Before I remove the pw motor
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
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Before I remove the pw motor
Passenger side pw ...has fallen and it can't get up: like that old lady in that infamous TV commercial.
I have power to the motor and hear a really faint tick when power is applied to the motor through the switch.
The manual says the window has to be cranked up all the way prior to removing the motor.
#1- How can I be certain the motor needs to be repaired/replaced? Is there a sure-fire test?
#2- If it has to come out, how can I get the window cranked all the way up?
I appreciate your help.
Thanks
I have power to the motor and hear a really faint tick when power is applied to the motor through the switch.
The manual says the window has to be cranked up all the way prior to removing the motor.
#1- How can I be certain the motor needs to be repaired/replaced? Is there a sure-fire test?
#2- If it has to come out, how can I get the window cranked all the way up?
I appreciate your help.
Thanks
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,079
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From: KY
DO NOT remove the motor from the regulator while they're still inside the door. This usually results in broken glass.
When you say "fallen", do you mean the glass is no longer attached to the regulator?
When you say "fallen", do you mean the glass is no longer attached to the regulator?
Last edited by 68-427Rich; Mar 19, 2013 at 04:51 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
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Not so much fallen. It's still attached to the regulator but just cannot go up electrically- or physically for that matter.
If I will have to repair or replace the motor, that's fine. I was hoping that there might be a test that will prove the motor is bad.
But no, the window hasn't fallen. It just cannot go up.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
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Once the plug is off, I am assume you mean I should power up the motor with jumpers...
Thanks guys for the ideas.
Last edited by cor66vette; Mar 19, 2013 at 09:27 PM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
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Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Seattle Washington
The only other thing I can think of is that the Window for what ever reason is Jamed in the bottom and once broken loose the motor may work. Useing an Amp Clamp you might be able to figure out what the Motor draw is but its just making things compicated. One way or another your going to need to get the Glass out of there. Before You start un bolting everything mark all the Bolt ajustments. The best way is to spray paint the bolts before You remove them that way You can see just where they were when You put them back. And the Glass will be in the same ajustment when you started. Once You get it all apart You will need to clean the Guides and everything else. If the motor runs by itself with out the Glass it might be worth a try to give it one more test run with everything bolted back togeather loose.
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2001
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The only other thing I can think of is that the Window for what ever reason is Jamed in the bottom and once broken loose the motor may work. Useing an Amp Clamp you might be able to figure out what the Motor draw is but its just making things compicated. One way or another your going to need to get the Glass out of there. Before You start un bolting everything mark all the Bolt ajustments. The best way is to spray paint the bolts before You remove them that way You can see just where they were when You put them back. And the Glass will be in the same ajustment when you started. Once You get it all apart You will need to clean the Guides and everything else. If the motor runs by itself with out the Glass it might be worth a try to give it one more test run with everything bolted back togeather loose.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
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From: Aurora Ontario
I did not try that and will do so in the morning.
The motor makes the faintest tick that's barely audible and nothing else. No whining, spinning or anything.
Once the plug is off, I am assume you mean I should power up the motor with jumpers...
Thanks guys for the ideas.
The motor makes the faintest tick that's barely audible and nothing else. No whining, spinning or anything.
Once the plug is off, I am assume you mean I should power up the motor with jumpers...
Thanks guys for the ideas.
Jim
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
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Before you jump both wires completetly try running a ground wire from the battery to anywhere on the metal of the motor. Try the switch and see if it goes up. The motor grounds through the door frame metal. Sometimes a little corrosion prevents a good ground. If that doesn't work try jumping both wires as recommended, if that works its the switch not the motor.....or could be the wires to the motor from the switch are broken were they pass through the door to the car.
Jim
Jim
I definitely will do that first.
As for the switch- I think I proved the switch to be okay with a continuity tester, also by measuring voltage at the plug to the motor when the switch is used, so based on that I'm assuming that the switch is good.
I also tested the 2 wires to the motor for shorts, and found no continuity to ground or to each other.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
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From: Aurora Ontario
Thanks, Jim-
I definitely will do that first.
As for the switch- I think I proved the switch to be okay with a continuity tester, also by measuring voltage at the plug to the motor when the switch is used, so based on that I'm assuming that the switch is good.
I also tested the 2 wires to the motor for shorts, and found no continuity to ground or to each other.
I definitely will do that first.
As for the switch- I think I proved the switch to be okay with a continuity tester, also by measuring voltage at the plug to the motor when the switch is used, so based on that I'm assuming that the switch is good.
I also tested the 2 wires to the motor for shorts, and found no continuity to ground or to each other.
If you unplug the connector and touch the one wire with red on the meter and run the black from the meter to the motor and/or door frame do you get 12 volts when you toggle the switch?
BTW there is no power to the wires at the motor unless the switch is toggled in the up or down position...that sends the power to the motor....one wire is for up and the other is for down.
Try running another ground. To the motor then to the door frame while trying the switch. See which if either have lost there ground.
Jim
Last edited by jdp6000; Mar 20, 2013 at 08:42 AM.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
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Okay, so here is where I'm at...
It is working.
I found the problem at the plug to the motor- actually IN the plug to the motor. Although in my previous testing I got the voltage to the plug, the conductor in the plug was not conducting. I cleaned up the terminals and now it goes up and down like a banchee.
Being the door panel is off, besides lubing all the pivot points, is there anything worth doing in there before I re install the panel?
And thank you all for the ideas. Those suggestions brought me to the root of the problem.
It is working.
I found the problem at the plug to the motor- actually IN the plug to the motor. Although in my previous testing I got the voltage to the plug, the conductor in the plug was not conducting. I cleaned up the terminals and now it goes up and down like a banchee.
Being the door panel is off, besides lubing all the pivot points, is there anything worth doing in there before I re install the panel?
And thank you all for the ideas. Those suggestions brought me to the root of the problem.
Last edited by cor66vette; Mar 20, 2013 at 01:13 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
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From: Orange Park Florida
YES, and as for lube/grease, give that spring a good coat of the heaviest oil you can find to use....paintbrush??
it looks like a electric stove cal rod, and helps the window motor going UP, to counter the glass weight.....it's on the main pivot point of the window mechanism, you can see it with a light down the slot, with the door panel off.....those springs typically rust and then snap, and the window goes up slo, and down FAST......
it looks like a electric stove cal rod, and helps the window motor going UP, to counter the glass weight.....it's on the main pivot point of the window mechanism, you can see it with a light down the slot, with the door panel off.....those springs typically rust and then snap, and the window goes up slo, and down FAST......