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Overheating issues - again!

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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 03:37 PM
  #1  
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Default Overheating issues - again!

'69 coupe here - Driving slow or sitting at traffic lights - temperature going up to about 210 degrees in about 60 seconds. Get the car rolling past 40 mpg and temp will hover around 170 degrees. Last season the car would not get over 160 degrees. Not sure whats going on.

-355 Blueprint engine (1,500 miles on it)
-timing and idle adjusted by performance shop last year
-160 degree thermostat
-new water pump
-new Dewitts radiator
-new engine fan & fan clutch (fan is facing correct direction)
-coolant level good & burped of any air pockets
-fan shroud & seals in place
-temperature was tested using infrared camera last year.

Can anyone help me out before I break down and take it to my mechanic?

Last edited by KevinG; Jun 25, 2013 at 03:39 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 03:52 PM
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With the engine cold and off, grab the fan and spin it, if it doesnt stop within say a half turn the clutch is shot. You are describing a problem related to the fan who's purpose is to keep air moving when you are at an idle or moving slowly.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 03:57 PM
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MelWff
With the engine cold and off, grab the fan and spin it, if it doesnt stop within say a half turn the clutch is shot. You are describing a problem related to the fan who's purpose is to keep air moving when you are at an idle or moving slowly.
Just went out to the garage and gave it a few tries (both directions). It stops within about half a turn when spinning with my hand.

bad thermostat perhaps? (that was changed 1,500 miles ago)

Last edited by KevinG; Jun 25, 2013 at 04:45 PM.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 04:57 PM
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I would take that heavy fan clutch assembly off and use a flex a lite fan..Get rid of that weight hanging off the waterpump. Name:  Picture 395.jpg
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 05:53 PM
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Or better yet get an Electric Fan . The best way to check for a defective fan Clutch is : get it good and warm 210 is great open the Hood then have Someone shut off the Engine while You observe the fan. It should stop turning almost immediatly after the Motor stops. At this temperature it should be locked up tight, if it keeps spinning replace the Fan Clutch.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 70LQ4
The best way to check for a defective fan Clutch is : get it good and warm 210 is great open the Hood then have Someone shut off the Engine while You observe the fan. It should stop turning almost immediatly after the Motor stops. At this temperature it should be locked up tight, if it keeps spinning replace the Fan Clutch.
Took it out again. takes about 10 minutes to climb past the 160 degree mark then goes to about 210. Pulled back in the driveway, popped hood open and cut it off while reaching my hand and turning key off. Fan stopped spinning almost immediately.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 09:10 PM
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Just about has to be fan clutch or shroud to radiator seals. Runs cool at highway speeds means its not radiator, rad seals, lower hose or air dam.
Low speed the fan needs to pull as much air as possible through the rad. If the shroud to rad seals are leaking it can bypass air. If the fan clutch is weak it will not pull enough air.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 09:14 PM
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Looks like you have all the right things in place, and assuming that what you say about your set up is current and correct, I’ll make what may sound like a stupid (but cheap) suggestion.

Test it again with your infrared. It may not be actually heating up. If it’s not, you could just have a bad connection at the sender. I had it happen on my ’58 (pickup) – spent a lot of time testing etc., and it was a simple thing that kicked my ****.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 09:49 PM
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Do you have a high flow pump? I had problems until I went back to a standard flow pump.
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Old Jun 25, 2013 | 11:05 PM
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i would also check the timing setting and advance curve. make sure vac. can is on manifold vacuum. not ported carb. vac.
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 07:07 AM
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I always run a 180 thermostat, do away with the fan completely and go to the DeWitt dual spal fans. leaves a ton of room up front and you do not have to worry about the seals.
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by speedreed8
i would also check the timing setting and advance curve. make sure vac. can is on manifold vacuum. not ported carb. vac.
I think the problem is here. Maybe the Vac can diaphram cracked or vac leak somewhere
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
I think the problem is here. Maybe the Vac can diaphram cracked or vac leak somewhere
Tom beat me to it. I chased a similar issue. Simple to pop off the line, ensure manifold vac at carb or port and test canister with a vacuum pump. The symptom reported of sudden change would be representative of this situation.
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 01:21 PM
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210 isn't bad on a hot day how do you know it's 210 ??
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Old Jun 26, 2013 | 01:47 PM
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You said the engine was new, but what about the manifold? Could there be junk built up in the water jackets of the intake manifold? I had this happen once, drove me nuts until I figured it out. The symptoms were similar: temp stay reasonable above 40 mph or so, then would climb above 210 at a stop, or driving slow. I went to an electric fan, new radiator, etc etc until I finally found the problem in the intake water jackets.

Last edited by htown81vette; Jun 26, 2013 at 01:50 PM.
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