My first thread. Wooo Hoooo!!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
My first thread. Wooo Hoooo!!
I've been reading many threads covering a variety of subjects. All I can say is I have found my favorite Corvette forum.
My question, I have recently purchased a driver 1976 L48 Auto trans. I would like to lower the front from 1 to 1-1/2 inches and am seeking advice as to the best approach.
Much thanks for your input.
My question, I have recently purchased a driver 1976 L48 Auto trans. I would like to lower the front from 1 to 1-1/2 inches and am seeking advice as to the best approach.
Much thanks for your input.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 871
Likes: 73
From: Memphis Tennessee
Quite a few people switching to 550lb springs have found about an inch lower ride height. Other option is cut your current springs. There are a lot of threads on that subject. Remember, it's better to cut too little than too much...
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 1,868
Likes: 13
From: Mascoutah IL
Congrats and welcome to CF!!! Lots of great folks, mentors and info... "Search" will become your friend... I did a couple quick searches on "cut coil", "lower front", and "how to cut front coils"... You'll come up with a lot of threads and then you can peruse at your leisure... Here's an example of one of the threads...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-too-high.html
Have fun and we LOVE pictures...
Rogman
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...-too-high.html
Have fun and we LOVE pictures...
Rogman
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,590
Likes: 403
From: Nashville TN
St. Jude Donor '09
If it is higher than stock, you might check to make sure spring is seated correctly in the top pocket. It's possible if work was done in the past that it was incorrectly installed which would leave a large gap between tire and wheel well. Why are you trying to lower? I installed 550# spring on mine and it dropped it about an inch or so. Just be careful. These cars already sit pretty low, so you have to keep road conditions and low points on car (sidepipes, extra capacity oil & tranny pans, etc.) Lowering will also make it ride stiffer (which I like), but depends on your roads.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
Thanks.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
If it is higher than stock, you might check to make sure spring is seated correctly in the top pocket. It's possible if work was done in the past that it was incorrectly installed which would leave a large gap between tire and wheel well. Why are you trying to lower? I installed 550# spring on mine and it dropped it about an inch or so. Just be careful. These cars already sit pretty low, so you have to keep road conditions and low points on car (sidepipes, extra capacity oil & tranny pans, etc.) Lowering will also make it ride stiffer (which I like), but depends on your roads.
As far as road clearence, thirty years ago I bought my first C3, a 1975. Great car that I owned for ten years so I now all about clearence and being carefull everywhere you drive. I sold the car and the boat I owned for a bigger boat (my first Formula) which is where I wanted to focus my play time. Now I'm 54 yrs old still very active own my third Formula, a 311SR1, and wanted to get back in a C3.
Thanks for your input.
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Welcome to the forum and good luck lowering the car.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
Now, cut from the top or bottom?? What is involved in removal of the springs, best method. Do you know of any links describing the proceedure??
Also, some say the ride will be a little stiffer which makes sence (fewer coils). Will it be uncomfortable stiff (granted its a personal preference issue)?? And will a new alignment be required?
Thanks,
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
I've been driving short distances when weather allows. You know, to analyze and get familliar and learn the new girls issues. Then on the weekends correct certain systems that need attention only to the point that I'm able to drive the following week.
Just having fun with it ya know.
Later.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 193
Likes: 2
From: Illinois
Not really a bad job, just took some time and patience. I chose to try to break the upper ball joint loose by hammer tapping the flats that are cast into the stud body. First a couple raps on the left then right and back and forth. After around 8 - 12 raps pop!!! out came the tapered ball joint stud from it's bore and caught by the nut that I left on but loose.
Bottom line . . . exactly 1-1/2 inches lower and looks great. (to me) Nicely raked stance.
Now, due to the absence of much shimming on the drivers upper control arm shaft, I don't think the alignment shop will have enough positive camber adjustment to get there. Does anyone have an idea how much adjustment in inches might be needed to get the camber back where it was?? .062'', .125'', or more?? Has anyone used the offset Shafts and what would be a good source??
Thanks much.