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dry sump on a C3

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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #21  
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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Cold pressures aside, if you've significantly more than 10 PSI / 1000 RPM at redline (or any other RPM), I'd seriously consider adjusting your relief spring to bring hot pressures back down to the 10/1000, to reduce sump evacuation at high revs.

Filter wise for such an application, I highly suggest you stick with Canton, Moroso or other reputable manufacturer's racing filters with higher flow and burst ratings than their street counterparts. Biggest plume of flames I've ever seen out of my rear view mirror were due to a non-bypassed filter that failed.
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 05:50 AM
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From: Beringen
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
Cold pressures aside, if you've significantly more than 10 PSI / 1000 RPM at redline (or any other RPM), I'd seriously consider adjusting your relief spring to bring hot pressures back down to the 10/1000, to reduce sump evacuation at high revs.

Filter wise for such an application, I highly suggest you stick with Canton, Moroso or other reputable manufacturer's racing filters with higher flow and burst ratings than their street counterparts. Biggest plume of flames I've ever seen out of my rear view mirror were due to a non-bypassed filter that failed.
I do not reach the 10psi/1000 since it seems to hit a wall at 65 psi around 5500 and the engine can rev to 7500 no prob.

Filter has a relief valve and is functioning correct. It has a burst pressure of 200 psi which far removed from the bypass setting of 75 psi.
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 03:39 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by TheSkunkWorks
Refresh my memory. In addition to the accumulator do you already have a baffled/gated RR pan (including rear main baffle), a decent windage tray and crank scaper, is your valley deberred and sealed (Glyptal), and how are you on pickup to sump clearances and oil pressures (10/1000)?

Myself, having long fought with this issue, I'm leaving no stone unturned this time around in hopes I can ultimately avoid the trouble and expense of a dry sump system before giving up. In addition to everything mentioned above, I've also got a bottom-feed, submerged pump setup which virtually eliminates any requirement to lift oil up to the spur gears (in addition to height, pickup tube design and length can also come into play with lateral G's). And, I'll most likely mount a low-pressure warning light under the cowl (L88) out in front of the windshield, and have been considering a no-pressure cut-off. My $.02, FWIW.
Any more info on your submerged pump setup? I still see oil pressure fluctuate on hard corners and braking especially at lower engine RPMs. I just have the canton RR sbc pan right now, no Accusump.

Ive also got a low pressure (20 psi) warning light in place of my headlight open warning lamp (under the door ajar light). I just sprayed a yellow tint over a piece of lexan cut out to fit the stock hole.
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 08:30 PM
  #24  
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From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
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Originally Posted by vette427-sbc
Any more info on your submerged pump setup? I still see oil pressure fluctuate on hard corners and braking especially at lower engine RPMs. I just have the canton RR sbc pan right now, no Accusump...
The submerged setup I've got for BBC's consists of a standard architecture pump with a precision spacer and bottom-feed cover which replaces the original. Unfortunately, Moroso discontinued these kits some time ago in favor of their billet line of submerged pumps. However, IIRC there are still a couple of resources for the SBC version of what I have (I'd post a link if I could find one). One advantage I see over the billet ones is that I can pretty much just surface the cover and pop the bits on a new pump when the time comes.


.

Last edited by TheSkunkWorks; Aug 9, 2013 at 10:58 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 10:04 PM
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Oh....dry SUMP on a C3.....musta misread that title, glad I didn't post a pic

I have to say the V 12 is a really cool project, looks like the dry sump was one of the easier things to get worked out on that build. Very nice
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 12:50 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette
what tank is that ? From a C6 LS3 ?
Yes, the whole set up is a 2010 Grand Sport LS3 Dry Sump. We had to extend the accessories 7/8 to account for the extended crank. Oil pan fit perfectly. 2002 Accessories from a Camaro to clear the lower control arm. Water pump modified. etc. etc. Getting very close to starting. Check some codes and trouble shooting my spark issue, but should be very soon.

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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 05:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DEEPSEA70
Yes, the whole set up is a 2010 Grand Sport LS3 Dry Sump. We had to extend the accessories 7/8 to account for the extended crank. Oil pan fit perfectly. 2002 Accessories from a Camaro to clear the lower control arm. Water pump modified. etc. etc. Getting very close to starting. Check some codes and trouble shooting my spark issue, but should be very soon.

How are you going to prevent the tank from flooding the engine when not in use ?
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 02:37 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette
How are you going to prevent the tank from flooding the engine when not in use ?
I've never heard of that. How does the C6 do it. The whole system is transplanted for a running C6.
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 12:19 PM
  #29  
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From: Beringen
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Originally Posted by DEEPSEA70
I've never heard of that. How does the C6 do it. The whole system is transplanted for a running C6.
OK then I think you're ok. I was talking to a guy at Peterson's and I asked all sorts of questions on this phenomena and it is a problem on a dry sump. Apparently the LS engine with dry sump it was solved with something sucking the oil out immediatly before startup and putting it in the tank.
Also the amount of oil in the tank and the size of the pan is the determining factor.

Race engines with dry sump usually need priming which is prohibitive for an engine that sees the street.

I see some aftermarket tanks holding up to 2-3 gallons of oil and due to the fact that the tank has to be higher to gravity feed the pump, it will drain all of the oil to the engine. You can guess the results with a shallow pan.
The rep at Peterson's also advised strongly against a valve (electric or not) in the line.
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette
.

I see some aftermarket tanks holding up to 2-3 gallons of oil and due to the fact that the tank has to be higher to gravity feed the pump, it will drain all of the oil to the engine. You can guess the results with a shallow pan.
.


did you just make that up?
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
did you just make that up?
No that was pointed out to me by Kevin at Peterson.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by redvetracr
did you just make that up?
I have expereinced that condition on a ARE dry sumped C5. Was doing a clutch change, took out a flywheel bolt and out poured the oil. Seems (at least on the ARE setup) oil drains past the seal for the fitting that goes into the oil pump inlet. I don't think the OEM C6 does that.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 10:03 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by whitehause
Oh....dry SUMP on a C3.....musta misread that title, glad I didn't post a pic

I have to say the V 12 is a really cool project, looks like the dry sump was one of the easier things to get worked out on that build. Very nice
THANKS!!!

What kind of filter are you looking at using. It's mounted between the output of the pump and engine. My stock BMW external oil filter canister has a drain back valve - and you can find these cheap at the junkyard- I simply welded on an AN fitting to the stock tube...OR you could mount your filter higher up to eliminate the tank draining...
Richard

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