I'm currently looking at getting a new engine for my 81 auto vette to improve performance was looking at the net and found what appears to be a very good buy, but as always cautious as to buying a motor on ebay. the motor is a CHEVY SBC 383 STAGE 1.5 COMPLETE CRATE MOTOR ENGINE, FORGED PISTONS 420hp from skipwhite. Has anyone got any feedback on these engines and what should i be looking for, i don't want a stall convert and i want an engine that pulls hard with out pulling big revs. I just want a very nice driver. hope the link below works if not copy and paste it.
Thanks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330776540437...84.m1438.l2649

 

Sure plenty have used his with success personally I wouldnt use anything mass assembled by god knows who. Your call

That helps huh

 

I don't know where you're at, but start out looking close to home. Find the oldest and most respected machine shop.

 

I like it.....

 

For that I would by a GM crate motor ... No B/S procomp heads on them.

 

I just put one into my 1978... works like a champ with no BS. I've gone the other "build it out" route; both SBC and BBC and I will never do that again. This is a much less risky path. The ZZ383 came from Jegs (best price) fired right up and runs like a watch. Joel

 

I started a thread about one of Skips motors a while back as I too was considering buying one of his motors. I must say that the price was the first thing that got my attention. While I have nothing bad to say about them, I decided to go a different route and purchased a used and never bored correct date coded block and took to a local shop to have machined and built to 383 specs. Looking back, my only real concerns with buying from someone out of state was logistics of either traveling long distances to pick up or cost of shipping, as well as what would happen if the motor had a major issue. Here's the link to my thread that you might want to take a look at to get others' opinions. Hope this helps you make your decision...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...e-on-ebay.html

 

Just to clarify. You just put a Skip White Ebay motor in your 78 works like a champ with no BS or you just installed a New GM ZZ383. Apples and oranges.

 

I bought a Skip White Performance Stage 2 motor and it's currently sitting between the frame rails waiting for the rest of the frame-off to catch up (see my avatar). I certainly had my reservations about buying a motor from someone 1800 miles away, but everything has trade-offs. Was it exactly the motor I wanted?? Of course not. Did it did balance my budget with realistic expectations of what I can get for that budget? Absolutely. I did a lot of research on the parts as well as on Skip White before pulling the trigger, including calling the BBB. There was nothing there that raised a red flag. Like they say, ya pay your money and ya takes yer chances. Before they send off your motor they make a you tube video of it running, and yes, it was my motor in the video. I know because some of the markings on the block and heads in the video were unique and were present on my motor when it showed up. I have no allegiance to Skip White just because I bought a motor there so I will post a follow up when I finally get it up and running and give my honest feedback, good or bad.

 

seems like a really great deal,the intake height would be the only concern with a vette.

 

Yeah, the intake height is really starting to worry me. If it doesn't fit with a drop base cleaner, I guess I have some more homework to do. Oh Well, that is one of 1000 issues when doing a frame off / resto mod.

 

Skip White will also sell you an engine with dart heads if you choose.
But it will cost a bit more if you choose the better cylinder head.
The procomp stuff is appealing on the price but not much else.
Give him a call and compare the price with the better heads if that is
important to you.If you are willing to pay for higher quality components I have no doubt they will give you what you want.

 

I have a 383 in a 68 I cut down the air cleaner to fit over my Holly works and no fitment issues. You will like the 383 kicks and an huge improvement over my 327/350.

 

It looks like a really nice motor, well done with quality parts.

I was also hesitant to buy online and from ebay dealers. I called and talked to a lot of the builders.

Ended up getting a short block 383 from Summit Racing. Which for me is right down the street. I built it myself, and used many of the same parts as on this one you are looking at.

I really like my Howards cam. I talked to them twice before taking the plunge. And once afterward. Nice folks.

I do like buying locally as it is much easier to talk to others and get support.

Summit has been good to me.

 

Thanks for the help and suggestion and sorry for not getting back to you all sooner as the internet died at my house due to water getting into the phone lines too much rain here in Aust. plenty of suggestions and looking at all options and trying to keep to a budget.
thanks

 

I think you get what you pay for. In this case your not paying much. Don't expect a lot. OEM Roller block with flat tappet cam, Pro Comp heads, Not internally balanced, cast crank, Knock off china intake, Here is a crate engine built with quality parts. Scott Schafiroff puts his name on it and each engine is individually dyno tested. It cost twice the money for a reason, Dart block, splayed mains, Internally balanced, Forged bottom end, roller valvetrain, quality heads, intake. In my opinion your getting twice the engine, no corners cut. I been doing this 40 years and the weak point always breaks. An extra 75 HP and dyno testing is worth something as well and he will do it with your carb and dist or his. Save up a little longer and buy a great engine. I would probably drop down the page and get the hot hydraulic roller version with the AFR heads.
http://www.ultrastreet.net/engines/402_realstreet.php

 

I would have to respectfully disagree. Sure Scott's engines are better. But as you said twice the price. But twice the engine? For only a small hp gain? I'm not impressed. For that money you might as well save up 10g and make a better motor than both. A 500hp engine doesn't need parts that handle much higher hp. My father has a similar thinking process as you, always over build. But I'm more of a budget guy. Am I at risk? Yes, always am. But I'll take my risk. I agree with you though that he couldve used "better" parts. But just because something is made in usa, doesn't mean it's good.. Plenty of ****** american parts. I happened to of bought his engine, I'm personally excited. I most likely won't ever even see strip time. (C3 half shafts problems..) might once or twice to see my mph. But the engine for me will be good for the time being. I plan on replacing the heads and getting a bigger cam as well. But I think skip white is a good average 383 setup. Better than a gm crate motor made in mexico.. Just my .2 cents. But I'm sure you know more than me when it comes to builds. Maybe I just get lucky with cutting corners. Hell, you have more experience than years I've been alive. Only 20 but learning.

 

30 of those 40 years I spent a lot of track time. The dragstrip will let you know what works and what don't. The weak link always breaks. This is where you learn to build the bottom end to handle anything you will ever throw at it because if you don't you will do it over again. Same with cams, heads and valvetrains. You get what you pay for. If your going for a weekend cruiser that will never see close to redline go the cheaper route. If you plan on thrashing it a bit a broken crank or dropped valve will make you wish you went with quality the first time because you will spend way more after the failure. Internally balanced is a must for high performance. Externally balanced was a cost cutting measure because it is generally fine for low RPM truck engines which were what the majority of 400 and 454 engines were installed in. If you build from scratch you start changing weight of pistons, crank, rods and the external balance can be way off. I have seen dozens of these that have a vibration @ 4000 and up that gets worse as RPM rises. Some guys get lucky, some don't.

 

That's what I did. A cheaper route. My c3 is just a cruiser, sure I might jump on it here and there. But I'm too worried about snapping half shafts. So for the time being I'm just going to baby it. But when your right your right. I do plan on swapping the crank for a forged one due to the fact I will be using a 100 shot in the future. Besides, the engine is just a temporary engine. I know what I want to put in it when all said and done. But I'm starting my build from the rear and making my way to the engine. Trust me, if I had the money at the time I would've went for quality. My stock 350 wasn't balanced right and caused spun bearings, and making very loud knocks. i needed a replacement engine, I had 4500 at the time. decided to go with skip white, my father told me to get a crate engine from gm, but I hated the power ratings of those engines. Plus I wouldn't be able to not modify that engine, in which would void warrenty I would assume. So I bought a decent 383. Not top of the line, but better what I had for sure. I don't trust local shops because they look out for themselves and can care less if your engine fails. (around here anyway imo). But from what I read about the valves he uses good aftermarket hardware and gets the pro comp heads bare. I've read a lot of bad things about these heads but I heard people rebuild them to be decent heads? Also, is it possible to get internally balanced? The engine is still on the stand. Just curious.

Thanks,
Blake

 

I know, budget is budget. If you have an externally balanced, assembled 383 it is what it is. You can internally balance it but it would require disassembly, reassembly and quite likely a different crank or expensive mallory slugs added to balance.