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I'm trying to replace the rubber bushing at the front of the differential with a poly bushing. I have gotten the bolt out, but the bushing is firmly trapped. How do I spread the parts to remove the old bushing?
I used a socket with a breaker bar from the front to hold the bolt head. Worked great. The bolt will not come out though without disconnecting the rear u-joint on the driveshaft. Sure wish I had ask about that before going to all the trouble to hold the bolt without diconnecting the u-joint.
Hate to tell you, but you do need to disconnect the u-joint in order to lift the differential high enough. I just did mine about two months ago and had a shop do it. I was told, incorrectly, that this was one of the easiest jobs I could do, which was so wrong, the person saying that was being sinister or had never done the change. Anyway, back on topic, the shop had to disconnect the u-joint. Said there was no way without doing that. Instructions are sorely lacking by not mentioning that. And, the shop is quite competent so they know what they say.
The u-joint is now disconnected. I had to do that to remove the bolt. My problem is the rear carrier does not drop down like I expected it to so I can change the bushing. How the heck can I get the nose of the carrier to drop down a 1/4 inch or so?
I don't know how to get just the nose to drop down, but to get the whole diff. down a little, you could loosen the bolts from the frame on your cross-member that the diff. mounts to. You might not get much of a drop with shafts, spring, strut-rod, etc. still attached though.
When I did this on my '80, I had to get the weight of the car on the back wheels so the half shaft were parallel to the ground and the front of the rear diff wanted to point toward the ground (this takes the pressure off the front of the differential). You can use car ramps or wood under the rear wheels. I removed the snubber bolt, jacked up each side of the car and put the rear wheels on the ramps. I then could pull the rear diff down from the frame and make enough space to remove the cushions.
I guess you could also use two jacks under each trailing arm and jack each one up to get the pressure of the rear diff.
I wonder if the 79-style diffs are mounted differently than the 80+ style?
I hope it is as easy as that.
Norris
The 80 is different than the 79. The 80 differential was a one piece aluminum unit. The 80 has no lower mount bracket that is bolted on. Also, the upper mounts are different.
Steve
Would unbolting that bottom mounting bracket from the diff to that front bushing point help?
Norris
I looked at that, but the replacement bushing is as big or bigger than the old one. The bracket would never go back in to place so I could reinstall the cross bolts. Not to mention the fear that the nose of the differntial would go up more!
Wellll...Putting the weight on the wheels didn't work. Next step will be to remove the 2 bolts that hold the aft mounts to the frame. They look like they haven't moved since 1979. I may wait until I get a care package from VB&P. As long as the bolts are coming out I may as well put in the big aluminum washers that they sell to stabilize the differential.
I have had more fun with my Corvette!
I can see you are getting in a pickle. Do you have then tire carrier dropped? I just did one a month ago and was able to drop the rear uniiversal joint and then pry the nose of the differential enought to get the poly donut in. If you have the tire carrier out you could hook a come along up to the frame at the back and around the spring beside the diff. Tighten it a little ( we are only talking moving the nose of the diff down (1\2-3\4 ) I have used this also. A big pry bar can do wonders.
bob
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