upper ball joint completlely stuck on!!!!!!
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
You need suspension pulling tools...
I am not in love with Chinese tools, but the Harbor Freight suspension tools have done well for me:
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...set-66686.html
A pickle fork is more appropriate for tie rod ends, especially if you are tossing them anyway. The puller is the right tool to use for the ball joint taper into the spindle.
I would lay off the heat. Anything heat treated will lose its hardness if you heat it. Ball joints filled with grease can explode if heated.
The puller is sometimes aided by the careful application of a hammer. After you tighten up the puller to the point you are afraid the Chinese device will explode if tightened any more, give a good wack to the puller screw inline with the ball joint taper, and a good wack to the side of the spindle. Should come out pretty easy. If it doesn't pop after a few well applied hammer wacks, see if you can put another 1/2 turn on the puller, and wack again.
http://www.harborfreight.com/automot...set-66686.html
A pickle fork is more appropriate for tie rod ends, especially if you are tossing them anyway. The puller is the right tool to use for the ball joint taper into the spindle.
I would lay off the heat. Anything heat treated will lose its hardness if you heat it. Ball joints filled with grease can explode if heated.
The puller is sometimes aided by the careful application of a hammer. After you tighten up the puller to the point you are afraid the Chinese device will explode if tightened any more, give a good wack to the puller screw inline with the ball joint taper, and a good wack to the side of the spindle. Should come out pretty easy. If it doesn't pop after a few well applied hammer wacks, see if you can put another 1/2 turn on the puller, and wack again.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
Try hitting on opposite sides of the taper at the same time with 2 big hammers. I've had a few where holding one hammer and hitting with another was being useless but a few double whacks popped it right off.
You could also make sure the spring is pulling down on the knuckle and then whack the top the knuckle. The upper a-arm should hit a bump stop on the frame to stop travel so when the suspension is in droop the spring is trying to pull that joint apart. A few good hits in that direction might get it to go. You can also jack the suspension up and put a block in there to limit travel even more and get more spring force pulling on it.
You can also beat the end of the ball joint if you don't mind replacing it too. I've done that a few times on tie rods or ball joints. The cost of a new ball joint was less than the aggravation of trying to save it.
You could also make sure the spring is pulling down on the knuckle and then whack the top the knuckle. The upper a-arm should hit a bump stop on the frame to stop travel so when the suspension is in droop the spring is trying to pull that joint apart. A few good hits in that direction might get it to go. You can also jack the suspension up and put a block in there to limit travel even more and get more spring force pulling on it.
You can also beat the end of the ball joint if you don't mind replacing it too. I've done that a few times on tie rods or ball joints. The cost of a new ball joint was less than the aggravation of trying to save it.
