About to replace rad support, any tips?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 283
Likes: 1
From: The Netherlands EUR
About to replace rad support, any tips?
Hi guys, i am about to change my radiator support as the original is rusted completely through beyond repair. Found a reasonable one which i had blasted and painted. Removed the hood, but do i need to support the car or front with the rad frame removed? I know my 80 vette is a bit flexible and the rad support connects both sides of the front end of the nose, and i dont want the front end to collapse without the support.
Any tips?
Any tips?
Last edited by rene040269; Jun 9, 2013 at 05:56 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 67
From: Warrington PA
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
Hi guys, i am about to change my radiator support as the original is rusted completely through beyond repair. Found a reasonable one which i had blasted and painted. Removed the hood, but do i need to support the car or front with the rad frame removed? I know my 80 vette is a bit flexible and the rad support connects both sides of the front end of the nose, and i dont want the front end to collapse without the support.
Any tips?
Any tips?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 8,117
Likes: 104
From: charlotte north carolina
place jack stands under each side at the frame extension area. also, attach the hood and hinges so that you can shim the rad support in order to adjust front to back dimensions.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 283
Likes: 1
From: The Netherlands EUR
Ok, i did not realised there is some adjustment of the support involved, thought just to unbolt and throw away the old one and bolt in the new one. I have discovered a lot of shims under the hinges and the hood-opener or what is that strip called which holds the hood in an open position.
I will post some pics of the operation.
I will post some pics of the operation.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 67
From: Warrington PA
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
Ok, i did not realised there is some adjustment of the support involved, thought just to unbolt and throw away the old one and bolt in the new one. I have discovered a lot of shims under the hinges and the hood-opener or what is that strip called which holds the hood in an open position.
I will post some pics of the operation.
I will post some pics of the operation.
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
Likes: 1,482
From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Index and mark the shims you find before you remove them. Reinstall them with the replacement support. Once things are back in place, you can determine whether any of the shims could be removed.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 283
Likes: 1
From: The Netherlands EUR
OK, started the job: Removed the hood which provided much more space to work in and removed the radiator and hoses.
The radiator support is completely shot and rusted through at the lower end:
This is the bottom end....
I have noticed since the lower part is completely gone and the fact that the radiator support connects to the chassis by means of the 2 lower bolts on each side, it seems that the entire nose of the car is a bit wobbly now it is not connected to the chassis anymore.
The front torsion bar has a slight bend in it, but is is symmetrical on both sides so i assume this is normal?
I want to clean up the chassis with a wire wheel en undercover coating and get the car roadworthy for a couple of years but i know i can start saving money for a complete body-off restoration. The amount of rust is quite large and also the lower a-arms are a bit crunchy. Luckily the damage looks much worse than it is, i can easily wire-wheel the rust of and recoat the chassis. I know it is a temporary fix but my main concern is to stop it from rusting any further.
Anyway, i will clean up all the mess in the engine bay and will put this one in, at least one part of the Vette which is rustfree....
The radiator support is completely shot and rusted through at the lower end:
This is the bottom end....
I have noticed since the lower part is completely gone and the fact that the radiator support connects to the chassis by means of the 2 lower bolts on each side, it seems that the entire nose of the car is a bit wobbly now it is not connected to the chassis anymore.
The front torsion bar has a slight bend in it, but is is symmetrical on both sides so i assume this is normal?
I want to clean up the chassis with a wire wheel en undercover coating and get the car roadworthy for a couple of years but i know i can start saving money for a complete body-off restoration. The amount of rust is quite large and also the lower a-arms are a bit crunchy. Luckily the damage looks much worse than it is, i can easily wire-wheel the rust of and recoat the chassis. I know it is a temporary fix but my main concern is to stop it from rusting any further.
Anyway, i will clean up all the mess in the engine bay and will put this one in, at least one part of the Vette which is rustfree....
Last edited by rene040269; Jun 16, 2013 at 04:49 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 2,248
Likes: 67
From: Warrington PA
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
If you are concerned about the front end being wobblely, just cut a 2x4 to size and attach to the top holes in the side support frame.
On the rust, just take your time, work in one area at a time, replace parts needed and do what has to be done.
Your front sway bar is fine.....
On the rust, just take your time, work in one area at a time, replace parts needed and do what has to be done.
Your front sway bar is fine.....
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1975 Coupe w/air removing radiator
Hello need some advice in removing radiator and shroud from a 1975 coupe w/air, I have removed the fan and pulley and removed all the bolts on the sides and the upper and lower supports but it still seems stuck.
This is in part of replacing the heater core which I am still in process of doing and I damaged the radiator drain plug while draining.
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What more do I need to remove to pull radiator?