I don't want to get into the middle of a feud, but I have worked with chassis dynos, as well as many other testing tools such as flow benches, etc.., for many years. I know and have worked with the guy who started Dynojet. In almost all testing equipment when you measure something, there are calculations involved. I don't see where the argument is. Inertia dyno's are measuring HP by measuring how quickly the drum is accelerated, the work being done, which is horsepower. They calculate the the HP from the acceleration rate. Without calculations, you can't measure anything.

 

I already said I'm using one of these

 

The 4 bolt pattern is to move the starter closer or further from the crank center line to allow you to use it with either size of flex plate. It's an alternative mounting instead of using the staggered bolt pattern. Double check to make sure that your block has all 3 starter mounting holes and then you can use one of those starters instead of the more expensive staggered pattern starters. Look at the list below that Kid Vette posted for GM applications.



Excellent, that gives the OP lots of applications to search for. He should be able to find one of those p/n's for $100 or less.

As for the bolt holes. I've owned a 350 without the 3 holes. It was a mid 70's '010 block. So, it's not just the 400's that might be missing the hole. The hole is likely there, but it would be prudent to check before buying a starter that needs it.




You could have just posted that a 168T starter is available as a GM part and given the p/n. Kid Vette was kind enough to give the info. Why do y have to turn everything into a dramatic personal attack? You post up an aftermarket part implying I'm crazy for saying I think the GM mini-starters were all 158T appliations and then you drag up the dyno thread crap which proves you're obviously not over it. With the way you act online, I hope I never meet you in person.

 

Come on guys, go for a drive and forget about it. Al

 

I checked my starter out again last night. I have a staggered bolt starter that also has holes inline. Three mounting holes I'm the starter. My block is only drilled and tapped for the staggered holes. My block is the numbers matching L48 for my car

 

If your block only had the 2 staggered holes then you're either drilling and tapping the 3rd hole or using a staggered bolt pattern starters. Try something like this;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BIG-BLOCK-CHEVY-PMGR-MINI-STARTER-2-0-HP-168-TOOTH-283-327-350-396-427-454-502-/300792043253?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item46089a56f5
Do a Google image search for 168 tooth mini starter to find the staggered bolt pattern starters.

 

I put one of those ebay starters on my '81 about two years ago. I knew when I got it that it was a throw-away starter as there were no parts (solenoid) available for it....but it has worked 100%, flawless as can be.
Now I do not drive the '81 a lot, about three times a month until last April when I took it off the road for repainting.

The starter spins the engine sooo nicely....and NO heat soaking no starts!

I also have side pipes / headers so installation was nice and easy.

 

Just in case you need to drill a missing inner hole, here is what you need: Chevy Starter Drill Jig

 

That's an interesting kit, but you could buy a staggered bolt starter for less than the kit and a straight bolt starter would cost.

I'm still finding this thread rather humorous. Good thing he didn't order the Jegs starter someone else was recommending...

 

Of course that would only work if you were using a 168 tooth flywheel.

If you wanted to use a 153 tooth flywheel, then you would need to drill the hole in the block (if it was missing) and use an inline bolt starter. And of course you would need the matching bellhousing.

I think this one is definitely dead.

 

Good to know just got a $70 ebay Hitachi to try.

 

I was over at my other place after work so I checked Dad's original '78 block. His doesn't have the 3rd starter hole either.

 

That is correct, "There are two types of chassis dynamometers on the market, inertia and loading. An inertia dynamometer (such as DynoJet) does not measure torque, but measures acceleration. It then calculates TQ by using the well known formula Torque = Horsepower * 5252 / RPM."

A good read for those who don't understand this principle of how an Inertia Dyno works or the basic understanding of horse power. http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/archi...123629978.html

[QUOTECome on guys, go for a drive and forget about it. Al[/QUOTE]

That's good advice, that and the fact I can't see any of his posts makes this such a great place

 

After I installed my sidepipes I decided to reuse my original starter since its been problem free and there is plenty of room with the side mount headers installed. May be when I get a new crate motor Ill go to a mini starter. I love this place and all the information about corvettes. This is my first corvette after years of hoping to own one

 

That's so incomplete it's sickening to try and pass off as fact. I'd like to know where it's quoted from because it didn't come from the link, well not without purposely piecing together bits and pieces to misquote the source.

The first thing every dyno calculates is the rotating torque at the dyno roller shaft using the acceleration rate of the drum. Actually, I suppose it first calculates the acceleration rate and then calculates the torque. It then calculates HP at the roller shaft. Using the rpm pickup, it then back calculates the torque vs engine rpm automatically accounting for the total drivetrain gearing. You could modify the software to enter the drivetrain gearing and come up with a torque vs engine rpm curve without once calculating HP. Just ask and I will show anyone who doesn't believe me how to mathematically do so.