Cleaning solution for rusted parts
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 140
From: Kanuckistan
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
A mix and lye and soap does wonder on removing grease and gunk.
Then evaporust and/or electrolysis to remove the rust without eating the good metal.
Evaporust is just molasse on steroid, let is dry and you'll see get sugary sticky paste.
Evaporust is kinda expensive (at least he in Canada), so I wire brush the obvious and then let it finish the work as it can only absord a certain amount of rust.
Then, phosphoric acid will neutralize whatever remains.
Before painting I heat the part with a propane torch, as metal dilate and closes its pores you can see humidity oozing out of the part.
Then evaporust and/or electrolysis to remove the rust without eating the good metal.
Evaporust is just molasse on steroid, let is dry and you'll see get sugary sticky paste.
Evaporust is kinda expensive (at least he in Canada), so I wire brush the obvious and then let it finish the work as it can only absord a certain amount of rust.
Then, phosphoric acid will neutralize whatever remains.
Before painting I heat the part with a propane torch, as metal dilate and closes its pores you can see humidity oozing out of the part.
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis Indiana
I was about to start sandblasting my TAs. Should I go with electrolysis first? It sounds like I think have to clean off "black crud". Am I better off just sandblasting? Opinions? Anyone done both that could compare the two?
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 115
Likes: 1
From: Victor Harbor SA
1 part molasses and 2 parts water.
Let the parts soak for a week in a plastic drum.
Like new.
Super cheap and amazing if you have never seen it before.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
A mix and lye and soap does wonder on removing grease and gunk.
Then evaporust and/or electrolysis to remove the rust without eating the good metal.
Evaporust is just molasse on steroid, let is dry and you'll see get sugary sticky paste.
Evaporust is kinda expensive (at least he in Canada), so I wire brush the obvious and then let it finish the work as it can only absord a certain amount of rust.
Then, phosphoric acid will neutralize whatever remains.
Before painting I heat the part with a propane torch, as metal dilate and closes its pores you can see humidity oozing out of the part.
Then evaporust and/or electrolysis to remove the rust without eating the good metal.
Evaporust is just molasse on steroid, let is dry and you'll see get sugary sticky paste.
Evaporust is kinda expensive (at least he in Canada), so I wire brush the obvious and then let it finish the work as it can only absord a certain amount of rust.
Then, phosphoric acid will neutralize whatever remains.
Before painting I heat the part with a propane torch, as metal dilate and closes its pores you can see humidity oozing out of the part.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 140
From: Kanuckistan
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
...Let me just point something out though with no offense intended, just pointing out a common misconception. When you heat your metal parts with a torch that moisture is not coming out of the metal, and metal doesn't have pores. What's happening is water vapor, a combustion process byproduct, is condensing on the metal. Once the metal reaches the ambient dew point, the condensing stops, and the metal no longer sweats. You are actually depositing the water onto the part with the torch. I know it's off topic, it's just a pet peeve I have.
.I Did so more search and found your point confirmed.
Got to learn new stuff everyday.
Thanks for the tip.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Lucas TX
Mike,
I have tried both. The electrolysis black crud brushes off very easily with no sand mess. I just use a wire brush. For bigger pieces, I put a brush on my electric drill to save some elbow grease. Sometimes it will even wipe off with a rag. You are not removing rust - it is gone. When I tried sand blasting on rusted material, I thought it was much more tedious.
Even though I have a 55 gallon electrolysis vat, thanks to this thread, I just got some evaporust to use on small parts (nuts and bolts). Electrolysis will work, but it would be easier not to wire up each part. However for big parts, you can't beat the price of 55 gallons of electrolysis "juice" - about $10. If you purchased that much evaporust using the quart price, it would be almost $2,000. Also, the $10 solution never wears out.
I have tried both. The electrolysis black crud brushes off very easily with no sand mess. I just use a wire brush. For bigger pieces, I put a brush on my electric drill to save some elbow grease. Sometimes it will even wipe off with a rag. You are not removing rust - it is gone. When I tried sand blasting on rusted material, I thought it was much more tedious.
Even though I have a 55 gallon electrolysis vat, thanks to this thread, I just got some evaporust to use on small parts (nuts and bolts). Electrolysis will work, but it would be easier not to wire up each part. However for big parts, you can't beat the price of 55 gallons of electrolysis "juice" - about $10. If you purchased that much evaporust using the quart price, it would be almost $2,000. Also, the $10 solution never wears out.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
Now, with all these products being being acidic, would CLR work as well? I don't know the pH, but it is Marketed for Rust, etc, and has Lactic acid and another acid as well.
Not sure where to buy raw chemicals like phosphoric acid and such in Ontario, and neither Home Depot nor Lowes have Etch & Prep up here, or anything marketted for that purpose it seems.
PS: I am looking to clean up some of my pitted floor of my 1980 before I glass over it and put the new carpet in
Not sure where to buy raw chemicals like phosphoric acid and such in Ontario, and neither Home Depot nor Lowes have Etch & Prep up here, or anything marketted for that purpose it seems.
PS: I am looking to clean up some of my pitted floor of my 1980 before I glass over it and put the new carpet in
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Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
prep.
Learned this in the late 60s, automated production paint lines ran parts thru a phosphoric acid bath, then rinsed and baked it, then spray painted parts and baked again.
Now, with all these products being being acidic, would CLR work as well? I don't know the pH, but it is Marketed for Rust, etc, and has Lactic acid and another acid as well.
Not sure where to buy raw chemicals like phosphoric acid and such in Ontario, and neither Home Depot nor Lowes have Etch & Prep up here, or anything marketted for that purpose it seems.
PS: I am looking to clean up some of my pitted floor of my 1980 before I glass over it and put the new carpet in
Not sure where to buy raw chemicals like phosphoric acid and such in Ontario, and neither Home Depot nor Lowes have Etch & Prep up here, or anything marketted for that purpose it seems.
PS: I am looking to clean up some of my pitted floor of my 1980 before I glass over it and put the new carpet in
Professionally you can buy OSPHO at a auto paint wholesaler, but more expensive.
If you're in dairy country, you may be able to get this or similar wherever farmers shop and it's pretty cheap and phosphoric.
Monarch CIP Acid or
Dairyland Milkstone Remover & Acid Rinse
(even at Truevalue Hardware)
If you need very little, then Limeaway is a weaker solution.
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
CLR worked for the surface rust and cleaned up nice when used with a wire cup, but didn't eat into the pits in the time I had. I got some Acid Urinal Cleaner containing Hydrochloric Acid HCL and coated the floor with that and used shop towels to keep it moist, and it definately started to eat into the pits, some are even clean now! I was afraid to leave it on overnight as it would be 18+ hours before I could do anything with it, but HCL works for rust. I pulled it off cleaned it up and neutralized it with water and baking soda and it didn't seem to flash rust, but of course now I have baking soda in every damn crevice and still have more rust pits to clean out and a week to get the interior back in. FML
HCL works just be prepared for flash rust. Perhaps a liquid neutralizer and a phosphoric cleaner to seal it up after would be effective and timely
HCL works just be prepared for flash rust. Perhaps a liquid neutralizer and a phosphoric cleaner to seal it up after would be effective and timely
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 14,112
Likes: 28
From: Florida
You can use phosphoric in two ways.
Wash it off while still wet and the metal will be absolutely clean as new, but will flash rust if not neutralized while wet.
Or
Leave it on and let it dry. It turns leaves a blackish coating which will not rust for approx a year here.
Marketed as a rust converter and paint prep.
I've often done both with the last application left to dry. Here is a pic as a rust converter. Frame sprayed with a weed sprayer.
Wash it off while still wet and the metal will be absolutely clean as new, but will flash rust if not neutralized while wet.
Or
Leave it on and let it dry. It turns leaves a blackish coating which will not rust for approx a year here.
Marketed as a rust converter and paint prep.
I've often done both with the last application left to dry. Here is a pic as a rust converter. Frame sprayed with a weed sprayer.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 86
Likes: 2
From: Lucas TX
Lots of good discussion on how to get rid of rust. Paint on the big parts will keep the rust from coming back. What do you use on hardware after it has been cleaned to keep from doing all this again in a couple of years?
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
The HCL worked, but everything I have read says do not use it! Something about Chlorine ions being left behind causing rust again.
I managed to find one of the rust products at Canadian Tire, cleaned up and cupped brushed the floors with CLR then rinsed and used the retail stuff to soak over night to get out the last of the deep pits. I cannot believe that the floor actually came clean! Even after running the grinder and heavy wire wheel over it it was still heavily pitted, even rusted through on one spot on each side.
I'd still like to find some phosphoric acid for next time though, sounds like it is the only good option.
The hardest part is cleaning things you cannot dunk and soak. I used heavy shop paper towels and laid them out perfectly flat and soaked them with the stuff, making sure to work out any air bubbles. I cannot think of any way to work with it on anything other than a fairly level surface though. Maybe a gel of some kind?
I managed to find one of the rust products at Canadian Tire, cleaned up and cupped brushed the floors with CLR then rinsed and used the retail stuff to soak over night to get out the last of the deep pits. I cannot believe that the floor actually came clean! Even after running the grinder and heavy wire wheel over it it was still heavily pitted, even rusted through on one spot on each side.
I'd still like to find some phosphoric acid for next time though, sounds like it is the only good option.
The hardest part is cleaning things you cannot dunk and soak. I used heavy shop paper towels and laid them out perfectly flat and soaked them with the stuff, making sure to work out any air bubbles. I cannot think of any way to work with it on anything other than a fairly level surface though. Maybe a gel of some kind?
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 140
From: Kanuckistan
2022 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: Toronto Ontario
The Evaporust I bought works slowly but I think the pitting will be clear this morning. All the bare metal around the edges that I let the stuff dry on still flash rusted, so I must have done something wrong. Still not an ideal product.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,152
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
brainsoft - in Canada you can find "Bowl Bright" toilet bowl cleaner and it will clean off rust. Probably any toilet bowl cleaner that claims to remove rust stains would work. Use it outside though, the fumes will rust other stuff in your garage otherwise. Lots of water and washing to get it off and neutralized will be needed too.
Overall, I find electrolysis about the easiest way to clean off rust on anything you can hang into a pail. Hang it in the pail, hook the charger up and come back tomorrow to change to the next part.
Overall, I find electrolysis about the easiest way to clean off rust on anything you can hang into a pail. Hang it in the pail, hook the charger up and come back tomorrow to change to the next part.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,098
Likes: 378
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Vinegar full strength for 48 hours. Works great on small parts but haven't tried on any large parts other than a pair of corvette magnesium vlv cover that it destroyed - not for magnesium or aluminum. 48 hrs and rinse off with water - u will want to coat with something before surface rust starts again. Costco seems to have the best deal on vinegar but u get funny looks and questions when u buy cases of vinegar.
cardo0
cardo0
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,989
Likes: 198
From: Meriden CT
Had the Evaporust on there overnight with the paper towel soaked and wrapped in plastic cleaned & wire brushed beforehand, still wet this morning, and.......... nothing. Nada, zip 
. As if I just wet it. I'm trying the full immersion now....
. As if I just wet it. I'm trying the full immersion now....
Instructor
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
From: ROSEBRUGH ALBERTA
I hate using Phosphoric Acid based rust removers because the fumes are so carcinogenic and cause brain damage.
I use apple cider vinegar full strength to remove rust from light to heavy. I put 3 gallons in a plastic pale and drop in the goods as needed. Heavy rust takes a week or 2 and will clean out rust like it's been sand blasted. It leaves a black film that need to be scrubbed off.
It's safe and easily disposed.
I use apple cider vinegar full strength to remove rust from light to heavy. I put 3 gallons in a plastic pale and drop in the goods as needed. Heavy rust takes a week or 2 and will clean out rust like it's been sand blasted. It leaves a black film that need to be scrubbed off.
It's safe and easily disposed.