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I stopped by the driveshaft place today, they wanted 175 bucks to shorten the driveshaft. I got them down to 125 by providing the new u-joints myself. IDK, that sounds like a lot of money to cut something and weld it back together, maybe there's more too it than that. They were gonna charge me 25 bucks apiece for u-joints, though, maybe they just charge high prices.
Scott
That does seem a little high, but not unreasonable. About 3.5 years ago, I paid a shop a little less than $100 to shorten mine and install new u-joints (that I provided).
That does seem a little high, but not unreasonable. About 3.5 years ago, I paid a shop a little less than $100 to shorten mine and install new u-joints (that I provided).
Cost-of-living here in Massachusetts is a little higher than in Tennessee, that is probably the difference. Hey, the driveshaft place has bills to pay, too, just like you and me, I guess.
Cost-of-living here in Massachusetts is a little higher than in Tennessee, that is probably the difference. Hey, the driveshaft place has bills to pay, too, just like you and me, I guess.
Seems like a lot for the driveline. But remember that shaft is pretty close . The shaft needs to .002- .003 at the yoke ends and no more than .007 in the middle. The closer the better. I worked in a machine shop that did driveline work. Some need to be balanced . So you are looking at 1 to 2hr job. New u-joints are always a plus - just get good ones don't cheap out. Spicer rules !
I just received the Bowtie crossmember yesterday. It looks like a real quality piece of merchandise. Nice looking welds, powder coated black, comes with a transmission mount and hardware, too. 195 clams, not too shabby. I'll let ya know how it fits once I get it installed.
Update, I just received the Shiftworks shifter conversion today, It looks like a quality product, but the instructions it comes with are crummy. Not much help at all, really. I'm going to see if I can find something on the internet in the way of a video or something.