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I'm getting some weirdness when I'm on the highway. When taking it out to check the carburetor adjustment, I find that when I jamb the pedal down the car wants to dart left and when I let off the pedal quickly it wants to dart right. I drive mostly 35-40mph on the way to work so I don't hit the highway that often. I've had the car aligned and a strut rod bushing replaced. Where else should I be looking? The car feels generally 'squirrelly' on the highway. My last car needed the steering box rebuilt, but this doesn't feel like that. Steering seems responsive. Any help would be appreciated.
is the rear end aligned correctly , or have you had it to an alignment shop.? in the past two years or ever ? Good tires and shocks.
car should brake in a straight line, accelerate straight or coast out of gear straight /brake out of gear straight...if it don't something ain't right. .
Be absolutely. 100 percent sure the tire pressure is correct at ALL four corners .....use a known good air source , not a guesstimate
My guess is you still have issues in rear suspension or diff/unit wear issues.
Last edited by LS4 PILOT; Aug 19, 2013 at 02:19 PM.
I checked tire pressure as I suspected the same. The car was aligned by a pro shop that does vettes and came recommended for my car. He checked the steering valve for center. The tires have less that 5k on them I believe, but are the Futura Pep Boys tires which I'm told are Coopers.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Could be anything from idler are to ball joints to rear trailing arms, Jack up each corner and get a BMF Crowbar and start prying things to find any movement. Some parts will actually get tighter when jacked up so be aware of that. Could be a bad tire too.
wonder, if the brakes are all working at four corners as they should, sticking or something, maybe lines are rusted closed, or getting that way, or master cylinder is not operating correctly and the brake pressure is not consistent at all four corners.
Look for signs of leaking fluids from the calipers or on to the calipers from another source . My power steering was throwing fluid everywhere and I had all that rebuilt , hoses et.
wonder, if the brakes are all working at four corners as they should, sticking or something, maybe lines are rusted closed, or getting that way, or master cylinder is not operating correctly and the brake pressure is not consistent at all four corners.
Look for signs of leaking fluids from the calipers or on to the calipers from another source . My power steering was throwing fluid everywhere and I had all that rebuilt , hoses et.
let us know what ya figure out.
I'll check, but they should be ok. All new calipers all around.
Sounds to me like a sloppy trailing arm forward bushing. Get the frame up on jackstands, and then get a jack and a wood block under the outboard spring bolt and take the tension off one side at a time. See if the front of the trailing arm moves about with the load off.
Yes, "control arm/trailing arm bushings are problem. Afew of us went thru this recently.
I also agree that it is most likely the trailing arm bushings. From what I understand is that if the T/A bushings are bad when you accelerate and let of the slop in the bushings cause the toe setting to change therefor steering the car from the rear.
If you replace the T/A bushings I would make sure that you get the ones that have to be staked in on both sides. There are a few companies that sell them that just slide in on both sides advertising that you do not have to remove the arm, but in my experience this caused the same problem that you are experiencing. Good Luck and let us know what the out come is.
Yep. Trailing arm bushings. Rebuilt arms going in on both sides right now to fix that (and other) issues. Not fun, but necessary.
Just curious (for the OP's sake and mine, possibly): how hard of a job is this? Say, related to manually changing ball joints, with the "pickle fork," etc....
Are there any special tools required? Any special skills? Super-human strength?
In other words, how would it compare, difficulty-wise, to doing a complete brake job?
I would not tackle the actual bearings and bushings replacement myself (special tools, skills, and more patience than I have are a necessity), but the trailing arms themselves can be swapped with a good selection of mechanic's tools and a desire to do it. It is not easy but very do-able. Search the forum as there are several good threads on how to do it and the foibles involved. It seems that someone is trying to swap them out regularly and the topic surfaces frequently. I am doing it now and do not hesitate to reach out to the forum members for guidance (and sympathy).
Also, it is one of those "while I'm at it" jobs that usually leads to other things, such as rebuilding the parking brakes, fresh parking brake cables, new u-joints, spring and sway bar bushings, shocks, and more. All that has to be disconnected or removed, so why not?
To answer your question, a brake job is a walk in the park compared to swapping out trailing arms. But if you can do one you can probably do the other.
Last edited by CaseyJones; Aug 20, 2013 at 08:33 AM.
This is from the C-5 tech forum, but essentially exhibits what could be going on, even in a C-3. Give this video a look, especially the second half of it....
This is from the C-5 tech forum, but essentially exhibits what could be going on, even in a C-3. Give this video a look, especially the second half of it....