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Yeah, I just took my rear end apart. The seal requires removing the yoke...a two or three jaw puller may work, then the old seal can be pried out and a new one installed. HOWEVER, installing the yoke is a problem since the yoke includes an internal race for the internal bearing and it needs to be pressed on to properly load the bearing. I tried using a hammer, and found it difficult to properly load the bearing because the pinion needs to be braced on the opposite side along with a second bearing with a pressed on external race.
My recommendation is to remove the differential and take it to a rear end, or transmission shop who will have the proper hydrolic press to put safely replace the seal.
I know the diff is slightly different from your 75 to my 81 but I've had mine replaced while on the car, didn't take very long to do either but the shop specialized in Corvettes. It can be done with the right tools. It's held up for over a year so far.
What C3 Shark Tank said. It can be done in the car with the right tools and knowledge.
The main seal in my rear diff leaked after it was rebuilt and the gear ratio changed. The shop who did it stood behind their work and they changed the seal without removing the differential.
Thanks guys. Considering the amount of money I've recently dumped into this car the less expensive the fix the better. Looks like I'll be searching for a good differential shop around here.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Re: Rear end trouble. LEAK! (Cookwithvette)
You can get it done on the car, just like the tailshaft bushing and seal I had replaced. Got a couple of quotes from the usual suspects ( Mr. Transmission etc. ) and it was nealy 1000 bucks because they said it coulld't be done on the car.
Found a mechanic that knew what he was doin and did it with the tranny in the car and replaced front u-joint on driveshaft for $200 :D
It can be done on the car. When you take the yoke off, remember to mark the shaft and nut so that on re install you get the torque correct on the crush sleeve as there is no easy way to measure torque when it is still all installed on the car. Also be aware that you will have to be using a long bar to tighten the nut so it is good to have the car as high as you can. There is a few comments in this thread that sure do have me confused.
bob