I am deep into my 73 including changing the frame. I am installing a T5 conversion. My new frame is a 4speed frame with fixed transmission cross member. I have a bolt in cross member that I can use if need be.

I have a couple of questions before I go any further.

1. Can you remove a T5 once its in the car with a fixed cross member?

2. Is the cross member in the correct location for a T5 as far as where the transmission mount goes?

I plan on dropping the engine and transmission in the frame to test fit but am not to that point yet and figured someone could give me the scoop on this.

 

I don't know if the crossmember is in the correct position for a T5, but I would highly recommend that you make your crossmember removeable. I have a TKO 600 in mine and now I wish I made the mod when the tranny was out....another thing to add to the list.

 

I cant answer 1, because I put my motor and t5 already bolted togther as one unit when I installed mine. As long as you are changing the frame, a removable crossmember sure would come in handy.

The crossmember dont need to be touched as far as location for bolting the trans to it, but the mount itself obviously needs to be altered to accept the tilt of the t5 trans. I put a t5 in my 68, liked it so much I put one in my 77. Heres mine, made from the original mount.

 

That's a good picture. I suppose the change needed will become apparent when I test fit the engine/tranny. I already have my new frame painted but I'm thinking the bolt in might be a commonsense thing to do especially at this stage of the game.

 

Also, if the trans came with its yoke, dont use it if the ujoint gets pressed into it, use one with straps. With the body off...no problem installing the drive shaft, slide it in the trans and lower the other end down from the top, but with the body back on, even with the yoke slid all the way in, there still isnt enough room at the differential end to get it low enough to clear for removal. Good luck.

 

That kind of confirms the need for the cross member to be removable. I don't have a yoke yet, was going to get that from the driveshaft guy. Thanks for the information. It seems if there is a hard way to do something that's what happens for me, this way I can make it easy on myself.

 

Keep us posted on your install along with pics. I've got a T5 sitting in my garage waiting to be installed.

 

I made mine from John's one pictured above.
Note that this mount is for a GM T5.
GM T5 on camaros was mounted tilted, this mount allow you to install the T5 straight up, which is required if you want to use the original clutch linkage.
If you decide to install a GM T5 tilted (with the bellhousing that originaly comes with it) you'll have to switch to hydraulic clutch linkage.

 

I'll do that. I had a almost new T5 that I used in a 66 Shelby for only about 3000 miles up in the attic. Once I started seeing threads about converting I figured since I was not interested in making a ton of torque that the only thing I wanted was a overdrive I looked around and found a place that made a adapter. http://americanpowertrain.com/i-8426...o-ford-t5.html. Funny how the same plate for a Mustang was $59 and this one was so much. Anyway it seems like most folks make their own, but with a complete frame swap and restoration I did not need another job to do so I bought it.

I guess since my T5 was from a Ford I won't have to worry about the mount angle.

My car is a 4speed so I am using all the pedals and clutch linkage that came with the car so my conversion will be pretty easy. One issue I had was the T5 input shaft did not engage very far into the pilot bushing and the hole in the bushing was too small. I did find a bushing that was deeper with about an extra 1/4" flange on the back side now I have enough depth for the input shaft. I still need to take the new bushing and have the hole enlarged. That's about as far as I have gotten. .


I got my new frame all blasted/treated/painted and the old frame stripped. My next task is to modify my new frame (79) at the back end and graft my old (73) rear frame section on so the fuel tank and the rear bumpers will fit. Anybody with any thoughts as to the best way to do that please chime in.

Once I get that all done it's back to work on the suspension and power train

 

Glad it worked out for you. Awesome.

 

But then you'll have to worry about the mounting holes.
You'll have to fab an adapter plate.
Also make sure you get a World Class T5.

 

Here is my mount I made from the stock mount to work with a Ford T5. I had to cut it / fab to get it low enough to get the angles right. I had put a wrong photo in, my first attempt was way to high on the bracket. I removed that photo.









Here is the shifter offset to get it to come out right and in the stock shifter location. As I recall about 5/8" rearward and an 1-1/4" to the drivers side.




The trans mount was way to high in this picture. It has to be much lower.

 

Since I have not dropped my engine/T5 down in the frame yet from your pictures it looks like to get the angle right on the driveshaft to rear I will have to come down some and rearward a tad too.

As soon as I get the 73 rear frame section installed on the new frame the transmission fitment is the next project. I'm sure glad I have a bare frame without the body to contend with. Your pictures bring it all into focus-thanks.

I am beginning to test fit. I have decided to remove the 4 speed cross member and install the bolt in.

Mark

 

A few more photos.

Note the adapter plate and the mount. This version of my mount was way to high. see previous post for newer version.






I found and image of my plate prior to the trans going on:



Also someones drawing I used for making the T5 adapter plate.



From a past post, found this Image.




I also made a word document with a lot of notes from others who have done the conversion that I can email if you send me a PM.

 

I think I am going to cut the section out of the factory mounting plate and have a insert that bolts to the tranny mount. I will have it loose so it is vertically moveable. I can get the pinion angle all set and tack the insert to the mounting plate and then weld. I hope this gives me the correct set up. I have a old cross member from a Mustang that I can make the insert out of. I think it should work out ok. I did read that the pinion angle changes with the weight on the car. I don't exactly understand this since the rear end is bolted in and does not move. We will see I suppose.

 

It's been some time since my last post but I am almost ready to put the body back on the frame.

I am trying to get the tranny set to the correct angle in relation to the pinion angle. So far I have made my tranny crossmember removable and removed the transmission mounting bracket from the crossmember. I have fabricated a new mounting bracket that can be moved vertically on the crossmember and welded at the necessary height.

I do understand that the angle of the transmission output shaft needs to be opposite the angle of the pinion shaft. And if you extended a line straight out from each they need to be parallel.

I have read that basically the tranny winds up being about as high in the tunnel as possible to achieve the correct angle to the rear end.

I checked the pinion shaft angle and it was 1.5 degrees down. In order to achieve a 1.5 degree up angle at the transmission output shaft it appears it will be way up and might be a problem.

In order to help out later I cut the 1" thick bushing at the front of the rear end mount basically in half, this raised the pinion angle to 0 degrees which means that I need the tranny angle to be 0 also, this reduces the height some of the transmission.

When I jack the transmission/engine up to 0 degrees I start to have issues with the power steering pump pulley being real close if not touching the lower control arm mount. I am now wondering if I will have fan/shroud issues as well with the motor set like that.

My plan is to just put a wood block between the transmission and the crossmember until I get the body back on and see how it all fits. I can then move the transmission up and weld the bracket to the crossmember.

I suppose I have a couple of questions, my engine is a 350 the transmission is a Ford T5.

1. Can I get away with any difference between the transmission and the pinion angles, if so how much? (actual experience-no theory please).

2. Has anybody used this combo and how did the p/s pulley and fan/shroud work out with the transmission set so far up in the tunnel?

Sorry for the long drawn out post but thought it might help explain where I am with this deal.

Thanks
Mark

 

Mark, Don't know how high up in the tunnel I am but I can tell ya that the top of my shifter, where it bolts to the trans, comes up to the same height of the hole that was cut for it in the fiberglass. Maybe even a tiny bit higher. At that height I don't have any clearance problems under the hood.

Prior to removal of the old trans I took a measurement from the top of the CM to the bottom of the yoke. Set the T5 angle back at that height and no problems on either conversion. Sorry, don't remember that measurement.

 

All the pictures I have seen taken from inside the car agree with what you say about the height of the tranny in relation to the tunnel.

I am kind of puzzled why I have never read of anybody having issues with the power steering pulley touching the horn where the lower control arm mounts when the transmission is raised to achieve the correct angle to the pinion shaft. Anyway I went out and modified the control arm mounting horn to provide clearance for the pulley if I need it. I think I will just leave the transmission mounting bracket unattached to the crossmember until after I get the body back on.

When I started this project I had not thought of converting from 4 to 5 speed until after I had the body off and the engine/tranny removed, so I did not bother to take note of heights/angles and the like.

The only measurement that could help me at this point is the distance from the transmission to the crossmember, since my body is not installed. I think the most important consideration is the relation of the angles between the tranny and the rear end.

I appreciate the input, thanks.

 

is there any way you can inbox me or email a picture of this mount? The picture was taken down it seams. Thanks!

 

post number 12 has a pic of a modified mount.