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Just took off the wheels to see why the parking brake got stuck up about a year ago and even though I'm still not very experienced with cars, to me it doesn't look very good. Do you think these brakes (if able to be fixed) are good enough to at least move the car out of the garage? Or should I just get started on replacing the entire thing?
Sorry if the pictures arent the best I wasnt really sure what exactly to take a photo of haha
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Time to remove and replace...
Looks like the calipers and rotors are the original ones your Vette left the factory with.
You will have to drill out the rivets and replace all of that.
Better take a close look at the trailing arms too.
That's just surface rust on the rotor, it will scrape off the first time you hit the brake pedal. It's got nothing to do with and has no effect on your basic problem.
The rotors and calipers appear to be original. The rivets are still in the rotors as Pete stated. Exhaust and shocks are not original. Frame does not look bad from what I can see. Trailing arms may have never been apart but could have been disassembled without drilling out rotor rivets. Reuse of rotors may come down to condition of inner hub where the p-brake shoes ride. Mine were worn in this area due to wear from bad p-brake parts. Rust in the metal of the trailing arms may prevent their reuse but you will not know for sure until they are cleaned up. Take the calipers off and split the halves. Look for stainless steel sleeves in the piston bores. If the bores are pitted and a dark gray color then they have not been SS sleeved. If bright metal and smooth after cleaning as I did in the following link then they are sleeved. Good luck with it. The guys here can get it back on the road. mike...
You will be happier, but more importantly, much safer, if you replace rotors, calipers, pads. maybe even hubs.
Not really a great expense, especially if you do the work. A speed bleeder can be rented, borrowed, or purchased.
Once the four wheels are in the air, it is just time consuming, not labor intensive, or lack of access to the work area.
An air wrench helps, especially with the caliper bolts, but a breaker bar will suffice.
Certainly look at replacing the lines and hoses, booster, maybe even the master cylinder. I would imagine the cylinder bores are completely corroded. If you were building a replacement engine, would you consider attaching any part that was in the condition of the brake parts?
Last edited by don hall; Jun 20, 2013 at 10:05 AM.
You will be happier, but more importantly, much safer, if
you replace rotors, calipers, pads. maybe even hubs. Not really a great expense, especially if you do the work.
Once the four wheels are in the air, it is just time consuming, not labor intensive or limited access to the work area. An air wrench
helps, especially with the caliper bolts, but a breaker bar will suffice.
A speed bleeder can be rented, borrowed, or purchased.
You can salvage the brakes - but you will be better off in the long run to spend your current efforts on a replacement/upgrade.
Open up the master cylinder...what does it look like in there? Black, funky goo? The worst part for failures aren't in the stuf you can see...if that M/C is full of crap, you need to replace it, and run new ss lines. The rotors are fine, they have plenty of life left in them. But check all four, make sure they all are equally worn. Same with the pads when you get those calipers off. Any uneven wear is another sign of brake trouble.
Take the bleeder nipples off, and rub your thumb roughly over the holes...does the metal rub off, chip, etc? Those calipers look awefully old, and brake fluid eats metal like flies eat crap.
You might have to replace all four. Likely. A kit for all four will set you back around 400 bucks. You'll want to replace the hoses, too, another 20-30 bucks, give or take. The stainless lines will cost, maybe, 20 bucks? A new M/C we'll cost about 30 bucks. So, all day, brakes will set you back about 500. A good investment, IMO.
Agreed is so many ways. Doing that very thing to a 77 now that sat for an extended period. Not too expensive, but can be labor intensive and very frustrating at time. But it has to be done for the car to be safe to drive. Buy good parts and drive it occasionally to keep everything working correctly.
Open up the master cylinder...what does it look like in there? Black, funky goo? The worst part for failures aren't in the stuf you can see...if that M/C is full of crap, you need to replace it
Wouldn't a rebuild kit be just as good?
Drain all the fluid and remove the pistons - look inside the chambers/bore and check for scoring/pitting. If you are good there a $30 rebuild will be enough. Better than a $150 Master Cylinder bill.
Rebuild kits are great, just make sure your bleeders come out first, and have new ones to put in there. Once you break a bleeder off in the caliper, things change. You can get all four rebuilt calipers from your local parts store for about 250 bucks.
oh yeah, a new casting, never rebuilt master cylinder is very inexpensive on amazon.com. Mine is working great so far.
I'm a cheap bastard but the age and the rust you will save yourself a big headache by purchasing the brake kit that many venders have you can tell by looking that those rotors are way to thin anyway....
Another note is that exhaust is trick!!! Get some more pics of that someone spent a lot of time and money on that set up....
You got yourself a nice original vette there BOM! Looks like some light surface rust and replace some rubber bushings after the brakes and you'll be on the road