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Hello Forum. I am ready to replace my rotors, pads, and calipers on my 79. I do not do any high performance driving. I would like to purchase an entire brake kit that is better than the original kit without having to spend a fortune. I was looking on the internet and there are a ton of options. I just want a good quality upgrade to what I am using.
Hello Forum. I am ready to replace my rotors, pads, and calipers on my 79. I do not do any high performance driving. I would like to purchase an entire brake kit that is better than the original kit without having to spend a fortune. I was looking on the internet and there are a ton of options. I just want a good quality upgrade to what I am using.
Please send your suggestions. Thanks. Sam
There's nothing wrong with the standard Vette brake system that Stainless Steel sleeved calipers won't correct, especially since you are not evolved with high performance.
Why upgrade and waste $? I personally would just buy a set of SS calipers, quality pads, rotors and hoses. You can purchase these parts from some of the sponsoring vendors of the Forum. Just my 2 cents.
Last edited by Jud Chapin; Mar 2, 2013 at 08:13 PM.
I am getting ready to order the o-ringed caliper kit form Corvette Central.
The kit is 699.00 and comes with pads, hoses, rear brakes lines and new calipers that are o-ringed instead of a lip seal. Plus, no core charge. Anybody have any issues with CorvetteCentral, they seemed knowledgeable when I talked to them.
Go with stainless steel sleeved o-ring sealed brake calipers. If you are not doing any performance driving, then just good quality parts for the rest. Many vendors to choose from.
I got my kit from http://www.cssbinc.com/ if your calipers are SS sleeved already and 98% of all c3 calipers are, then just buy the kits. There about $42 each. Also the cause for all the corrosion is the DOT 3 brake fluid, I flushed my lines and replaces it with DOT 5 Silicon break fluid, its non corrosive.
It's easy and fast to do. What I did was wash, clean and paint the calipers with ceramic caliper paint, mount the kits and bleed, I didn't need the piston retaining tool.
Hope this helps
Joey
Unless your rotors have been turned to the point that they are too thin, or are badly scored, DO NOT REPLACE THEM! With the fixed caliper design of the C2/3, very minimum rotor runout is critical. If you replace the rotors and do not set up for minimum runout you will have more problems than you started with.
New or rebuilt calipers, new pads, and perhaps a new or rebuilt master cylinder should get you there. The stock Corvette disc brakes are excellent for all use except all out competition.
Unless your rotors have been turned to the point that they are too thin, or are badly scored, DO NOT REPLACE THEM! With the fixed caliper design of the C2/3, very minimum rotor runout is critical. If you replace the rotors and do not set up for minimum runout you will have more problems than you started with...
Pete
The problem with the stock calipers, even with the stainless lining, is they can eat the iron from behind the lining then start leaking again... not to mention reducing unsprung weight will make your car handle and drive better.
Unless your rotors have been turned to the point that they are too thin, or are badly scored, DO NOT REPLACE THEM! With the fixed caliper design of the C2/3, very minimum rotor runout is critical. If you replace the rotors and do not set up for minimum runout you will have more problems than you started with.
New or rebuilt calipers, new pads, and perhaps a new or rebuilt master cylinder should get you there. The stock Corvette disc brakes are excellent for all use except all out competition.
Pete
+1 Wish more people would get over the 'must replace rotors' idea.
IF you must replace your rotors, you will need to shim them using a dial indicator to within .004" max runout at the outter edge or the oscillation will pump air back into your system. Might want to have them faced "on vehicle" to get them dead-nuts". Yes...even brand new ones.
The problem with the stock calipers, even with the stainless lining, is they can eat the iron from behind the lining then start leaking again... not to mention reducing unsprung weight will make your car handle and drive better.
That is why you need to change the fluid to DOT 5 Silicon. Also the advantage of O rings over the original lip design is that it eliminates the leeks due to lip flaping""and lip going flat after a month with out use.
I upgraded mine 2 years ago and haven't had a problen sinse, my vette stops straight and fast.
Joey
I'm going to amend my answer to add that OEM seals and DOT 3 fluid work just fine despite the claims that the sky is going to fall.
DOT 5 is overrated for street driven cars. It compresses slightly, and tends to form tiny bubbles, both these "features" will give a soft pedal, something a C3 certainly doesn't need given how hard they are for many people to completely bleed all the air out. DOT 5 is specifically NOT recommended for modern cars with anti-lock brakes for the its compressibility. DOT5 is fine for museum pieces that never or very rarely get driven.
I'm going to amend my answer to add that OEM seals and DOT 3 fluid work just fine despite the claims that the sky is going to fall.
I agree with Mike
I have had standard lip seal SS calipers in my 78 since 1985 with DOT 3 fluid on a car that is hardly driven and have never had a problem with the calipers-change the fluid ever 3-4 years!
The stock system is outstanding if maintained. I have the OEM rotors, Stainless steel braided hoses and run Performance Friction Z rated pads and the thing STOPS-Straight and true every time. Are they C6 Z06 brakes? NO but pretty darn good for a 35 year old car, even by today's standards for brakes.
Hey Guys, thanks the advise. I never want to spend more that I really need. I got a question about the rotors oscillating and pushing air back into the system. My old rotors are not scratched or grooved. I was thinking of just having them turned and putting them back on. The reference was to rotor runout. Thanks Sam
My old rotors are not scratched or grooved. I was thinking of just having them turned and putting them back on. The reference was to rotor runout. Thanks Sam
Having them turned separate from the car will most likely cause runout, not cure it. Leave them alone as advised above by at least three of us.