Trans cooler line routing
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 102
Likes: 1
From: St. Jacob IL
Trans cooler line routing
So after putting the engine in my '80, this is what my transmission cooler lines look like. I'm pretty sure that this is not what they are supposed to look like in the front, but they look like the originals near the transmission. I have access to a tubing bender. What should I do with these? Or should I just cut them and run longer rubber pressure hose?
For some reason the picture didn't go in here but it should be on my page...
For some reason the picture didn't go in here but it should be on my page...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
I can't see your pictures but NO DO NOT CUT the lines. There is a small hump near the end of the lines that keeps the rubber hoses from being blown off by the pressure. Your hose must be pushed on past that hump and clamped past the hump to keep it on.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 4
From: Okinawa Okinawa
I can only see one pic in your profile. If those are the lines, they are facing the engine, not the radiator. Is that the pic you are talking about? If so, don't think those are the right lines. Both should point toward the rad and hook into the rubber hoses coming off the radiator.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
The lines look correct except they are both bent 90 degrees upward. They both run under the lower radiator hose. The ends are correct after straighting the lines one will be pointing up that goes to the top of the top of the radiator the one pointing to the right goes to the bottom.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
OK, I found your pictures. The long section of the lines that you have pointing straight up is the portion that needs to be under the crossmember. Once you get that pulled back under the crossmember the other parts will be correct.
This pic shows the bottom line on the radiator connected to the line with only one bend on the end.
This pic shows the long section (that you have pointing straight up) being routed under the crossmember.
This pic shows the bottom line on the radiator connected to the line with only one bend on the end.
This pic shows the long section (that you have pointing straight up) being routed under the crossmember.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 102
Likes: 1
From: St. Jacob IL
Thanks all. That is actually quite helpful. Looking at those and then looking at my lines in the limited time I had this past weekend, I don't think that I'm going to get them under the front crossmember. Thanks, My76, for the info on not cutting them! After I read your post I took the dust covers off and sure enough there was the flange 
I think I am going to get longer flex tube and route the lines along where the air conditioning lines USED to run. I have removed the A/C system on mine (it was non-functional anyway) and so I may use the bracket for the condenser to mount external oil and transmission line coolers. I took a mandrel bender and bent the hard lines out of the way of the fan and so after I get the soft lines run I will zip tie everything up so it can't move around.
I think I am going to get longer flex tube and route the lines along where the air conditioning lines USED to run. I have removed the A/C system on mine (it was non-functional anyway) and so I may use the bracket for the condenser to mount external oil and transmission line coolers. I took a mandrel bender and bent the hard lines out of the way of the fan and so after I get the soft lines run I will zip tie everything up so it can't move around.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 65
From: Kissimmee fl
Finalist 2021 C3 of the Year - Modified
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St. Jude Donor '07
Here is a little trick I use when dealing with rubber to hard line connections. After cutting the hard line, deburring the inside, I slip the end of the tubing into a compression fitting of the appropriate size. Tighten the fitting to the tubing as you would normally. Next, remove the fitting, slide the nut away from the ferrul, cut the nut off leaving the ferrul on the line. Slip the rubber hose over the tubing past the bulge of the ferrul and install the hose clamp. Now you havve a no slip connection. 
Last edited by c69vete; Apr 9, 2013 at 08:50 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,236
Likes: 898
From: Myrtle Beach SC
I went thru this drill with my 78 last year. Your rubber hose coolant lines will probably be tight just soak in hot water and it will help to slip them onto the metal coolant lines.
Sounds like you have direction worked out but they should sort of screw in from underneath, dropping below the frame/a-arm and than up into the opening between the radiator and front a-arm end.
Sounds like you have direction worked out but they should sort of screw in from underneath, dropping below the frame/a-arm and than up into the opening between the radiator and front a-arm end.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,520
Likes: 11
From: Hinckley OH
Here is a little trick I use when dealing with rubber to hard line connections. After cutting the hard line, deburring the inside, I slip the end of the tubing into a compression fitting of the appropriate size. Tighten the fitting to the tubing as you would normally. Next, remove the fitting, slide the nut away from the ferrul, cut the nut off leaving the ferrul on the line. Slip the rubber hose over the tubing past the bulge of the ferrul and install the hose clamp. Now you havve a no slip connection.