauge wire right the fuse block and used an unused spare fuse. You also have to have a good ground.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 05:58 PM
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When I wired mine up I used a relay to connect the power to the solenoid.
To power the relay any hot fused low current power source will work.
The power to the solenoid get a good higher amperage capable power source. On mine I intercepted the power from the electric fans which is directly from the hot post on the starter.
Make sure you have a fuse between the solenoid and it's power source.

The reason for the complexity is to prevent having to run a hot wire into the cab of the car and also so the activation switch in the car does not have to carry the 12v load to power the solenoid.
By using the relay to power the solenoid all the "hot" electrical power is under the hood and the activation switch you use in the cab just makes the ground for the relay when used.
So the circuit for the relay always has power just waiting for you to depress the activation switch in the cab and complete the circuit by making the ground, which then closes the relay. Then the relay connects the power to the solenoid that already has a good ground completing that circuit.
This way no running of high amperage wires all over and into the cab where they can get shorted out.
I also put in a toggle switch in the ground line running to the activation switch that is in the cab. In this way the activation switch cannot be accidentally activated without first turning on the toggle switch.

Last edited by REELAV8R; Feb 10, 2013 at 06:03 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by REELAV8R
The reason for the complexity is to prevent having to run a hot wire into the cab of the car and also so the activation switch in the car does not have to carry the 12v load to power the solenoid.
By using the relay to power the solenoid all the "hot" electrical power is under the hood and the activation switch you use in the cab just makes the ground for the relay when used.
So the circuit for the relay always has power just waiting for you to depress the activation switch in the cab and complete the circuit by making the ground, which then closes the relay. Then the relay connects the power to the solenoid that already has a good ground completing that circuit.
This way no running of high amperage wires all over and into the cab where they can get shorted out.
I also put in a toggle switch in the ground line running to the activation switch that is in the cab. In this way the activation switch cannot be accidentally activated without first turning on the toggle switch.
Not the way suggested by Hurst, and very unsafe.

Consider this. If your switched ground lead should short out to ground beyond the switch, but before the relay, the solonoid will activate and you won't even know it until,

You use your brakes and find that the fronts won't unlock, and as soon as the backs do unlock, the car spins (hopefully not on the freeway), or

When you try to use the solonoid, you find that it is burned out because it was on for longer than intended and overheated burning out the windings.

I used mine to replace the T-block.

Last edited by toddalin; Feb 10, 2013 at 06:43 PM.
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 10:02 PM
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Not the way suggested by Hurst, and very unsafe.

Consider this. If your switched ground lead should short out to ground beyond the switch, but before the relay, the solonoid will activate and you won't even know it until,

You use your brakes and find that the fronts won't unlock, and as soon as the backs do unlock, the car spins (hopefully not on the freeway), or

When you try to use the solonoid, you find that it is burned out because it was on for longer than intended and overheated burning out the windings.
I agree that it is remotely possible that it could short to ground although it is installed inside wire conduit and passes through the fire wall which is fiberglass. Keep in mind that the corvette is made of fiberglass so the sources for unintentional grounding are limited.
I did install an led flashing light that flashes whenever the ground is completed. It is wired in between the toggle and solenoid so should it encounter an unintentional ground this light would flash at me alerting me to the condition. It flashes during normal usage each time the ground is completed to let me know that the toggle is on. Also the "brake" light on the panel illuminates whenever the solenoid is activated and the brake depressed then released due to the prop valve. I have to disagree that the car would simply spin out if the front brakes failed to fully release. More likely you would come to a stop unintentionally, but only it you had applied full braking or nearly so to the brake pedal prior to this otherwise the engine could over power the front brakes until you got to a position to handle this unlikely situation.

Last edited by REELAV8R; Feb 10, 2013 at 10:06 PM.
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