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If the power valve had a very, very small tear in it, or was loose, it could leak right into the manifold. I'd try to eliminate other possible causes before I started ripping into the carb, though. Just out of curiosity, how long has this been going on? Ever since you got the car? It might not be a bad idea to re-build the carb, anyway. It's not that bad, just dis-assemble, clean, and re-assemble with new gaskets. This article does a pretty good job of describing the process:
@Hondamaker - Based on my experience, I would recommend you get rid of the double pumper and replace it with a Holley Street Avenger. I just did this and I am very happy with the results. I fought the double pumper installed by the previous owner for 5 years before I wised up and realized I did not need a racing carburetor for the street. I set up the Street Avenger on the bench according to the advice in Lars' papers and it runs perfectly. Better low end throttle response, better fuel mileage, no hesitation or bogging. And, as an added bonus, I no longer have any gas smell in my garage after driving.
Hope this helps.
DC
If rebuilding doesn't help, I'll probably get a new carb.
Lets make sure of what we're actually dealing with first. I've heard people call all kinds of Holley carbs double pumpers. What is the LIST number on the front of the choke plate housing? That will tell us what we're dealing with here. You're going to need to know it to order a re-build kit anyway.
Also, you don't necessarily need a new carb. You can find rebuild-able Holley 1850 carbs on the internet for less than 50 bucks, and an 1850 (600 cfm vacuum secondary carb) would be perfect for your basically stock engine. Once you start re-building carbs, you may find that it is kind of enjoyable, I know I do, especially Holley carbs; they're like Lego carbs, very easy to take apart and put back together.
Scott
Last edited by scottyp99; May 18, 2013 at 05:27 PM.
First , Before you start the car next time ,,open hood.. remove air cleaner and check float levels on the carb to be sure it is full of gas. Also notice the smell does it have a strong gas smell.
Ok so no heavy fuel smell float bowls are full... Crank motor with out touching the gas at all , and as she turns depress the gas pedal 1/4 of the way and i bet it fires up easy.
If you smell gas or have empty float bowls ,, well check to see why. it aint rocket science
Lets make sure of what we're actually dealing with first. I've heard people call all kinds of Holley carbs double pumpers. What is the LIST number on the front of the choke plate housing? That will tell us what we're dealing with here. You're going to need to know it to order a re-build kit anyway.
Also, you don't necessarily need a new carb. You can find rebuild-able Holley 1850 carbs on the internet for less than 50 bucks, and an 1850 (600 cfm vacuum secondary carb) would be perfect for your basically stock engine. Once you start re-building carbs, you may find that it is kind of enjoyable, I know I do, especially Holley carbs; they're like Lego carbs, very easy to take apart and put back together.
Scott
I would like to learn how to rebuild one. I think it would be interesting. I'll get that number when I get the chance.
First , Before you start the car next time ,,open hood.. remove air cleaner and check float levels on the carb to be sure it is full of gas. Also notice the smell does it have a strong gas smell.
Ok so no heavy fuel smell float bowls are full... Crank motor with out touching the gas at all , and as she turns depress the gas pedal 1/4 of the way and i bet it fires up easy.
If you smell gas or have empty float bowls ,, well check to see why. it aint rocket science
It is rocket science to me. I dont know **** about carburetors!
It is rocket science to me. I dont know **** about carburetors!
My Dad used to say: "If you don't want to pay an expert, you have to become an expert." Don't worry, by the time this is over, you'll be a lot smarter about carburetors than you are now. Even if you were willing to dish out the money, it's getting harder and harder to find people who know their way around a carb, so you're best off learning about them, and doing it yourself. This article does a pretty good job of explaining how carbs in general work:
I have confidence that you are smart enough to handle re-building a Holley carb, mostly because you are one of the few people who actually knows how to spell the word "carburetor"!
Scott
Last edited by scottyp99; May 19, 2013 at 01:38 PM.
I had a similar problem with an old Ford Escort. It'd start well warm but after sitting a number of hours it was flooded and reluctant to start. I pulled off the air cleaner after it had sat overnight and could see a pool of fuel in the intake. I took it to a shop and told them I thought the needle and seat were leaking and as the car sat the residual pressure in the fuel lines was forcing gas past the needle and seat and into the intake. The young mechanic told me that was impossible - I think he was wrong.
My Dad used to say: "If you don't want to pay an expert, you have to become an expert." Don't worry, by the time this is over, you'll be a lot smarter about carburetors than you are now. Even if you were willing to dish out the money, it's getting harder and harder to find people who know their way around a carb, so you're best off learning about them, and doing it yourself. This article does a pretty good job of explaining how carbs in general work:
I have confidence that you are smart enough to handle re-building a Holley carb, mostly because you are one of the few people who actually knows how to spell the word "carburetor"!
Scott
Haha, thanks. I took my car to a guy who says he knows Holley carburetors and he has 6 corvettes. After a bit, he says there's nothing really wrong with it. It's not flooding out, I'm just not starting it right when it's warm and been sitting for a bit. He showed me I have to just give it a little gas and it starts right up. Problem is, when the engine is hot, it gets no spark! Just like some of you suggested I check. So I'm on my way to get my coil and a module checked out.
Haha, thanks. I took my car to a guy who says he knows Holley carburetors and he has 6 corvettes. After a bit, he says there's nothing really wrong with it. It's not flooding out, I'm just not starting it right when it's warm and been sitting for a bit. He showed me I have to just give it a little gas and it starts right up. Problem is, when the engine is hot, it gets no spark! Just like some of you suggested I check. So I'm on my way to get my coil and a module checked out.
Replaced the ignition coil, so far so good. I hope that fixed it!
Replaced the ignition coil, so far so good. I hope that fixed it!
He's back! Thought we lost you there for a bit........
So, new coil, and it starts normally now? I guess the old saying is true: 90 percent of carburetor problems are actually ignition problems. I'm glad you finally got it all sorted out, hopefully.
I had the same thing happen in my Camaro, problem was the pickup in the distributor. If it got hot it wouldn't start. (accel seems to be know for it, switch to an msd and it went away).
You could also make your own. If you do, make sure it extends under the fuel bowls.
When I installed the Holley heat shield, I had to cut and modify it a bit to clear the rear vacuum port on the intake and to clear the thermostat housing.
@Hondamaker - Based on my experience, I would recommend you get rid of the double pumper and replace it with a Holley Street Avenger. I just did this and I am very happy with the results. I fought the double pumper installed by the previous owner for 5 years before I wised up and realized I did not need a racing carburetor for the street. I set up the Street Avenger on the bench according to the advice in Lars' papers and it runs perfectly. Better low end throttle response, better fuel mileage, no hesitation or bogging. And, as an added bonus, I no longer have any gas smell in my garage after driving.
Hope this helps.
DC
Do you have a link to Lars' papers? My Holley has a heavy gas smell.
I got rid of most of the gas smell by re-installing the vapor canister the previous owner left off but I still could smell gas in the garage after parking the car. I installed new floats and got them properly adjusted which helped but did not eliminate the smell. A heat shield under the double pumper made some improvement as well but getting rid of the double pumper for a Street Avenger ended the smell. I'm not saying it's because the previous carb was a double pumper. Mine may have just been a victim of bubba but I'm happy with the swap.
He's back! Thought we lost you there for a bit........
So, new coil, and it starts normally now? I guess the old saying is true: 90 percent of carburetor problems are actually ignition problems. I'm glad you finally got it all sorted out, hopefully.
Scott
Starts great so far. Looks like the coil was the problem. I have the original Rochester Quadrajet carb so I'm looking into having it rebuilt and reinstalled. Does anyone think thats a bad idea?