Anyone upgrade their C3 suspension?
As I start to plan out my restoration on my C3, had different inputs from others on whether to go aftermarket upgrade to C3 suspension
OR
to get a C4 frame/suspension. Please give me some input.
AND if you used/recommend any specific systems.
THanks,
R
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...s/Systems.html







Mike - that looks great!!!
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1957
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...&SubGroup=1935
Richard

The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
IMHO, you don't have to dump a wheelbarrow full of money in the car.
My car is only driven on the street. Over the years, I have tried many different variations of springs, shocks, sway bars, bushings, etc. I have returned most of them back to stock. (I'll have to sell the car for a million dollars to make any money on it!)
The high rate springs, bars, and stiff shocks can make the car corner like a go cart, yes. But you might end up with what I call a "50 mile car". After 50 miles, the noise, vibration and harshness make you want to park it and drive something else.
At this point, on my car, I am using the stock front springs, rubber bushings, Bilstein HD shocks, and a 15/16" front bar mounted in poly. The rear has the Hyperco EZ ride spring, Bilstein HD shocks, rubber bushings, and a completely stock 9/16" rear bar. It is a sweet driving car. The ride/handling balance has a very modern feel.
And I couldn't be happier with it.





I went w/ the single adjust- it's a street car...
Here's the tubular a arms- not on the car yet...






Whatever advice you get, bear in mind there's no one-size-fits-all answer here.
.
Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Feb 19, 2013 at 10:20 PM.
I have completely redone my front and rear suspension piece by piece over the last 30 years so that i could access each change made and I wanted to keep the stock suspension design. The key to improving the stock suspension design is to eliminate any and all play in the stock components. As others have noted, make sure that all stock components such as tie rods, idler arm, ball joints, Trailing arm bushings are perfect first, then:
Front suspension:
1. upper and lower poly control arm bushings
2. Stock 1 1/8 inch sway bar with poly mounting and endlink bushings
3. Speedirect spreader bar-this is a must to stop chassis flex-all C3's need a spreader bar.
4. 550 springs 1 inch shorter than stock
5. Bilstein HD shocks with poly bushings
6. GTR 1999 Custom blue printed/rebuilt OEM steering box-This step is a must to eliminate all play in the steering-A borgeson/R&P Steering will not "improve" handling but handling feel along with a quicker steering ratio. This change has transformed the steering using the stock components-Could not be happier! Not as good as my 10 Z06 but pretty darn good for a C3!
7. 255/45/17 ZR tires and rims-This is a must! You will never achieve optimal steering response, handling and feel with 255/60/15 S/T rated tires. Ask me how I know?
Rear Suspension:
1. VBP 360 Composite spring with poly mounting bushings-Ditch the steel spring for better rear reaction time and ride-installed in 1986-AND it will save 40 lbs off the rear end. Considering a 420 spring since I would prefer a slightly stiffer ride-believe it or not.
2. Competition Adjustable struts with heim joints-NO Bushings-this is a must.
3. I replaced the 7/16 rear oem sway bar with a 3/4 inch OEM type bar, NOT an aftermarket bar with the endlinks like the front bar-Allows more movement of the rear trailing arms.
4. Bilstein Sports (30% stiffer than the front HD's)
5. Modified Shark bar behind the rear seats that ties the bird cage to the floor.
6. 255/45/17 ZR tires.
The car rides, steers, and handles better than most C3's I have ever been in or seen! It's not harsh at all.
Last edited by jb78L-82; Feb 19, 2013 at 09:01 PM.
Mike- great pics!!! Richard too!!!
Thanks all!!!
Well, I am looking for an all around car. I may track at a "RoadAmerica" type place, but really just a street car that can run and handle. Out by me the roads are typically 50mph, so there is alot of driving to be done. Seats are another thing to tackle, but another thread for that.
i was hoping to bring my 69 up to a modern day vette feel. Something streety, fast, good handler, that I can drive for more than "50" minutes. Of course, price always weighs in.
So best bang for buck if doing a frame off, and wanting to make a good resto mod for today's performance standards.
thanks,
Ron

Mike- great pics!!! Richard too!!!
Thanks all!!!
Well, I am looking for an all around car. I may track at a "RoadAmerica" type place, but really just a street car that can run and handle. Out by me the roads are typically 50mph, so there is alot of driving to be done. Seats are another thing to tackle, but another thread for that.
i was hoping to bring my 69 up to a modern day vette feel. Something streety, fast, good handler, that I can drive for more than "50" minutes. Of course, price always weighs in.
So best bang for buck if doing a frame off, and wanting to make a good resto mod for today's performance standards.
thanks,
Ron
From seeing your post, I was looking at a smaller system like yours...Where would you start with suspension?
Thanks,
R
As to your question on where to start with the suspension. If you are doing a frame off then everything is going to need to be done. If you are using the vette while you are working on it, start with whatever is the worst, you want to make sure it is safe to drive. On mine the steering and every bushing on my vette was shot. The body bushings were also rotted out, so I decided to do the complete frame off, including welding new 3 piece rocker channel inserts to give the body a good solid, stiff support to the frame with poly bushings everywhere. On the frame, I cut out and welded fresh steel into all the body mounts since they were rusted, re-welded the entire frame with continuous welds, added gussets, and boxed the front where the swaybars connect for added strength, then acid dipped and powdercoated red.













Looks great! 