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setting hydraulic lifters on BB

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Old Jul 1, 2002 | 05:59 PM
  #1  
Turbo-Jet's Avatar
Turbo-Jet
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Default setting hydraulic lifters on BB

I hate this job, because doing the twirl method is very awkward. The intake pushrods are so close to the top and runners that I can't get my fingers in there, making for inconsistencies and no confidence that I found zero-lash.

As for the hot method, aside from the hot oil and smoke show, I find it hard to distinguish from the no-clatter sound versus the normal ticking sound that can be heard, especially with all the other engine noise.

Are there any other methods? What about this:

The thread pitch of the studs is 20/inch. Therefore 1/2 turn equals .025" of displacement, always. What if I go to TDC, and slowly tighten nut until a .025 feeler gauge just slides between the valve tip and rocker arm. Then I tighten 1 full turn (giving 1/2 turn of preload). Comments?

[Modified by Turbo-Jet, 2:02 PM 7/1/2002]


[Modified by Turbo-Jet, 2:03 PM 7/1/2002]
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Old Jul 1, 2002 | 06:20 PM
  #2  
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bence13_33
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From: Clymer PA
Default Re: setting hydraulic lifters on BB (Turbo-Jet)

To be honest, the correct way is to adjust the valves with the engine running. The "smokey show" can be somewhat prevented by using the rocker arm squirter guards. They are just little pieces of metal that slide over the rocker arm squirter and prevent oil from being sloshed around then engine compartment.

I always adjusted my valves with the engine off and using the pushrod twisty method. However, this is not the correct method to properly find 0 valve lash....but it worked for me.

Man am I glad I have a solid lifter cam :D
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Old Jul 1, 2002 | 07:53 PM
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Default Re: setting hydraulic lifters on BB (Turbo-Jet)

Dear Turb Jet,

Your maths regarding the thread pitch is incorrect. That is because as you tighten the nut, the tip of the rocker travels further than the nut since the other end of the rocker cannot move and acts as a fulcrum. So you will need to consider the rocker ratio as well.

I try to set the valve lash on mine with the intake manifold off when I can, it makes it easy to twirl the rods, or I just set them up cold by feel or with a very thin feeler gauge (0.002? I think) then one full. I don't believe that these settings are critical for street use, and you'll see many posts that recommend different settings.

Good luck,
Joe

'69 427L36 M21 3.08 White Coupe


Assuming you've got the cam in the right position to adjust the valves
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Old Jul 2, 2002 | 11:27 AM
  #4  
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norvalwilhelm
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Default Re: setting hydraulic lifters on BB (Turbo-Jet)

You can't get zero lash correctly with the twist method. The push rod should be moved up and down. Rotating doesn't have enough feel. With the engine off and cold I loosen off the rocker and then slowly tighten while moving the push rod up and down not twist until i feel no movement then give it and extra 3/4 turn.
There is a table which I don't have with me where you set the #1 piston on TDC then adjust the following valves, then move to BDC or 180 degrees and adjust the following valves. After 2 complete turns all valves are adjusted. This method works.
I could post the chart tomorrow if you want or someone else would have it to post.
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Old Jul 3, 2002 | 02:53 PM
  #5  
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no_radio
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Default Speaking of normal engine ticking noises....

I have a 454 in my '76 Suburban, replaced cam and lifters in January, and have an intermittent ticking noise, mostly at idle or low load conditions. I've used a stethoscope on the valve cover over each rocker, and can't hear much noticable sound difference.
How much lifter noise can be considered normal? I have a Comp XE256 with their lifters. First lashed them cold with the manual twisting method, then rechecked them hot with the twist method.
Thanks,
Jeff
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