1980 corvette performance


Scott
That said, they are good reliable engines and will get you back on the road fast, and with a warranty. You can make significantly more power for the same price but will have to deal with your engine builder's warranty and likely put some sweat equity into it.


Here's mine:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CYwmaT9-5So

Scott
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Starting with an OD tranny would eliminate the problem of the shifter and make moving to the dual exhaust easier. Do you take long trips or cruise highway speed a lot? If not, there is nothing wrong with the 4 speed. Time to make a plan
A couple years back i wipped a lobe on a cam and decided to rebuild the motor. I stroked the 350 and man that made all of the difference. You could just start there. Stroke the motor. Have it done by a good shop in your area and then stuff it back in the car with a good set of summett headders and dual exhaust. You will love it and it will not be hard to drive. Dont go crazy with the cam selection. Talk to the builder a lot and tell him what you want to do. You race or dont race. I dont race i like to ride and from time to time light up the tires.... just the 15 year old in me! You can do all of this for 3 grand and still have money for beer for the guys that help you. By the way... have the 4 speed rebuilt when you have the motor out. You will be glad you did. It is fine on trips..
A couple years back i wipped a lobe on a cam and decided to rebuild the motor. I stroked the 350 and man that made all of the difference. You could just start there. Stroke the motor. Have it done by a good shop in your area and then stuff it back in the car with a good set of summett headders and dual exhaust. You will love it and it will not be hard to drive. Dont go crazy with the cam selection. Talk to the builder a lot and tell him what you want to do. You race or dont race. I dont race i like to ride and from time to time light up the tires.... just the 15 year old in me! You can do all of this for 3 grand and still have money for beer for the guys that help you. By the way... have the 4 speed rebuilt when you have the motor out. You will be glad you did. It is fine on trips..
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...o-hang-it.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...cs-please.html
Type this "81 dual exhaust cross member" into your google IMAGES search and you will see dozens of them.
I've done the searches. I called G-Force and their crossmember is for automatics or after-market manual transmissions. The original GM 4 speed shifter mounts to the crossmember.
As Gale Banks 80' said, "maybe we are learning something new here". I am hoping the OP posts a pic and it turns up a solution than is easier/better than cutting up the original crossmember.
I've done the searches. I called G-Force and their crossmember is for automatics or after-market manual transmissions. The original GM 4 speed shifter mounts to the crossmember.
As Gale Banks 80' said, "maybe we are learning something new here". I am hoping the OP posts a pic and it turns up a solution than is easier/better than cutting up the original crossmember.

They bolt up as opposed to being welded. For the manual there is a bolt on bracket that holds the shifter. The automatic equipped cars have the holes and bolts already in them if you want to convert to manual. Piece of cake.
If I understand the original post, it states that for some reason his crossmember supports dual exhaust. This is probably correct as someone in the distant past might have converted it.
All the later C3 cars with cats have the X pipe and not true duals. It is my understanding that the earlier true dual cars have welded in cross members. The ones with the holes in them for the pipes to pass through.
I suppose you could get an earlier welded in cross member and modify it to fit your application and weld it in.
The crossmember in my 81 fits both the auto and Super T 10 I replaced it with perfectly.
I don't believe the factory ever intended the 80-82 cars to ever have true duals and thus didn't create a stock crossmember to do that.
Have Lars rebuild/recurve your OEM HEI for performance. Same for the carburetor; set it up to compliment the recurve. This will give you a BIG seat-of-pants performance increase. stock advance and carb are for fuel efficiency. You may need an adjustable vacuum advance with the distributor rebuild as I recall mine was not adjustable (I had a tuner recurve my aftermarket Accel distributor that came with adjustable advance can).
Headers, true duals and turbo mufflers (I have Dynomax Super Turbos).
K&N filter in your stock dual snorkel air cleaner. With the stock ducting in good workng order, it will be fine. I disconnected and 'fixed' the intake doors on the air cleaner to keep them open at all times. I also removed all thermal switches from intake and rerouted the vacuum lines to compensate. I also connected distributor advance vacuum line to the correct carb port (per Lars' instructions).
You probably have the OEM aluminum intake manifold. No need to replace it. Edelbrock performer (2101 or 3701) are practically same as the OEM aluminum intake.
If you aren't happy with the improvement, For about $350-500 in parts, you can add a nice cam/lifters combo. If you have L82, the cam I would recommend doesn't have much more lift but you get it faster with shorter duration and tighter lobe separation Crane Energizer 272 H10 grind woke my L48 up. I found it a perfect compliment to the recurve/carb rebuild.
If still not enough, cylinder head swap for about $1,500
If you are really set on spending $4,000, then the next step would be to add gears. replace the rear 3.07 gears with either 3.31's or 3.54's. I also stepped up to a 700R4 conversion but after the gears, you will need to add to your budget if you want a 700R4.
You could probably add gears and NOS to the recurve/carb, headers/duals, cam/lifters and cylinder head swap and be at $4,000. And, in process, you will have a blast.



















