I was driving my 69 in front of a buddy in traffic today and he said that the car looked like it was sagging on the drivers side. What would cause this? :confused:

 

Too many double cheeseburgers :lol:

 

Hey Joe check for schimms on the pass side.

Yellow 72 That was funny!

 

My '71 too has a slight list to port.

Like I told the dumbazz that pointed it out to me
"It was designed that way to corner better" :yesnod:


[Modified by shoptek, 8:57 PM 6/21/2002]

 

Uneven loading (driver only) over 39 years will take its toll on springs. Replace'em and the list to port will disappear.

 

My 73 does the same... about a 3/4" sag in drivers rear (a comment like this should stir some comments :lol: )

I replaced the rear spring and no difference.

Oh such is life. :cheers:

 

73 and later Vettes use body cushions to isolate the frame from the body. These will also compress over time.

 

Even after new fiberglass spring and replacement of badly rusted #4 body mounts, my '72 still leans to the left. Seems that lots of people have this problem.

 

This is difference topic but relate to the problem and the question is for vettenut72 and anybody that replaced the #4 supporting bracket.Do you have to lift up the body and how or any instruction would be appreciated.

 

It was a real PITA to replace the #4 mounts. The frame bracket, bushing and bolt had all fused together into one mass and the Mount itself which attaches to the fiberglass, was almost completely rotted away. I placed wet towels everywhere and a friend brought over his "blue wrench" and we cut out all the bad stuff. I was able to save the frame mounts. Bubba had previously worked on this car many times in its past life and he did a good one on the right side inside mount. He fiberglassed it in! When I replaced everything (had to chip out all the fiberglass) I used screws and loktite to hold the inner and outer mounts together instead of poprivits which are stronger and easily removed without drilling. I used poly mounts to replace the solid metal bushings that were there originally.

PITA factor : up there with my trailing arm replacement but thats another story.

 

You can check the archives, this has been posted before. My 69 was the same way. The distance from the frame to the ground was very close to being equal measuring from the same points on each side, but not the body. Up to and including 72, they used aluminum pucks between the frame and body plus steel shims. In 73 they went to a rubber isolator puck to reduce a great deal of vibration from the chassis to the body. I upgraded to them when I did my body off restoration.

The simple consensus seems to be that most C3's lean with the passenger side being higher. The bodies must have been jigged wrong. Mine was out by nearly 3/4's of an inch at the back and about 5/8's inch in front.

You can crack the body if not done properly, but an equal number of shims needs to be either added or subtracted from one side or the other to make it sit level. DON'T JUST ADD SHIMS TO THE BACK CORNER MAKING IT APPEAR LEVEL AT THE REAR! YOU WILL TWIST THE BODY AND CRACK SOMETHING EITHER SOON OR DOWN THE ROAD* (pun intended) ;)

The car is bolted to the chassis at 4 points on each side, plus the bumpers.

Chuck