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Well, I got my new calipers on and started to bleed the brakes. I don't have anyone around this weekend to help me using the traditional 2-person method (which is the only way I've done it before), so I bought the MightyVac MV8000 and thought I'd try that. Good God! My forearms are burning and I can't get a steady stream of brake fluid if my life depended on it. I can't believe there's that much air in the system, but it feels like I've been at it 1/2 the day with this MightyVac and it just seems to come out 1/2 air, 1/2 fluid. Ugh. Without using this thing before, I don't know if that's 'normal,' or not. Beer break.
get 4 old tee shirts or towels on the floor and open the bleeders , keep an eye on the master cylinder. close the bleeders as they start to run . thats as easy as it gets. sometimes it takes a while sometimes not.
get 4 old tee shirts or towels on the floor and open the bleeders , keep an eye on the master cylinder. close the bleeders as they start to run . thats as easy as it gets. sometimes it takes a while sometimes not.
I think we have a winner! Gonna' give my forearms a break, turn on the MICHIGAN game (Go Blue!) and call it good.
motor city, i have used the mightyvac for brake fluid bleeding,works quite well but is slow going.one thing to note is,after drawing a vacuum with your hose on the bleeder snug,when you crack open the bleeder there is a tendency for drawing in air at the bleeder threads,hence the air fluid mix after many tries.i put a small amount of grease at the base of the bleeder threads,this will stop the air draw at the threads and the vacum bleed will work properly.just clean that grease off when done at that caliper.worth a try.
I bought one quite a few years ago and had the same problem. The air isn't coming out of your brake system. It's air that's being pulled in from around the threads of the brake bleeders when you loosen them. Try to just crack them like 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn. Put some grease around the bleeder where it threads into the caliper. That should take care of the air bubbles that you are seeing. If all else fails, wait until you have a second person around and do it the old fashioned way. That's what I do, now. I even tried the Motive brake bleeder and wasn't all that impressed with that one, either.
Duane
I've never heard a negative comment about Motive bleeders. I personally made one from directions on the net but have yet to use it. You can make one for about $20 or so.
Somebody around here suggested using a shop vac. I would do that if I didn't have a pressure bleeder.....never could those mityvac things to work for me.
Of course, as you'll note by the responses - the pressure bleeder is the hot ticket.
get 4 old tee shirts or towels on the floor and open the bleeders , keep an eye on the master cylinder. close the bleeders as they start to run . thats as easy as it gets. sometimes it takes a while sometimes not.
This is the way to go, did my 81 this way and it worked fine.
I have been bleeding brakes since 1983. Used to do the 2 person method, then got a miti-vac a few years ago. Thought I would share my new process which I think is the absolute easiest.
I just learned this method from my BIL who is a GM mechanic. He laughed at my vacuum contraption and showed me how he does it at the dealership. Take a piece of clear hose and stick in a quart of fluid, cap the end with your finger like a straw so it is full of fluid and put it on the bleeder. Just barely crack the bleeder and let it run until fluid drips out. s-l-o-w-l-y push pedal in with bleeder just BARELY cracked. when you let up on the pedal you can see the air bubble move back up the hose a bit but not into the caliper. eventually the air bubble gets pushed further through the hose (think 2" fwd, 1/2" back with eacy cycle). You don't need to keep opening and closing the bleeder, just leave it cracked.
I was truly amazed at how simple and easy it is. Key is to go slow on the pedal. I think it is the same concept as those speed-bleeders you can buy with the check valve in them.
get 4 old tee shirts or towels on the floor and open the bleeders , keep an eye on the master cylinder. close the bleeders as they start to run . thats as easy as it gets. sometimes it takes a while sometimes not.
It's that simple, just open the bleeder untill solid fluid comes out. And the nice thing about doing it like this is it only takes a few moments per wheel each time you have your wheels off.
I've done the gravity method as well as the Motive Bleeder. I use either depending on the circumstances and repairs done. I've never used the Mightyvac method but it sounds like it isn't the way to go. It also helps to have speed bleeders. They have a check ball in them that doesn't allow air or fluid back into the calipers while bleeding the brakes. I use clear hoses that go into empty milk jugs to collect the expelled fluid. Try the gravity method first. If that doesn't get the results that you want then spring for the Motive bleeder.
Gravity all the way, start at the right rear, then to left rear, right front, then driver side. always keeping an eye on fluid level in master cylinder. I am 67 years old and have done a few of these. If you lost all your fluid while replacing the calipers you might want to bench bleed the master before you start. good luck
Last edited by Phil Zell; Apr 10, 2013 at 07:19 PM.
I, too, have used the gravity bleed method many times and it always works. The only problem is that it's time consuming.
How long does it usually take?
Great stuff here as I need to bleed mine also (my park brake light is on and I've determined that it's not the handle-switch - so it probably means I have air in the line - correct??)
Just put new rear calipers on my '80. Gravity worked great and didn't take but a few minutes for each side. It would have been neater to run a clear tube from each bleeder to a jug on the floor but I just let it drip into a pan. The master cylinder was watched carefully to keep it full. No problems and I have a good pedal now. My brake light went out on the first test drive. Happy now!
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
I use power bleeder now.
Originally Posted by Duane4238
I bought one quite a few years ago and had the same problem. The air isn't coming out of your brake system. It's air that's being pulled in from around the threads of the brake bleeders when you loosen them. Try to just crack them like 1/8 or 1/4 of a turn. Put some grease around the bleeder where it threads into the caliper. That should take care of the air bubbles that you are seeing. If all else fails, wait until you have a second person around and do it the old fashioned way. That's what I do, now. I even tried the Motive brake bleeder and wasn't all that impressed with that one, either.
Duane
Originally Posted by MrJlr
Got so pissed trying to use the mightyvac, I threw it in the trash (wish I hadn't...!)
Bought a Motive bleeder....never looked back...awesome tool
I gave up on the mighty vac and now use it to test my vac advance canisters. I use the Power bleeder and it works great once u get it sealed up on top the master cylinder - utill u do that u will put plenty of fluid on the floor.