I've read the archives the Tech Tips and I'm just wondering if someone can break this down for me to make sure I've got it. I replaced the return line to the power steering because of a leak, the other line will be replaced today when it comes in. After attempting to bleed the system (which involves turning the wheel back and forth about four times, or four sets, right?) the steering wheel shot completely back to center, taking several wild turns to do so. Are there some adjustments or things I need to check before assuming this valve I'm reading about is shot? Thanks in advance. I guess I can share some helpful information after all....when playing with the power steering, never, ever stick your arm though the wheel to turn the key when you're standing outside the car. :eek:

 

In the Aug 2002 issues of Corvette Fever magazine, on page 57 is a do it yourself on bleeding a power steering set/up., the article is on converting to p/s & has good info........... :seeya


[Modified by StrayDog, 9:28 AM 7/1/2002]

 

You need to adjust the control valve. The service manual tells you how to do this, or you can search through archived threads. I had to adjust mine, and have seen this on past threads.

 

No joke there, that wheel can take your arm off!

What you have to do to correct the problem is pry the dust cap off of your control valve and adjust the nut- check the book to see which way you have to turn it.

Jerry

 

Thanks everyone, hopefully it will get sorted out tonight. This appears to be the final :lol: thing standing in the way of it being roadworthy. Unless the transmission problem I'm having turns out to be serious. Off to research that one as well. :boxing

 

Are you sure you have the lines on the power steering slave cylinder and the proportioning valve in the right order. I know it seems simple. However, the first time I replaced my cylinder, I inadvertantly crossed the lines. When I started the car to bleed the lines, I touched the steering wheel and it went violently back and forth. (It about took my arm off because I wasn't expecting it.) After about 2 days of thinking what went wrong, I looked under my buddies car and saw realized that the lines were crossed. I swapped the lines and it worked perfect. Good Luck.

 

I'm not completely sure...will check one of the other cars to see if they're the same. Thanks, it would be nice if it was something simple. :) Unlikely given my luck so far, but I can hope anyway.

 

What's up with your transmission?

Jerry

 

For some reason it doesn't want to shift into second easily, even after trying to shift it manually. Similar problem into third, fine once it gets up to speed and hits final running gear. I was kind of wondering if we had all the lines hooked up...kickdown line? or something from the carb? I'm not familiar with transmissions at all, so I'm mostly trying to troubleshoot and tell my Dad so he can check it out. We had several different carbs on it, getting things tuned and finding the one that worked best with my intake, so I was thinking maybe we missed hooking something up properly. This and electrical are completely foreign to me right now. :confused: I hate not knowing these things, but I guess it won't come overnight.

 

Yeah you're right, it doesn't come overnight. But I have learned that after a year a lot of it does start to come. Before my Vette the only car work I had done was oil, brakes, and stuff like that; but in these past few months I've learned a TON about Vettes and about cars in general, and so far I've done all the work myself.

How many miles on the transmission? If you can't find any problems hooking it up, maybe it's due for a rebuild. I don't know much about transmissions yet either- but I was planning on rebuilding my TH350. After talking to some people about it I've decided that it is not something I want to get into just yet, because of a lack of time and garage space. :rolleyes:

Good luck, I hope you figure it out!

Jerry

 

Check for a vacume leak first. I just had this problem the otherday. I just got back from Afghany and had not driven the car in a while, It seemed to take too long to shift to second and third, I checked under the hood and there it was. The vacum line was still on but right at the very end of the tube. I changed the hose btween the intake and the steel line and that fixed it. Don't have a clue on the steering problem. When I have my first one I am going to put on the Steeroids R&P system.
Good luck
Bob

 

I understand now how easy it is to throw new parts at a situation in hopes of finding a solution, or fixing one thing only to cause or discover another problem. Replaced both hoses to the power steering pump, got it working somewhat, and then discovered the pump itself was leaking. The pulley shaft (not sure of terminology) was loose and leaking fluid when it wobbled. Guess now I get a new pump and see if that fixes it. By the time I'm finished replacing all this stuff I should have a mostly new car. :lol: At least the steering wheel was only trying to mildly recenter itself instead of spinning wildly....I'm calling it progress before I get discouraged.

The transmission is the original and has about 43,000 miles on it, though I suspect they were pretty hard miles.


[Modified by StingRayPonyGirl, 2:10 AM 7/5/2002]

 

If the pump driveshaft is wobbling, the pump will have to be replaced. The shaft rotates on a very precision bushing in the pump housing. It cannot be serviced. I am not sure what year Vette you have but the things you have to watch for when replacing your pump are: 1). 1968 to 1974, you have a nut to hold the pulley on the driveshaft; 2). 1975 to 1979 interference fit pulley attachment; 3). 1980 to 1982 (same pulley as #2) plus there are metric fasteners and a metric o-ring fitting for the pressure hose.

I retired from Delphi Saginaw Steering Systems (formerly Saginaw Steering Gear Division, GMC) a year ago. I worked in steering systems engineering most of my 39 year career. Since retirement, I have a worked up a whole set of instructions on the C3 Corvette steering system. They can be found at http://www.corvettefaq.com in the Steering section. These instructions along with a good Chevrolet Service Manual and a Chevrolet Overhaul Manual can be a big, big, help in working on your Vette.

You may find the instructions a bit wordy, but they do lay a good basis as to how and why the steering system works.

Have you adjusted your control valve? I know that you mentioned that the steering wheel "took-off" when you first started your car. I suspect that large quantities of air in the steering system can also cause the steering wheel to rotate in the manner that you described. So I guess my question to you is; has the steering improved by itself, or have you adjusted the valve?

Some of the papers that are posted at corvettefaq.com that could be of help:
Control Valve Replace and Balance Instructions
Hose Connections - Flare versus O-ring
P-Pump Leak Points Pic
P-Pump Parts Repair and Replace
Pump Pulley Attachments
Steering Hose Routings (all engines)
Steering Hose Routing (pic) pump to valve
Steering Hose Routing (pic) valve to cylinder

 

Thanks Jim, your papers are what got us this far. I haven't adjusted the valve yet, the leak was discovered before I got the chance, but the steering seemed to correct itself somewhat after replacing both hoses and bleeding it.

 

I just balanced my rebuilt cotrol valve/cylinder yesterday. It's easy...
Disconect the pwr cylinder from the frame. (I blocked mine up with wood to keep it from hanging). Start the car, and observe the cylinder. If it retracts, SLOWLY turn the adjusting nut (under the dust cap on the valve) clockwise untill the rod starts to move out from the cylinder. If the rod shoots out, adjust the nut counter-clockwise till it starts to move in. Now adjust the nut to the half way point between in/out movement. The cylinder rod should be free to move in and out by hand once this is done. Be patient, cause the cylinder rod will not react immediatly after turning the nut. Again... turn that nut slowly, and observe the amount you turn it, between in and out movement of the rod. I was a little nervous doing this (first time) but I took my time, and it turned out perfect.
Hope I've helped...Good Luck
Eddie :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

 

Thanks Eddie, it did help. We adjusted it tonight after replacing the power steering pump but are still having the same problem. I guess the next step is to see if the valve assembly needs to be rebuilt. :( This time the wheel didn't just turn one way, it's now wildly spinning both directions. It feels like this car will never get out of the shop...it's been living on jack stands since it got painted almost two weeks ago.

 

When you say that you replaced "both hoses" I take it to mean the pressure hose from the pump discharge fitting to the control valve and the low pressure return line hose from the valve to the pump reservoir. Or did you replace the two hoses from the control valve to the assist cylinder (aka ram).

You really can't screw up assembling the pressure and return line hose. (They can be routed incorrectly so they are rubbing against things, or routed so that when you make full lock turns they are hitting and rubbing things.) But you can't interchange them, one for the other.

However, you can interchange the two hoses going from the valve to the assist cylinder. They should criss-cross coming out of the control valve. Please refer to Steering Hose Routing Pic Steering Hose Valve to Cylinder at the corvettefaq websight if there is any doubt as to the connections.