Diagnose u-joints/trailing arm
This is my first Vette and it's a little different than other older cars.
I had the back end off the ground today and was checking things out. All the universals seemed OK. I had it in park and turned the rear wheel front and back and looked for any play. I also went under and tried turning the shafts as well as front to back and side to side. Everything seemed OK.
Then I went for a case of beer and when I pulled up and was moving slow I heard (and slightly felt - I think) the clink, clink, clink that a universal would make. Hmmm.
I went to a large parking lot and it did it some more. It didn't seem to do it in neutral or reverse, just in drive. That part could have been coincidence because it didn't do it in drive all the time.
Anything else to check for? I try to do things myself, but a shop isn't out of the question.
Oh, and I said about the trailing arms, I just wondered how you can tell what needs replaced there. I couldn't really see in to where the bushing is - maybe I should have got the flashlight out.
Thanks for any help.
This is my first Vette and it's a little different than other older cars.
I had the back end off the ground today and was checking things out. All the universals seemed OK. I had it in park and turned the rear wheel front and back and looked for any play. I also went under and tried turning the shafts as well as front to back and side to side. Everything seemed OK.
Then I went for a case of beer and when I pulled up and was moving slow I heard (and slightly felt - I think) the clink, clink, clink that a universal would make. Hmmm.
I went to a large parking lot and it did it some more. It didn't seem to do it in neutral or reverse, just in drive. That part could have been coincidence because it didn't do it in drive all the time.
Anything else to check for? I try to do things myself, but a shop isn't out of the question.
Oh, and I said about the trailing arms, I just wondered how you can tell what needs replaced there. I couldn't really see in to where the bushing is - maybe I should have got the flashlight out.
Thanks for any help.
1. with the rear of the car lifter use light pressure at 12 / 6 oclock on the tire so you can feel wheel bearing play. You should feel similar at 9 / 3 clock.
2. next push full pressure at 12 /6 oclock and see how much play you now have. If its tight then the 3 main problem area's are good.
a. trailing arm bushings
b. stub axles
c. posi clutch plates.
if you have play then the next step is to remove the half shafts, and test each area.
with little effort check the play in the stub axles, again at 12 / 6 oclock push up to test the play in the TA bushings.
The rear clutch plates require more effort on the stub axles to test., but most older 1978's with no rear work usually need both TA bushings and stub axles to be replaced.
My 1978 after 25 years needed all 3.
Last edited by cagotzmann; Jul 13, 2013 at 11:41 PM.
I know there was no wiggle with slight pressure (bearing) but there was some up movement when more force was applied (TA bushings)
I'll have to investigate farther.
Thanks again.












