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dISCONNECT THE bATTERY!! That 10 ga wire that hooks to the back of the alternator will act just like a mini arc welder- right up to the point the fusible links melt.
I used to wear a watch- until I got the metal band between the alternator output stud and a ground, I still carry that scar- and the engine was NOT running.
62 amp alternator is really plenty for stock setup? .. I had a 2,400 watt rms stereo system in my jeep and the stock 75 amp alternator did fine with a optima yellow top battery....
If you have electric fans they usually draw like 40-50 amps Max for dual fans....
The bigger the alternator the more HP draw when there is a heavy load...
My last car had a 20 amp generator that I upgraded to a 35 amp for the stereo amp...
Last edited by augiedoggy; Aug 7, 2013 at 07:47 AM.
62 amp alternator is really plenty for stock setup? .. I had a 2,400 watt rms stereo system in my jeep and the stock 75 amp alternator did fine with a optima yellow top battery....
If you have electric fans they usually draw like 40-50 amps Max for dual fans....
The bigger the alternator the more HP draw when there is a heavy load...
My last car had a 20 amp generator that I upgraded to a 35 amp for the stereo amp...
With access on, radio going, and idling at traffic light and low rpms, voltage drops below the straight up mark. Can't remember what voltage that is. If have turn signal on, needle will bounce lower.
With access on, radio going, and idling at traffic light and low rpms, voltage drops below the straight up mark. Can't remember what voltage that is. If have turn signal on, needle will bounce lower.
With access on, radio going, and idling at traffic light and low rpms, voltage drops below the straight up mark. Can't remember what voltage that is. If have turn signal on, needle will bounce lower.
Your 61 amp alternator is probably fine when it is actually putting out 61 amps but that is its maximum output and occurs at higher rpms. The key factor is the output at idle. Your existing alternator isn't putting out enough at idle and so your battery is picking up the slack.
Most higher output alternators also have much better output at idle. Hopefully this is the case with your new 105 amp model.
Your 61 amp alternator is probably fine when it is actually putting out 61 amps but that is its maximum output and occurs at higher rpms. The key factor is the output at idle. Your existing alternator isn't putting out enough at idle and so your battery is picking up the slack.
Most higher output alternators also have much better output at idle. Hopefully this is the case with your new 105 amp model.
DC
And that is why I went with the 105 and why I won't need an 8 gauge battery wire. Won't ever get that high. I just need more than 61 amps. Driving home today, 100*, ac, radio, barely over 13 amps. Under when stopped in traffic or at a light.
And that is why I went with the 105 and why I won't need an 8 gauge battery wire. Won't ever get that high. I just need more than 61 amps. Driving home today, 100*, ac, radio, barely over 13 amps. Under when stopped in traffic or at a light.
I had a 140 on my 82 without running a heavy gauge wire. No problems at all and I run electric fans!
I'm pretty sure the stock 82 alternator is 80amps and under full load at idle it would drop down to 12 volts when the hazard lights blinked. Mr. Amp I think will be my next alternator but he's expensive!
I also thought about using my lathe to make a smaller diameter pulley. I think that's what Mr. Amp is doing or retrofitting the newer Delco alt. but for now it works!
My replacement aternator from a year ago is a 61 amp - stamped on body. It replaced a NAPA (do not buy) that was maybe a 65 amp that was OK but died after several years. Itself was a replacement for a NAPA alternator that died after only a few years. I will stay away from NAPA. I think stock is 65? I just want the extra capacity IF needed, which I doubt I will need. For <$70, why not.
Your 61 amp alternator is probably fine when it is actually putting out 61 amps but that is its maximum output and occurs at higher rpms. The key factor is the output at idle. Your existing alternator isn't putting out enough at idle and so your battery is picking up the slack.
Most higher output alternators also have much better output at idle. Hopefully this is the case with your new 105 amp model.
DC
They also have a very short life when the older stock style housing is used because of the additional heat and poor case ventilation..... plus don't forgett the larger loss of HP when the load is higher..... battery is supposed to be a buffer here...
There are a few dozen sellers with the chrome 100 amp models for between 55-$100 on eBay with shipping.... I saw that other thread and the price really is average but the pic was of a high quality non chrome unit... there are a lot of cheap poor performing china alternator's out there. Some are falsely rated higher than they are as well. Had a stock one in my 84 vette (75-85amps I think) it was more than enough for the thirteen years I owned it with dual factory read fans and an Orion hcca amp drawing 800watts for the subs and a 400watt alpine amp and digital dash .... I had to have it replaced once and I went to a shop that specialized in rebuilding them.... never had any issues with the rebuilt one...
Last edited by augiedoggy; Aug 8, 2013 at 09:53 PM.