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Problems, front lower BJ's, and spring rates???

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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 06:30 PM
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Default Problems, front lower BJ's, and spring rates???

I have had this '72 vert for 18 years now, when I got it, I put in a set of 460 lbs front springs, along with the 360 plastic in the rear.....

at that time I put in a new set of lower ball joints.....and now am finding out they have failed for the 3rd time, and now going on set #4....ready to work on it tmrw.....

I am suspecting that the lower joints are being worked to death by the stiff spring, I have another spring set from an 80-82, Chris McDonald gave them to me years ago, and I dunno the spring rate, just know that they are way taller than the ones in the car....

SO, while I"m at it strikes me, I would like to lower the car an inch or so, so goes anyone know how much to trim off the springs to drop the front down a bit, I intend on backing the nutz down in the rear by an inch or so.....

maybe even remove that plastic spacer between the plastic spring and the diffy, and put it under the plastic spring so the stack up remains the same....


any particular heat problem from the diffy that maybe affect the spring???


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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 12:16 PM
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Do you run the original 15" wheel or have you gone to something bigger? How many miles do the ball joints last? Doesnt cutting the length of a spring increase it's spring rate which is the opposite of what you are trying to accomplish?
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 12:57 PM
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Do you know the BJ manufacturer? When I installed mine with front-end kit, I didn't know that some kits come with inferior made parts. Still not sure what I have, but when they wear out, I'll replace with Moog or other quality USA made parts. I'm just wondering if you are using the quality parts and are wearing them out.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 01:45 PM
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I have had two sets of expensive MOOGs in there, putting in something from NAPA that is 1/2 that price.....two for near 40 bux.....they don't LOOK like china crap....

I do have 460 lbx VBP springs, and want to lower the car an inch or so....

I also have a stock set of 80-82 shark springs that I could maybe use....but would have to cut them to lower the car....

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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvette
I have had two sets of expensive MOOGs in there, putting in something from NAPA that is 1/2 that price.....two for near 40 bux.....they don't LOOK like china crap....

I do have 460 lbx VBP springs, and want to lower the car an inch or so....

I also have a stock set of 80-82 shark springs that I could maybe use....but would have to cut them to lower the car....

Everything I have read about and watched on car shows on this topic leads me to believe that by putting in the taller spring from the 80, you will actually end up lowering the car, not raising it up. That is counter intuitive to initial logic, however, you have to consider that the spring rate is much higher in the shorter, stouter spring. I would install the taller springs before cutting, drive around for a day or so to let it settle, then cut if necessary. Kind of a PITA to remove and install more than once, but at least you don't have to buy another set of springs if you cut too short.

Let us know what you find out.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 02:02 PM
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if you are going to do any cutting, I would use the taller springs.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 02:05 PM
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"Lower B.J.'s".......
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 02:11 PM
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Generally most builders cut the spring a 1/2 coil at a time. The more you cut the stiffer the spring becomes. 460 springs sound pretty heavy duty for a small block and it could shorten the life of the lower ball joint but if you're not getting more than 10,000 miles out of them, I would say they were counterfeit Chinese junk! They just had a huge raid here in the ny area with just that problem. Junk Chinese parts in OEM boxes.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 04:05 PM
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I've had my 550lbs VBP front springs in for about nine years now and only had to replace the upper balljoints in 2004, because they were 25 years old and needed replacement.

My lower balljoints are still original and also still fine, with exception of the drivers side one, which showed 0.5 mm of play in the checkup a month ago. I do have a shock-tower brace though and no composite spring (yet).

The 550's lowered the car to a little less than one inch of space between top of the tire and bottom of the wheel well. But they are pretty 'stout' to drive around with
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 04:48 PM
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I too am on my 3rd set of lower BJs in 5 seasons/years after a full front end suspension rebuild including new 550 springs, I replaced the BJ with raybestos proffesional grade this time. So far so good, they have been in one season, my 70 vert sees 2500 miles a season if I am lucky. Good luck
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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FWIW, C3 front wheel rates are only about 1/2 of the front spring rate, and I've had 860# coils in my shark for ages without such issues. So, I have a hard time believing the springs could be to blame for BJ failure.

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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
FWIW, C3 front wheel rates are only about 1/2 of the front spring rate, and I've had 860# coils in my shark for ages without such issues. So, I have a hard time believing the springs could be to blame for BJ failure.

OK, I have to go with the flow, Had a pleasant conversation with a fellow at VBP today, and he has said the REAL AMERICAN built joints are fine, not an issue.....but does say some China junk has been in the system.....and so that the 460 springs are/or should be just fine....

so to orient them into the car and lower the front, IF I have to change the joints in there now....which is to say I am going to a place with a GOOD local rep and see just WTF is going on there....
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 06:18 PM
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Keep us posted, also on the brand you end up using.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 06:23 PM
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I fitted new Moog lower ball joints and a week later failed my MOT on a lower ball with too much play

A dud from the factory.
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