What's the best oil(name/weight) to run in my 1970 454 bored 30 over with 1000 miles on rebuild?

 

I see you are new here. Do a search and you will find more information than you ever wanted. This question is like bringing up religion or politics.

Ralph

 

Older engines like conventional oils and back in the day for high compression engines they used 10w40 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter. I used to run 20w50 in my 350 engines back in the 1980s for the viscosity and protection. Personally I like high quality oils and use Valvoline oils and lubricants. I do not use store name brands and go for this brand whenever I can. It is just personal preference. There are more expensive brands like Redline and Royal Purple these two oil brands are the best the market has to offer with Valvoline and Mobil 1 as the next best.

I used Mobile 1 Full Syn LS in my limited Slip Diff with an LS additive when I replaced my Diff Oil. Would have used Valvoline but Mobile 1 was on the shelf.

Early on 10W50 was used for high compression engines for the viscosity levels and protection then 10w40 oils in the winter but with todays oils you can use 10w40 in the summer and 10w30 in the winter have be the best.

If you choose to use Synthetic Oils once the engine is broken in then 10w30 all year round. I would suggest fully breaking the engine with a 10w40 Dino oil till the 3rd oil change before converting to synthetic oil. Once you start using synthetic oil you should stick with it as I have read in many places.

My 1977 has about 44,000 miles on the engine I converted after I bought the car and will stick with it for the life of the engine. Syn Lubs are much better then convetional oils and will help to make the engine last longer then if using a Dino Oil. They hold up to the tempatures better and instead of 3000 mile oil changes you can perform 5000 mile oil changes. They do not have the same problems dino oil does when sitting for long periods of time. So you do not always need an oil change when parking the car for the winter if you only drove it 2000 miles that summer. Change it the next time is sits.

I have also started to use Full Syn Brake fluids in all my cars because it does not turn black from the brake heat and stays cleaner longer.

Few thoughts.

 

Shell Fire + Ice

 

Yeah no shitttttt. Look at the sticky at the top of the page. This is not the can of worms you wait to open.

 

MakoJoe
CF Senior Member

"There are more expensive brands like Redline and Royal Purple these two oil brands are the best the market has to offer with Valvoline and Mobil 1 as the next best."

Any technical proof concerning the above statement? Especially "Redline and Royal Purple these two oil brands are the best the market has to offer..."

 

No, and 'no' to 99% of his other statements too.

 

Shell Rotella 15W 40 available at Walmart. I've run it for many years in both my big block and small block Vettes. Most old Corvette guys in my area are running the same with no issues.

 

You are being generous....

 

I am currently running Joe Gibbs HR2 oil and will probably switch to the HR4 synthetic once I have changed the oil 3 or 4 times. Both are 10W30.

Another option I am thinking about is the Brad Penn - Penn Grade 1 oil in the 10W30 weight.

I have heard good things about both oils and they were specifically recommended by my engine builder. Redline was also a recommendation.

The oils as noted are more expensive but I am looking at only doing one oil change a year based on the amount the car will be driven so I figured the recommended synthetic oil is worth the extra dollars.

 

Valvolinve VR1 10w30. 4.99 per quart from amazon and free shipping

 

This ^ Same price at NAPA cash n carry!

 

Here's the link to a thread that has more info than you'll ever need.
Not my thread, so take it for what it's worth.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php...tor_oil_basics

 

 

It is scientifically proven that full synthetic oils are better than conventional motor oils. They have a higher flash point and are proven to reduce wear in the engines. Early on when Full synthetic oils were first introduced into the market they did have leaking problems but these have been solved with better formulas.

I forgot to mention AMSOIL also as top of the line Synthetic oil.

Always love these Yes I do my reading and research than form an opinion

As I said above my personal preference is Full Synthetic Valvoline Oils and Lubricants. Mainly because I do not want or need to spend over $6.00 bucks for a qaurt of oil.

I change my oil about every 5000 miles using Full Syn in all my cars even though I could probably go 7500 miles. It is the old school in my that does it. I also bleed out my brake systems before the brakes go bad. Keeps the calipers and master cylinders lasting longer.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...oducts/4213451

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ventional_oil/

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-...tic-motor-oil/

http://wpc.1c96.edgecastcdn.net/001C...ent/index.html

http://www.redlineoil.com/content/fi...PDS%205-13.pdf

http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/produ...!hps-motor-oil

 

Does anyone use any additives since zinc was taken out of motor oil?

 

http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/racing-oil/

Did I mention I like Valvoline oils

What are the benefits to using a racing oil versus a regular "street legal" oil?

The Valvoline VR1 Racing & "Not Street Legal" racing oils contain additional additives for increased horsepower and reduced friction on metal parts, provide extra wear protection for high compression/higher horsepower engines, and include fewer detergents than regular conventional motor oils.

2.
What is motor oil with zinc?

The anti-wear additive simply referred to as zinc by most car enthusiasts is actually short for Zinc DialkylDithiophosphates or ZDDP. Its primary role is to prevent metal-to-metal contact between engine parts by forming a protective film. Despite being referred to as zinc, this additive actually contains zinc and phosphorus, with phosphorus performing the anti-wear function in the motor oil with zinc.

3.
Why is it important to have the zinc/phosphorus levels in motor oil changed?

With ever increasing limits on emissions, automobile manufacturers have tightened emission control systems on newer vehicles. This is one of several factors considered when the American Petroleum Institute (API) sets standards for motor oil with zinc. The current API standard is SM which replaced the previous SL classification. Because phosphorus can poison a vehicle's emission system, the level of zinc is lower for current motor oil.

4.
What is the controversy surrounding the amount of zinc in motor oil?

Many hands-on car enthusiasts and engine experts believe the lower levels of zinc in SM motor oil is causing excessive wear in older style push-rod and flat-tappet engines. This is despite the fact that all new motor oil classifications are intended to be backward compatible. This has resulted in the widely accepted belief that modern motor oil is not adequate to protect older engines.

You old guys kill me on this question because todays motor oils are better blended and do not cause slug build up and closed oil systems are much cleaner since about 1971 when they had to recirculate the oil emission into the engine agian. Less maintance and cleaner emission control systems.

5.
What solutions does Valvoline offer to the zinc issue?

Valvoline offers two solutions to the zinc issue:
1.Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil: Contains 75% higher zinc than SM motor oil with a balanced additive package designed to work in both racing and street-legal applications. This product will protect older style push-rod and flat tappet engines. Valvoline provides this product in both multi and mono viscosity grades: 20w50, straight 50, 10w30, straight 30, straight 40, and straight 60.
2.Longer-Lasting Zinc/Phosphorus: Valvoline uses an advanced zinc/phosphorus additive that keeps higher levels of phosphorus in the motor oil where it protects the engine instead of poisoning the catalytic converter. Valvoline is the only brand offering this unique additive across its entire line of passenger car motor oils including SynPower -- the only synthetic oil that offers this additive.


6.
Which oil has more zinc/ZDDP: VR1 or "Not Street Legal" racing oil?

Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil contains .13 percent of zinc and .12 percent of phosphorus compared to the Valvoline "Not Street Legal" Racing Oil which contains .14 percent of zinc and .13 percent of phosphorus.

7.
Will an additive boost the zinc level?

You can use an additive to increase the zinc level. However, check with your motor oil manufacturer to ensure the additive is compatible with your racing oil.

8.
Is VR1 a conventional oil, a synthetic or a blend?

Valvoline VR1 racing oil is a conventional, non-synthetic racing oil.

 

Oh No.

 

LOL my point exactly we can beat it death

SO back to the original question on this dudes rebuilt engine most engine manufacturers of rebuilt older engines suggest breaking in the engine for about 3 oil changes on conventional oil before moving to full synthetic oils. Why because in a rebuilt engine you want to change the oil after the first 1000 miles, change it again after 3000 miles and then go into a routine oil change. After the 4th or 5th oil change you can with old school wisdom switch over to full syn oils. Full syn oils with old school wisdom suggest that the parts may not seat together and you need the initial friction to get the engine parts to seat properly.

After 3 or 4 oil changes on an old engine with a rebuild the parts are seated and than switch to full syn motor.

I have said enough about beating it death. Old school I am but like the new tech

 

I had Carolina Machines Engines rebuild my 1970 454. It was bored .30 over and they replaced of the internal engines parts. I retained the stock intact manifold and they re-worked the heads. The new set up dynoed at 425 HP. I have a 5-year warranty that they will only honor if I use Classic Car Motor Oil. You can go to their site www.Classiccarmotoroil.com