Reduce the plug gap to .045 or .035.

 

Ok, I will give it a try. Just out of curiosity though, what will this accomplish? Stronger spark?

Bryan

 

You know it's getting fuel but you don't know the quality of the fuel (it's been sitting for a while) or how much. Empty the bowl or wait for it evaporate, and fill it with known good fuel. Then try to start it. If it runs good on that bowl of fuel you found the problem. Hook up a hose to the disconnected fuel line to the carb and let it pump into a gas can while you do this. Watch out for the headers contacting your hose.
If that doesn't work and you're sure all plugs and dizzy locate is good then check float function and level, also check the condition of the filter while you're there.

 

Stock ignition has a tough time firing a .60" gap and instead will sometimes jump through the wires to ground. Might be why your own wires were toast.

There's no performance advantage to big gaps.

 

The fuel should be good. I put 10 gallons of new gas in an empty tank when I started the whole process with the torque converter. Gas is no more than 2 months old. I'll look at this nonetheless.

 

I guess this could explain why only the 3,5 and 2,4 wires were toast. They are run together to the head. I have to wonder though, if the .60 gap is difficult for the stock system, why is that listed as the appropriate gap? Regardless, I will make the change and see if it makes any difference.

Thanks,
Bryan

 

GM revised the figure to .045" in later manuals.

 

Ok, quadruple checked that I have the plugs wired correctly. Check. Re-gapped the spark plugs. Check. Pulled fuel filter. Looks good, check. Tried some fresh gas that I brought home the other day. Check.

The results? No difference. Car starts but just seems, unbalanced. Best way I can describe it. It just seems to be running out of sync. No power. Will only stay running when throttle is wide open, and then at low rpms. Oh, one thing also is that I am getting some backfiring through the carb. Got a little flame shoot up through there as it died on me.

So, any other thoughts? I'm starting to think that this car is cursed.

Thanks,
Bryan

 

is your harmonic balancer old and could have slipped giving you wrong timing readings? In the engine's current condition are you still getting a 14 degree initial reading? Are you using a combination of an MSD box and a dial back light to check the timing?

 

Nope. The whole thing is new. New harmonic balancer, cam, heads, fuel pump, water pump, etc etc etc.

 

Pull your distributor cap and check the rotor and all of the other components too. Sounds like something's out of time, it if it's not ignition related it is pointing more towards a valve timing issue with the backfiring thru the carb.
(I really doubt it could be a stuck valve or lifter with what you have)
I had this happen many years ago ( backfiring after fresh work done ), but mine fired thru the exhaust and blew-up one muffler. It was a loose upper timing gear.

Rule out what you've worked on first and go from there.

You have a really good setup that will be running great soon I'm sure !

I hate to see this for anybody - GOOD LUCK

 

OK, but what about the timing are you still getting the 14 degrees and are you using an MSD box and dial back light to set the timing?

 

I am using the stock HEI distributor. I have a standard timing light but my harmonic balancer has marks from 0 to 60 degrees. As far as current timing, I couldn't tell you. I can't keep it running long enough right now to get a light on it. However, it was running at 14* before it took a sh*T.

 

I agree that it seems timing related but I have checked the dizzy install and it is, appears, correct. I need to pull it and set it from scratch. I have had this nagging feeling that maybe it looks correct but I'm off one or two teeth and maybe the timing is retarded. I'll check it out and get back to you.

Bryan

 

Can you mark the distributor base and intake with a marker, get an assistant to hold the throttle open while you turn the distributor to see if you can get it to keep running.

 

With the back firing when it dies and no rpm regardless of throttle opening It sure sounds like a timing issue.
With the work you did it introduced several more variables and potential for another problem to be introduced to the original problem.
I'm going to guess your original problem at this point was the burned through plug caps and that they were shorting out. Given that enough of the plugs were shorted you didn't have enough cylinders firing for it to start. If I use that as the start of the problem then you have fixed that, and now some other problem has been introduced.
My guess at this point is that the distributor is 180* out of sync.
I didn't know an engine would even start this way, but maybe a V8 will. Not sure, I've never tried. But it will make chuffing noises and backfire through the carb if attempted.
Take the cap off and mark the relative position of the front of the rotor with a sharpie or something. It doesn't need to be on #1 or any specific position.
Next take the distributor out of the hole just enough to clear the drive gear on the cam. Rotate the rotor 180*. Put it back into the block. If you did it right it will mesh with the oil pump drive just fine with it 180* different than when you pulled it out.
Now the tail of the rotor should be aligned with the mark you made on the distributor with your sharpie.
Give that a shot. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

It's impossible to be 'one or two teeth off' if the timing mark is at the intended spot.

 

When I originally removed the distributor I marked the base at the #1 position with a sharpie. When I re installed the distributor, I did so with the vac advance on the passenger side and the sharpie mark pointing toward cylinder 1 with the rotor pointing at that mark with cylinder 1 on the compression stroke, verified with my finger on the plug hole while bumping the engine over with a remote starter. Given that, I don't see how I could be 180 off. Just thinking out loud, not arguing. I went out a few minutes ago to try to get a light on it. Got it started and kept it going just long enough to check timing. My harmonic balancer has marks for Vertical TDC and then 0-60. I had to look quickly because it was trying to die, but it looked like timing was at the Vertical TDC mark. What that means, I don't know and if I'm off base on the 180 out thing, please correct me.

Thanks,
Bryan

 

So I think I figured the problem out. Based upon the idea of timing being the problem, I decided to check the rotor again in relation to post 1 with cylinder 1 at TDC. Pulled the plug for #1, removed the distributor cap and once I advanced the engine around to #1 compression stroke, I saw it. WAY to much advance. With #1 at TDC, the rotor was a good 2 inches from the #1 post. I looked at the harmonic balancer but didn't recall how many degrees it was advanced. Gave the distributor a counterclockwise turn to move the rotor closer to the #1 post, cap back on, replaced wires, fired right up.

I guess this is why you always go back and double and triple check things you think you have checked. Now I can get the timing dialed in for good.
Thanks again for all of the help. Don't know what I would do without this forum.


Bryan

 

Sort of ironic how a post you started long ago about timing ended up not being timing and now revisited it was timing. Glad you got it figured out in any case.