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My advice would be to start your own thread and include all the info I asked for on my first post in this thread in your initial post. This will give a basis to determine cam selection using the information absolutely required to give a good recommendation. Choosing a cam by how it sounds in a poor video in a different car that could be over a full compression point different than your car, could have a different trans and a could have a major difference in rear gearing is a recipe for disaster.
wow high lift. I want to stay with the same heads and no modification to them. I got the muncie 4 speed with 3.70 gears.
Please bear in mind that those figures are with the BBC stock rocker ratio of 1.7 versus the SBC stock ratio of 1.5, and you will also have to remove the lash from the gross lift.
Lift after the lash is removed and with the stock sbc ratio of 1.5 is .458 intake & .478 exhaust. (lash is .022")
It made enough torque to twist the driveshaft into two pieces and snap half the yoke off the rear in one short-shift into third, weeks later it broke three wheel studs in a row off when I short-shifted into second. Could've just been all my fault - I was young and even stupider than now
Please bear in mind that those figures are with the BBC stock rocker ratio of 1.7 versus the SBC stock ratio of 1.5, and you will also have to remove the lash from the gross lift.
Lift after the lash is removed and with the stock sbc ratio of 1.5 is .458 intake & .478 exhaust. (lash is .022")
It made enough torque to twist the driveshaft into two pieces and snap half the yoke off the rear in one short-shift into third, weeks later it broke three wheel studs in a row off when I short-shifted into second. Could've just been all my fault - I was young and even stupider than now
OMG money, money. you sound like a crazy man. I just love my car. I bought it in 1984. used to work on it myself, but not able to anymore, so now I just drive it when I can. thanks for info. I was wondering what the lift was. I am staying stock on heads. the crane I had in there is 467i and 494e.
You asked for advice. I would be glad to help you out. Just need some basic info to give you a recomendation that works for you. Some peoples intended use is cruising in the Hot Rod Power Tour and they want good mileage, 1500 cruising RPM and their car will never see north of 4500 RPM. Others will be roasting the tires everytime they drive it. It will have 3000 RPM launches and 6500 RPM power shifts regularly and 1/4 mile times are the priority. These require 2 totally different philosophies when choosing components. I am not being a smart *** or trying to demean you in any way, just trying to help. You can go with your gut and buy the biggest Thumper cam available in a flat tappet and put it in. Quick and easy and it will sound pretty radical. It also might reduce street manners and your power across the entire RPM range by a 40 HP average compared to a cam selection based on the exact requirements your build, gearing and intended use calls for.
Well let me see if I have everything u needed. Took me time to find it all.
350/370hp factory it s bored 30over
4:11 Muncie 4sp with 3:70 gears
Headers
Side pipes
770cfm Holley carb
Heads 202 1.5 with 11:01 compression
Aluim manifold
My driving. No 1/4 miles, but when I want power it needs to deliver. It's not driven daily. Don't care about gas mileage. Don't want to change the stock heads either. What I had before was a crane with intake 467 exhaust 494. With min rpm 2200 and max 5700.
It was a great cam I just would like to put something with a little more power without having to change heads. I can always put the same cam in. There are so many choices its mind blowing. Thank u again for help. Kim
Well let me see if I have everything u needed. Took me time to find it all.
350/370hp factory it s bored 30over
4:11 Muncie 4sp with 3:70 gears
Headers
Side pipes
770cfm Holley carb
Heads 202 1.5 with 11:01 compression
Aluim manifold
My driving. No 1/4 miles, but when I want power it needs to deliver. It's not driven daily. Don't care about gas mileage. Don't want to change the stock heads either. What I had before was a crane with intake 467 exhaust 494. With min rpm 2200 and max 5700.
It was a great cam I just would like to put something with a little more power without having to change heads. I can always put the same cam in. There are so many choices its mind blowing. Thank u again for help. Kim
Kim, I'm from Nevada. I was just down in Parker.... boating and quad riding.
I hot rodded my little 350 then 355. In its final forms it was in the low 400 hp and had a 7200 rpm red line with big heads and a single plane intake. As cam duration, carb, intake, heads, goes up, so does loss of drivability.
Roller cams are vast improvement. But it is TQ that gives the seat of pants feel when you push on the gas. TQ is a pure function of cubic inch displacement. Higher end street motors might be around a factor of 1.2 X CI At some point the only way to get hot rod type Vette is to either loose weight or go up in CI
Kim, I'm from Nevada. I was just down in Parker.... boating and quad riding.
I hot rodded my little 350 then 355. In its final forms it was in the low 400 hp and had a 7200 rpm red line with big heads and a single plane intake. As cam duration, carb, intake, heads, goes up, so does loss of drivability.
Roller cams are vast improvement. But it is TQ that gives the seat of pants feel when you push on the gas. TQ is a pure function of cubic inch displacement. Higher end street motors might be around a factor of 1.2 X CI At some point the only way to get hot rod type Vette is to either loose weight or go up in CI
I agree 100% but would add forced induction as a way to up the horse power and maitain drivabillity.
If you stay flat tappet maybe try howards 110051-12 or if you are willing to go hydraulic roller,howards 181815-12.Both can be bought at summit and other speed shops.The 1st pn your current springs may work with the roller new springs will be required.If you stay with flat tappet make sure you break it in properly and with correct oil.Also must use new lifters! Good luck
No doubt Hyd roller is the way to go,back in the day could not afford to go roller and did a lot of tinkering solid flat tappet did wonder for waking up my SB. I have a 454HO that is all stock and i want to go with a cam alittle bigger then stock.
Well let me see if I have everything u needed. Took me time to find it all.
350/370hp factory it s bored 30over
4:11 Muncie 4sp with 3:70 gears
Headers
Side pipes
770cfm Holley carb
Heads 202 1.5 with 11:01 compression
Aluim manifold
My driving. No 1/4 miles, but when I want power it needs to deliver. It's not driven daily. Don't care about gas mileage. Don't want to change the stock heads either. What I had before was a crane with intake 467 exhaust 494. With min rpm 2200 and max 5700.
It was a great cam I just would like to put something with a little more power without having to change heads. I can always put the same cam in. There are so many choices its mind blowing. Thank u again for help. Kim
There are a ton of camshaft choices. Your current cam is a H-278-2 and that's 222*/234*on a 114*, are you doctoring pump premium to raise octane (you have alot of compression for iron heads) ?
You will have to be careful changing the lift without checking the valve to piston clearence , you're a great canidate for a custom spec'd cam because of your high compression+iron heads+lift restrictions, unless you are going to have an even higher octane available.
May be best to look at the ".450 lift rule" cams, there are some Howards Cams that are on a 112* lobe seperation that'll work for sure. You could also use 1.6 ratio rockers and the lift would still be safe at .480.
Last edited by 68post; Mar 7, 2013 at 10:32 AM.
Reason: cam? - yes, answered.
Well let me see if I have everything u needed. Took me time to find it all.
350/370hp factory it s bored 30over
4:11 Muncie 4sp with 3:70 gears
Headers
Side pipes
770cfm Holley carb
Heads 202 1.5 with 11:01 compression
Aluim manifold
My driving. No 1/4 miles, but when I want power it needs to deliver. It's not driven daily. Don't care about gas mileage. Don't want to change the stock heads either. What I had before was a crane with intake 467 exhaust 494. With min rpm 2200 and max 5700.
It was a great cam I just would like to put something with a little more power without having to change heads. I can always put the same cam in. There are so many choices its mind blowing. Thank u again for help. Kim
I would put the same cam in. The Crane cam has an intake closing point of 73 with an intake adv duration of 278 due to the wider LSA and no advance ground in. In a comp you have to go to a 294 duration cam to get that late of intake closing. Intake closing point is what you use to figure DCR which, if right allows you to run pump gas. If you want to go Hydraulic Roller which would be my choice have Cstraub grind you a cam. If you want an off the shelf cam that will RPM better and work well in your 11 to 1 iron head motor go with this solid lifter cam custom ground on a 114 LSA. It is a modern tight lash cam. With poly locks, decent rockers, edm lifters and the amount you drive it is not much maintainance. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=232&sb=2
You will need new springs and run high ZDDP oil as well.
No doubt Hyd roller is the way to go,back in the day could not afford to go roller and did a lot of tinkering solid flat tappet did wonder for waking up my SB. I have a 454HO that is all stock and i want to go with a cam alittle bigger then stock.
At one time the solids were more aggresive then the current "at the time" hydraulics, (1980 ?). That's when I bought the Crane solid I mentioned earlier in this thread. Woke-up my 396 that had an "RV" cam in it.
Well guy's I think it's Comp cam CCA-SK12-672- then I can keep the heads same. Want to thank everyone for there help and patients. Great suggestions but money is an issue. Maybe when I win the lottery
Well guy's I think it's Comp cam CCA-SK12-672- then I can keep the heads same. Want to thank everyone for there help and patients. Great suggestions but money is an issue. Maybe when I win the lottery
You will need springs. The Z28 springs should work. I would go with the K kit instead since you have to replace springs. Also get it custom ground on a 114 LSA. You need the later intake closing point to avoid detonation.
whNostalgia Plus Hyd. Flat Tappet Cam Small Kit
Chevy Small Block 262-400ci 1955-98
Lift: .483"/.477"
Duration: 286°/293°
Lobe Separation Angle: 112°
RPM Range: 2300-6500
Chevy Small Block 262-400ci 1955-98
still searching
Call Comp Cams to verify about the springs - they list the 981 spring as well as the 986 spring. The 981 spring is 1 1/4" diameter, the same as stock, but it probably has more stiffness. I'm putting one of these in a 355 and look forward to good results. BTW, grinding this cam on a 114 degree lobe separation angle will RETARD the intake and make it close later by 2 degrees assuming that the overlap split is kept in the same place.
That is a hydraulic flat tappet version of the cam I linked. You should always change to new recommended spring with any cam If the old cam is done fatigue is likely set in on the springs, especially if your changing the ramp, lift and duration. Odds of breaking a spring will increase a lot. You could check the spring pressures of what you have and compare them to recommended but I would change them.
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