offset "A" arm shaft question
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 698
Likes: 8
From: Stockholm Sweden
Mine are VBP part number 42101
http://www.streetperformance.com/par...955-42101.html
They are different to yours and look tougher
http://www.streetperformance.com/par...955-42101.html
They are different to yours and look tougher
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,666
Likes: 289
From: Spring Park MN
Great!
I in my update of front and rear suspension, I just put as set of the VB&P A arms on my car. Now I think I will pull it all back apart, beef them up and powder coat them again. I thought they looked a little spindly when they arrived.
I in my update of front and rear suspension, I just put as set of the VB&P A arms on my car. Now I think I will pull it all back apart, beef them up and powder coat them again. I thought they looked a little spindly when they arrived.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,666
Likes: 289
From: Spring Park MN
Last edited by v2racing; Mar 24, 2013 at 12:56 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 7
From: Beringen
I found that out, because I removed the round metal housing on the end to fit rubbers again (don't ask me why, because I don't want to go into that discussion again). As you all will probably know, the washers on rubbers need to be drawn up onto the serrated part in the bushings. That takes some force. You could actually see them bending in when i torqued them up.
Anyway, for me it's not an issue since the bushing sits tightly against te shoulder of the shaft. Rotation is taken up in the bushing.
Second problem with them is the weld on the round metal housing is only a small weld, taking up all of the force the A-arm undergoes. Since I was welding, I added extra reinforcements.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 523
Likes: 4
From: Calgary Alberta
WARNING!!!
For VBP upper Controll Arms: Part#: 42120
Link:
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...num-Cross.html
Even if they are described as "stronger then stock" they are NOT up for the job!!
Those A-arms are WEAKER then stock!
They are propably good for dragracing and slow cruising but they cant take offensive hard braking.
Trust me, just check the supports for the bushings at the aluminium cross.. The are only supported at ONE side witch leads to that the Controll Arm flexes and loosing its shape!!
Heres a link to a video i did send VBP half a year ago, witch they yet have not responded to!
The controllarms are about 2 years old on the video and have seen about 6 trackdays + very Little road use.
I have mailed VBP and also phoned them but they keep turning me away and do not respond to my mails.
My suggestion is:
By something else instead!
//Ricky.
Link:
http://s830.photobucket.com/user/RBB...tml?sort=3&o=2
For VBP upper Controll Arms: Part#: 42120
Link:
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...num-Cross.html
Even if they are described as "stronger then stock" they are NOT up for the job!!
Those A-arms are WEAKER then stock!
They are propably good for dragracing and slow cruising but they cant take offensive hard braking.
Trust me, just check the supports for the bushings at the aluminium cross.. The are only supported at ONE side witch leads to that the Controll Arm flexes and loosing its shape!!
Heres a link to a video i did send VBP half a year ago, witch they yet have not responded to!
The controllarms are about 2 years old on the video and have seen about 6 trackdays + very Little road use.
I have mailed VBP and also phoned them but they keep turning me away and do not respond to my mails.
My suggestion is:
By something else instead!
//Ricky.
Link:
http://s830.photobucket.com/user/RBB...tml?sort=3&o=2
Interesting post here about the VBP offset A-arms. I have the VBP units with the steel cross shaft as per the link below (part # 42102). Haven't installed them yet so I'm not sure if the steel shaft makes any difference when it comes to the strength of the A-arm itself. I won't be racing the car and it will only see street driving and the occasional autocross event so I hope they will hold up.
Do you think there is any advantage or disadvantage going with a tubular lower A-arm as well? VBP doesn't offer lower tubular A-arms.
Thanks Don
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...-Cross-Sh.html
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 7
From: Beringen
Hi RickyBerg,
Interesting post here about the VBP offset A-arms. I have the VBP units with the steel cross shaft as per the link below (part # 42102). Haven't installed them yet so I'm not sure if the steel shaft makes any difference when it comes to the strength of the A-arm itself. I won't be racing the car and it will only see street driving and the occasional autocross event so I hope they will hold up.
Do you think there is any advantage or disadvantage going with a tubular lower A-arm as well? VBP doesn't offer lower tubular A-arms.
Thanks Don
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...-Cross-Sh.html
Interesting post here about the VBP offset A-arms. I have the VBP units with the steel cross shaft as per the link below (part # 42102). Haven't installed them yet so I'm not sure if the steel shaft makes any difference when it comes to the strength of the A-arm itself. I won't be racing the car and it will only see street driving and the occasional autocross event so I hope they will hold up.
Do you think there is any advantage or disadvantage going with a tubular lower A-arm as well? VBP doesn't offer lower tubular A-arms.
Thanks Don
http://www.vbandp.com/C2-C3-Corvette...-Cross-Sh.html
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,136
Likes: 8
From: Chichester, UK
The problem with aftermarket A-Arms is that the bushing part of the arm do not appear to be strong enough.
However, with the redesigned geometry to give more caster, they are almost must for modern tyres and bigger wheels.
The solution could be to replace the bushing part of the arm with spherical bearings to give more rigidity and adjustability.
However, with the redesigned geometry to give more caster, they are almost must for modern tyres and bigger wheels.
The solution could be to replace the bushing part of the arm with spherical bearings to give more rigidity and adjustability.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 31,976
Likes: 487
From: Guinness Its whats for B'fast JAWGA
CI 3-4-5-9 Veteran
I have not tested my new ones yet but they do look solid and the bearings are supported both ways.
I now got the SPC adjustable ones instead.
http://spcalignment.com/performance/...tion&pid=94370
But there are more controllarms out there witch are just fine.
//Ricky.
I now got the SPC adjustable ones instead.
http://spcalignment.com/performance/...tion&pid=94370
But there are more controllarms out there witch are just fine.
//Ricky.
If heavy Chevelles on sticky tires and improved camber curves (tall ball joints or spindles) aren't breaking them, I doubt a Corvette will.
An added benefit to the SPC Arms: The car was aligned for the street with no shims, using only the adjustment in the arms. When I do a track event, I drop the shim stack into its respective spot, and off I go. The shim 4 shim stacks are labeled for each respective location. When I am done, I take the shims out.
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show....php?p=3838009
Last edited by 93Polo; Mar 28, 2013 at 12:22 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,666
Likes: 289
From: Spring Park MN
I too have seen tubular A arms on some very fast Chevelles and Camaros at autocross events. They don't seem to be having a problem.
The upper A arm does not take near the punishment as the lower arms do. Look at the difference in the size of the ball joint and all the fasteners on the lower arm compared to the upper.
As far as the flexing, the stock stamped A arms are not the stiffest things on the planet. It is very easy to bend them during new bushing installation, and they will squeeze together too if there is a gap when tightening the bolts at the pivot.
I went with tubular A arms to get the added caster. The rack and pinion I installed on the car needs a lot more caster to drive like a modern car.
As far as the VB&P arms in the video, the same as I have, they are spindly. They do need to be beefed up. Triangulation is the key. Attaching them better at the pivot will help too. When I am done with them, I am sure they will be stiffer than the stock stamped arms, and I expect no problems with them afterwords.
The upper A arm does not take near the punishment as the lower arms do. Look at the difference in the size of the ball joint and all the fasteners on the lower arm compared to the upper.
As far as the flexing, the stock stamped A arms are not the stiffest things on the planet. It is very easy to bend them during new bushing installation, and they will squeeze together too if there is a gap when tightening the bolts at the pivot.
I went with tubular A arms to get the added caster. The rack and pinion I installed on the car needs a lot more caster to drive like a modern car.
As far as the VB&P arms in the video, the same as I have, they are spindly. They do need to be beefed up. Triangulation is the key. Attaching them better at the pivot will help too. When I am done with them, I am sure they will be stiffer than the stock stamped arms, and I expect no problems with them afterwords.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 523
Likes: 4
From: Calgary Alberta
Hmmm, well I think I will have to monitor the condition of the VB&P offset A-arms once I have them installed based on the information provided here.
If they do bend then it looks like SPC A-arms may be the option to look into at that time. However, the fact that I have already purchased the VB&P arms means that I probably should give them a try and keep my fingers crossed that they won't bend with the kind of driving that I intend to use the car for.
I am not really that keen with having the VB&P arms modified and beefed up as I am not a welder and am not sure I would trust anyone to modify them for overall safety reasons. Just my thoughts....
If they do bend then it looks like SPC A-arms may be the option to look into at that time. However, the fact that I have already purchased the VB&P arms means that I probably should give them a try and keep my fingers crossed that they won't bend with the kind of driving that I intend to use the car for.
I am not really that keen with having the VB&P arms modified and beefed up as I am not a welder and am not sure I would trust anyone to modify them for overall safety reasons. Just my thoughts....
Pro
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 698
Likes: 8
From: Stockholm Sweden
I too have seen tubular A arms on some very fast Chevelles and Camaros at autocross events. They don't seem to be having a problem.
The upper A arm does not take near the punishment as the lower arms do. Look at the difference in the size of the ball joint and all the fasteners on the lower arm compared to the upper.
As far as the flexing, the stock stamped A arms are not the stiffest things on the planet. It is very easy to bend them during new bushing installation, and they will squeeze together too if there is a gap when tightening the bolts at the pivot.
I went with tubular A arms to get the added caster. The rack and pinion I installed on the car needs a lot more caster to drive like a modern car.
As far as the VB&P arms in the video, the same as I have, they are spindly. They do need to be beefed up. Triangulation is the key. Attaching them better at the pivot will help too. When I am done with them, I am sure they will be stiffer than the stock stamped arms, and I expect no problems with them afterwords.
The upper A arm does not take near the punishment as the lower arms do. Look at the difference in the size of the ball joint and all the fasteners on the lower arm compared to the upper.
As far as the flexing, the stock stamped A arms are not the stiffest things on the planet. It is very easy to bend them during new bushing installation, and they will squeeze together too if there is a gap when tightening the bolts at the pivot.
I went with tubular A arms to get the added caster. The rack and pinion I installed on the car needs a lot more caster to drive like a modern car.
As far as the VB&P arms in the video, the same as I have, they are spindly. They do need to be beefed up. Triangulation is the key. Attaching them better at the pivot will help too. When I am done with them, I am sure they will be stiffer than the stock stamped arms, and I expect no problems with them afterwords.
And the VBP "stronger then stock" A-arms do flex to a Point where they do loose their original shape.
Thats the reason they are NOT good enough!
I know that other manufactures do sell similar looking A-arms witch are supported at the cross and this do reduce the posability of flexing and deformation.
If you chose to doubt my experience with the VBP A-arms in my link, please link to the ones that doing a better job and i will comment on that.
//Ricky.
Last edited by RickyBerg; Mar 28, 2013 at 07:35 PM.