81 dies on acceleration. Need some E4ME and computer help.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 956
Likes: 86
From: McDonough Georgia
OK, Ive got the code 12 and no others.
Will check the fuel delivery.
I have a vacuum gauge similar to the one shown. Didnt realise it can do pressure as well. Will have a look and try it.
Havent got a spark tester, may have to invest!
Ive rebuilt a couple of qjets before. Is there any major difference between the older ones and the comp one?
Will check the fuel delivery.
I have a vacuum gauge similar to the one shown. Didnt realise it can do pressure as well. Will have a look and try it.
Havent got a spark tester, may have to invest!
Ive rebuilt a couple of qjets before. Is there any major difference between the older ones and the comp one?
The CCC qjet is different and the older models will not work.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 8
From: Redruth Cornwall
Lanny, PM received and will reply when finished work. Thanks.
Racer
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 448
Likes: 21
From: Klein Texas
I meant is there any major difference from a rebuild point of view apart from the tools required.
There is also a t shaped wrench that helps turn all the weird shaped adjustment tools. I haven't found a pic of it on the web.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,056
Likes: 8
From: Redruth Cornwall
Finally got some time to go throught the MC solenoid test in the shop manual.
I first measured the resistance of the solenoid and it was 22 ohms. I then tried connecting a 9 volt battery to the solenoid connections to see if it clicked which it didnt so I thought it was simply a faulty MC solenoid. With key in on position, unplugging/plugging in connector at MC solenoid mad no clicking.
Shop Manual Test.
Key on. Check voltage at MC dwell lead. Got 11.7 volts.
Over 10 volts, check voltage at ECM terminal 18.
Removed ECM, cleaned up all connections and did the test. ( What a PITA to get to! ) and to me the shop manual pin layout seems to contradict itself on the connector layout page and the page opposite showing ECM replacement.
Anyway, voltage at terminal 18 was 5.08 volts. Not sure how it can be 5.08 volts at the origin of the wire and 11.7 at the end!
This then tells me I need to replace the open in SOL/ECM wire.
Does this mean run a new cable from ecm to to the solenoid and if so, to what terminal? In the other part of the test procedure it mentions a pink wire but although mine a very dirty, it looks like I have a brown and black wire going to the solenoid.
I assume it means from terminal 18 to the same point as the dwell connector.
I first measured the resistance of the solenoid and it was 22 ohms. I then tried connecting a 9 volt battery to the solenoid connections to see if it clicked which it didnt so I thought it was simply a faulty MC solenoid. With key in on position, unplugging/plugging in connector at MC solenoid mad no clicking.
Shop Manual Test.
Key on. Check voltage at MC dwell lead. Got 11.7 volts.
Over 10 volts, check voltage at ECM terminal 18.
Removed ECM, cleaned up all connections and did the test. ( What a PITA to get to! ) and to me the shop manual pin layout seems to contradict itself on the connector layout page and the page opposite showing ECM replacement.
Anyway, voltage at terminal 18 was 5.08 volts. Not sure how it can be 5.08 volts at the origin of the wire and 11.7 at the end!
This then tells me I need to replace the open in SOL/ECM wire.
Does this mean run a new cable from ecm to to the solenoid and if so, to what terminal? In the other part of the test procedure it mentions a pink wire but although mine a very dirty, it looks like I have a brown and black wire going to the solenoid.
I assume it means from terminal 18 to the same point as the dwell connector.
Last edited by jotto; Apr 15, 2013 at 03:53 PM.
