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75 corvette 4speed issue

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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 09:07 PM
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Default 75 corvette 4speed issue

So took my recently purchased 75 corvette out for a spin today, check all fluids like normal. Took it on a 10 mile run,

Got her up to speed a few times nothing crazy, maybe broke 3500 rpm at the most

Stop for a second and then flip around and hauled butt for about a 1/2 mile back to the house, when I was pulling in yard the motor was ticking pretty loud and when I went to pull it into the garage. It wouldn't go into 1st

I could get it to go into every gear and when letting the clutch out everything was fine. But when putting it in 1st it would either kill the car when letting the clutch out or it would grind and I could feel it thru the shifter.

Any ideas? I think I have narrowed the motor issue down to a rocker but the trans has me stumped
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Old Apr 24, 2013 | 11:37 PM
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Well I figured out that my 1st gear is trying to go to far, if I'm very gentle when putting it in 1st it works perfectly but if I'm a little more firm with going into gear that's when I have an issue.

So is there a rod adjustment that I can do to prevent going to far?
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 10:20 AM
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You're definitely going to have to check the adjustments on the shifter. You've got the Borg Warner Super T-10. Jack up the car, put some stands underneath it and take a look. Hopefully you've got the Factory Service Manual or FSM and the AIM, because it's not a lightweight thing to deal with.

You'll be checking for loose bolts on the rod, because if they work themselves loose, you'll have shifting problems (ask me how I know...). You're going to need a 0.644 gauge to put in the neutral slot in each shifter bellcrank, 1st & 2nd, 3rd and 4th and finally reverse. This helps align neutral in all gears and of course, each of the gears on the trans has to be in the neutral position (you can verify this by looking to see if the tabs sticking out of the transmission for 1-2, 3-4 and Reverse are perfectly vertical.

The Reverse one is tough to slot the 0.644 gauge and you'll have to have someone push the shifter lever to the mechanical limit against the side, because there's barely any room for the gauge alongside the shifter.

This isn't an easy adjustment and it will take you awhile to pull this off.
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 11:16 AM
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if you look closely at the bottom of the shifter toward the rear, you will see shallow semicircular notches in the lever arms(the parts that move front to back when you change gears). rather than using the metal tool inserted into the alignment slot, these grooves can be lined-up to place the shifter into neutral position when adjusting the throw arms. just double check that the grooves remain in position after you fiddle with the trans adjustment. i could never get the metal adjustment tool into the shifter, so i paint these grooves white. a bubba technique.
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by jnb5101
if you look closely at the bottom of the shifter toward the rear, you will see shallow semicircular notches in the lever arms(the parts that move front to back when you change gears). rather than using the metal tool inserted into the alignment slot, these grooves can be lined-up to place the shifter into neutral position when adjusting the throw arms. just double check that the grooves remain in position after you fiddle with the trans adjustment. i could never get the metal adjustment tool into the shifter, so i paint these grooves white. a bubba technique.
Good one! Next time I hafta do it, I'll look for those notches. The metal adjustment tool ain't easy, but it can be done!!!
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Old Apr 25, 2013 | 08:26 PM
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Thanks guys I will get on that this weekend.
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