High volume/flow water pumps
Pro
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 523
Likes: 4
From: Calgary Alberta
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...igh_perf.shtml
I believe Weiand also makes a water pump that will fit but I don't have a part number. There is one other manufacturer that other forum members have used and recommended but can't remember the name of it.
I'm sure other members will advise on that.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,380
Likes: 415
From: N J
From my own personal experience I say dont waste your money. I saw zero change from a unit called flow kooler that I purchased many years ago. If the rest of the system is up to snuff, the gm pump should do the job.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
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The GM is already about 35% 'oversized', more is not better.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 53,648
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From: Southern Cal Ca
St. Jude Donor '22
Hi calwldlife, I would recommend the Edelbrock Victor series 8812 or 8822 water pump. They are high performance pumps and fit perfectly in our C3. I have one on my 427 SBC and it works very well. But I should advise that I am also running a Dewitts aluminum rad with dual spal fans so overheating should never be a problem for me. Here's a link to follow:
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...igh_perf.shtml
I believe Weiand also makes a water pump that will fit but I don't have a part number. There is one other manufacturer that other forum members have used and recommended but can't remember the name of it.
I'm sure other members will advise on that.
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...igh_perf.shtml
I believe Weiand also makes a water pump that will fit but I don't have a part number. There is one other manufacturer that other forum members have used and recommended but can't remember the name of it.
I'm sure other members will advise on that.
that is curious. all gm small block or vette specific?
delco pumps or the auto zone variety?
Car never over heated. just runs hotter than I like.
210-220 ish .
any help in tips or tricks is wanted.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,362
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio TX
Yes that is too Hot in my opinion. What Thermostat are you running?
Do you have an air damn? And is all seals in place? If you have a clutch fan is it working correctly? If this stuff is in place and is fine then I would probably have your radiator cleaned out.
As for the Water Pump. What we did years ago before all of this new fangled fancy stuff is you would simply remove the back cover off of the water pump and make a round disc that is the same size as the impeller and center it and rivet it to the impeller then simply put the rear plate back on.
Do you have an air damn? And is all seals in place? If you have a clutch fan is it working correctly? If this stuff is in place and is fine then I would probably have your radiator cleaned out.
As for the Water Pump. What we did years ago before all of this new fangled fancy stuff is you would simply remove the back cover off of the water pump and make a round disc that is the same size as the impeller and center it and rivet it to the impeller then simply put the rear plate back on.
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 53,648
Likes: 878
From: Southern Cal Ca
St. Jude Donor '22
that is summer temps with A/C
normal is at 195 like the thermostat.
changed rads out long ago and the orig is still clean and
solid. the system is flushed and maintained very well.
all shrouds all there and the fan clutch seems good.
clutch is the only thing I never changed or messed with.
I check the pump blades and clearence it to the cover plate.
not aware of the rivet to blades trick.
Too cheap to go alumn.
and elect fans.
normal is at 195 like the thermostat.
changed rads out long ago and the orig is still clean and
solid. the system is flushed and maintained very well.
all shrouds all there and the fan clutch seems good.
clutch is the only thing I never changed or messed with.
I check the pump blades and clearence it to the cover plate.
not aware of the rivet to blades trick.
Too cheap to go alumn.
and elect fans.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,362
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio TX
I would change the Thermostat to a 160F or 180F and drill 4 1/8 equally spaced holes in the body. This will help coolant flow and also help prevent air pockets.
I feel this would be the easiest Thing to do since all of your other components are up to snuff.
I feel this would be the easiest Thing to do since all of your other components are up to snuff.
Last edited by SHAKERATTLEROLL; Mar 18, 2013 at 08:54 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2001
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 53,648
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From: Southern Cal Ca
St. Jude Donor '22
i am orig owner.
I want to use A/c more and just don't like the extra temp.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,886
Likes: 9
If you drill a bunch of bypass holes in the thermostat, in cold weather it will take forever to warm up. Somebody did that to a '95 C2500HD pickup I once owned. Warmup time in the winter went from 5 minutes to 25 minutes. The factory 'stat has a VERY small air bleed in it. It's fine. Leave it alone.
And a 180 F temp thermostat is perfect. IMHO, a 160 F is not hot enough. The thermostat only sets the minimum operating temp of the engine. The efficiency of the pump and radiator establishes the maximum temp. Likely, even with a very low temp thermostat, the water will eventually stabilize at 180 to 200 degrees anyway. A low temp stat will only increase the warmup time. And a cold engine wears faster and burns more fuel. The C5's and C6's run at 220 or thereabouts.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,362
Likes: 1
From: San Antonio TX
Please allow me to disagree.
If you drill a bunch of bypass holes in the thermostat, in cold weather it will take forever to warm up. Somebody did that to a '95 C2500HD pickup I once owned. Warmup time in the winter went from 5 minutes to 25 minutes. The factory 'stat has a VERY small air bleed in it. It's fine. Leave it alone.
And a 180 F temp thermostat is perfect. IMHO, a 160 F is not hot enough. The thermostat only sets the minimum operating temp of the engine. The efficiency of the pump and radiator establishes the maximum temp. Likely, even with a very low temp thermostat, the water will eventually stabilize at 180 to 200 degrees anyway. A low temp stat will only increase the warmup time. And a cold engine wears faster and burns more fuel. The C5's and C6's run at 220 or thereabouts.
If you drill a bunch of bypass holes in the thermostat, in cold weather it will take forever to warm up. Somebody did that to a '95 C2500HD pickup I once owned. Warmup time in the winter went from 5 minutes to 25 minutes. The factory 'stat has a VERY small air bleed in it. It's fine. Leave it alone.
And a 180 F temp thermostat is perfect. IMHO, a 160 F is not hot enough. The thermostat only sets the minimum operating temp of the engine. The efficiency of the pump and radiator establishes the maximum temp. Likely, even with a very low temp thermostat, the water will eventually stabilize at 180 to 200 degrees anyway. A low temp stat will only increase the warmup time. And a cold engine wears faster and burns more fuel. The C5's and C6's run at 220 or thereabouts.
I will not argue the points. Except to say that the OP lives in CA so maybe he does not get cold winters. I live in San Antonio TEXAS of which we do not really have winters to contend with. Heck one does not even need a choke lol.
But yes as far as cooling efficiency goes a thermostat will only regulate the water flow at its set release state. And is designed so that it can slow down the water flow at its set temperature as to let the radiator have enough time to cool the water flowing through it. That is why it is a Bad idea for a Street engine to not use a Thermostat.
Now then if the flow rate is at Maximum rate then if the radiator does not have enough efficiency to cool down the heat generated by the engine than the water temperature will steadily climb to the temperature that the system is able to hold it at.
But I would choose a 180F Thermostat to start with. If you wish you do not need to drill 4 holes but I would at least drill one 1/8th inch hole.
And these Engines are not a C-5 or C-6 Door Stops lol.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
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From: Florida
The reason for the 1/8" bypass holes in the tstat is for when the internal bypass of the smallblock is closed off, system needs some circulation.
Some high flow pumps have that port missing. Reason for this is to have ALL the coolant going thru the radiator when the tstat is open and engine is at operating temp.
The current trend in thermostats is to use a bigger hole with a poppet to close it off (leaks slightly for circulation to detect coolant temp).
The bigger hole just minimizes possible air pockets from improper filling.
In a properly working system, the coolant should be able to maintain the tstat temp +/- a few degrees. A 195° is fine in almost all cases.
Most aftermarket high flow pumps have substantially more flow at idle where it's beneficial.
Higher flow results in greater heat exchange.
Alum rad will improve cooling too.
What GM did originally is irrelevant.
Some high flow pumps have that port missing. Reason for this is to have ALL the coolant going thru the radiator when the tstat is open and engine is at operating temp.
The current trend in thermostats is to use a bigger hole with a poppet to close it off (leaks slightly for circulation to detect coolant temp).
The bigger hole just minimizes possible air pockets from improper filling.
In a properly working system, the coolant should be able to maintain the tstat temp +/- a few degrees. A 195° is fine in almost all cases.
Most aftermarket high flow pumps have substantially more flow at idle where it's beneficial.
Higher flow results in greater heat exchange.
Alum rad will improve cooling too.
What GM did originally is irrelevant.
Had a 1976 L-82, 4-sp
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 5,338
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From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
I use a Stewart Stage 2 water pump with a 180* TS and original recored rad. It now takes a bit longer to warm up due to the small drilled holes in the TS. I'm happy with this pump/cooling but I live in an area where it doesn't get hot to often.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
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From: Florida
That's a very good pump, the one I use most and is one that has no port for the internal bypass, so you are forced to use a highflow balanced tstat with the extra holes.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,652
Likes: 49
From: Bridgewater nj
Warm up between a 160* and a180* is the same up to the set temp. I ran 160* in my hotrods for years but in a stock corvette in the winter you'll have the choke engaging on the old style spring choke. Electric choke has no ill affects.
I do prefer to run a 180* as it hold the coolant in the radiator longer to cool in traffic and you do want your oil to reach 215* so it can steam out moister in the engine.
Water pumps I'm on the fence. If I were to spring for a pump the edelbrock is rebuildable from what I understand and a better design with larger bearings.
I do prefer to run a 180* as it hold the coolant in the radiator longer to cool in traffic and you do want your oil to reach 215* so it can steam out moister in the engine.
Water pumps I'm on the fence. If I were to spring for a pump the edelbrock is rebuildable from what I understand and a better design with larger bearings.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,879
Likes: 38
From: Los Gatos CA
I have had good luck with a Flow Kooler pump, an A/C fan and otherwise stock system in a 68 L36.
In CA we do not worry too much about cold weather.
Of course, I use full manifold vacuum advance and a little quicker than stock curve.
Just my experience...
In CA we do not worry too much about cold weather.
Of course, I use full manifold vacuum advance and a little quicker than stock curve.
Just my experience...
Last edited by Jeff_Keryk; Mar 19, 2013 at 11:03 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Beringen