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I've just have a couple more holes to drill in the frame and then I'm ready for POR15. I've power washed the whole frame with a high pressure power washer, then wire wheeled, then did whatever welding needed. The photo below is just after I used engine degreaser then the pressure washer again.
Question: once dry, is the process as follows.
Spray on Metal Ready let sit for 10 minutes then wipe off.
Apply POR15 with a small roller or brush inside and out.
Apply a second coat of POR15 within 1/2 hour.
Spray a black Rustoleum paint overtop the POR15 to prevent UV damage to the POR15.
Any comments would be appreciated as I wasn't sure if I needed to scuff up the frame after the wire wheel process to help the POR15 adhere better.
Sounds about right
Make sure you tarp everything and wear gloves up to your armpits, that stuff is hard to get off.
It doesn't stick to well to smooth surfaces (actually hardly sticks at all) so let the prep do its work and don't wipe it off too much (if that makes sense)
It dries fairly quick and doesn't edge well so it's better to work all around the frame and then move along rather than trying to do the top and then the bottom.
Pour only what you can spread in about 15min
Wear a proper mask, this stuff is moisture cure, don't need it in your lungs
If you're going to spray the insides, do it first. The Eastwood frame black spray with the long tube works pretty good, I was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked actually.
If you go too thin it won't flow out and will leave marks, too thick and it will sag, much after it's "dry"
Not a whole lot of UV exposure on a frame I wouldn't think.
Thanks for the reply SIXFOOTER;
This is what I've read when doing a search which is why I posted it.
Originally Posted by Mooser
It doesn't stick to well to smooth surfaces (actually hardly sticks at all) so let the prep do its work and don't wipe it off too much.
Thanks for the reply Mooser;
So it sounds as though I don't need to lightly sand down the frame.........sounds good to me.
Originally Posted by Mooser
It dries fairly quick and doesn't edge well so it's better to work all around the frame and then move along rather than trying to do the top and then the bottom.
Pour only what you can spread in about 15min
I was actually going to try to do the top, then bottom, but it sounds as though I should go around the perimeter first then to the inside?QUOTE=Mooser;1584881302]If you're going to spray the insides, do it first. The Eastwood frame black spray with the long tube works pretty good, I was pleasantly surprised at how well it worked actually.[/QUOTE]I wish I had something to spray the inside but I haven't figured that part out yet. QUOTE=Mooser;1584881302]Frame looks great by the way
M[/QUOTE]Well thank you Mooser.
.... I was actually going to try to do the top, then bottom, but it sounds as though I should go around the perimeter first then to the inside?...
I wish I had something to spray the inside but I haven't figured that part out yet.
I guess what I was trying to say is if yoy stop somewhere and try to come back later and blend to that edge it doesn't work well, you'll always see the end/start, even if you go over it on the second coat.
If you do top and then bottom, end each at the frame joint/weld instead of at a corner.
If you do coat the inside of the frame later, it will leak out in so many places you'll never keep on top of it and it will end up messing up the nice work your about to do. It's amazing how many holes are in those frame joints
Also, if you let it dry too long before top coating, etching primer from c-tire is as-good if not better than the POR-15 brand. I tried both.
M
f you stop somewhere and try to come back later and blend to that edge it doesn't work well, you'll always see the end/start, even if you go over it on the second coat.
If you do top and then bottom, end each at the frame joint/weld instead of at a corner.
Thanks for the reply Mooser, I get it now as I missundertood before.
Originally Posted by Mooser
If you do coat the inside of the frame later, it will leak out in so many places you'll never keep on top of it and it will end up messing up the nice work your about to do. It's amazing how many holes are in those frame joints
Originally I thought about taping all the holes and then pouring it in at one end and letting gravity take over but that seems like too much effort.
Originally Posted by Mooser
Also, if you let it dry too long before top coating, etching primer from c-tire is as-good if not better than the POR-15 brand. I tried both.
M
I've never heard of "etching primer, at which stage do you apply this process, or does it replace a process? I'n not quite understanding how or what stage it gets applied.
.... I've never heard of "etching primer, at which stage do you apply this process, or does it replace a process? I'n not quite understanding how or what stage it gets applied.
Thanks for the info.
It's only if you miss the top coat window on the POR15
There's a sweet spot when you can apply top coat to POR15 before it's fully cured, if you miss that you need to scuff and use their TIE-COAT primer or you can use this self-etching primer.
Check their web site for some info on top coating and primers
I've tried their etching and the regular stuff from c-tire, both worked well, the c-tire stuff stuck better to the POR15 than their stuff did though.
I'm glad I posted this thread as I've learned several things today.
I think it doesn't hurt to use it either way. I went to Canadian Tires web site and typed "self etch primer" in the search and came up with nothing. Maybe I'll drop by the store tomorrow and ask a sales associate. I think I'm going to use it.
I'm glad I posted this thread as I've learned several things today.
I think it doesn't hurt to use it either way. I went to Canadian Tires web site and typed "self etch primer" in the search and came up with nothing. Maybe I'll drop by the store tomorrow and ask a sales associate. I think I'm going to use it.
Pretty sure its SEM brand, greyish can with a grey lid, it'll be in the auto paint section. HH, will also carry it (depending on the store) napa etc
M
Getting the inside the frame can be difficult. Many locations that won't spray. Feed some 550 or other strong string through the frame parts you are working on. tie a good sponge in the line and soak it with por 15. Pull it from one end to the other and reapply the por at each end. do two coats.
Por 15 has a chassis black with uv protection for the final coat.
Pretty sure its SEM brand, greyish can with a grey lid, it'll be in the auto paint section. HH, will also carry it (depending on the store) napa etc
M[/IMG]
Will check a few more stores today, being in Canada we don't have the selection or neighours to the south have.
Originally Posted by Indiancreek
Getting the inside the frame can be difficult. Many locations that won't spray. Feed some 550 or other strong string through the frame parts you are working on. tie a good sponge in the line and soak it with por 15. Pull it from one end to the other and reapply the por at each end. do two coats.
Por 15 has a chassis black with uv protection for the final coat.
Thanks for the info, although that does seem like a lot of work. I guess as they say, "no pain, no gain".
1. POR15 Marine Clean. Removes oil and grease from frame. Apply, scrub then power wash. Let dry.
2. Metal Ready. Apply, let sit, power wash. Let dry.
3. Apply POR15. Two coats. Brush or roller.
4. Topcoat within the time period listed on can. If you miss this window you will need to scuff frame and apply POR self etching primer than topcoat. Don't miss this top coating window.
Buy a cheap 1 gallon sprayer at Home Depot to apply Marine Clean and Metal Ready. Wear mask and gloves on this project.
Inside of frame use Ziebart if located in your area. Excellent rust protection for the interior of frame. They have all the fittings and attachments to get the entire interior of frame. I have used them and was very happy with the results.
first i will say i am a fan of por-15. have you considered powder coating? if you sand blast inside the frame as best you can the powdercoater can throw a good bit of powder inside too, thats what id do.
What I ended up doing after I finished wire wheeling the frame is:
-applied engine degreaser over entire frame inside and out, let sit for 20 minutes, than high pressure power wash and dry.
-Spray the entire inside of frame with rust proofing.
-Spray Metal Ready, let dry, but didn't power wash again.
-Once Metal Ready was dry I applied the first coat of POR15 right over the dried Metal Ready.
-Applied a light second coat of POR15 when the first coat was still slightly sticky and not completely dry which was about 1/2 hr. after the first coat was complete.
-After about 1/2 hr. and the second coat was still not dry I sprayed one coat of self-etch primer.
-Once the primer was dry I sprayed one coat of Rustoleum paint as a top coat.
I tried a whole bunch of ways of getting por15 inside the frame. Everything I tired was a big mess and didn't work.
Finally I used a 3M wand, something like a underbody rust sprayer, but the 3M has 3 nozzles, 2 on each side and one in the front.
I diluted the POR15 about 1:1 with acetone. This got the entire inside of the frame done. I checked with a snake camera to make sure everything was covered. I repeated this about 3 times. Air Pressure turned way up to get the POR to flow.
I did the inside first because all the seams leak making a big mess on the outside of the frame not to mention the floor.
Outside of frame done with PPG 90. I heard that POR can chip. But I don't know this for sure so I didn't want to risk it.
Steve L
73 coupe since new
Last edited by stevelischynsky; Sep 15, 2013 at 07:02 PM.
I used RustBullet on a couple of frames with excellent results. I know that POR has a much better marketing campaign but RB is so much easier to use and provides equal or better protection.
I didn't use the metal prep that por15 told me to use and my 67 Chevy truck frame rusted into dust within a year!!! It bubbled up under the paint and it was worse than if I used nothing at all
I stopped down in their office here in jersey and he said I cleaned the frame to bare metal and that I should of let it flash rust before applying or use their metal prep.
Its good stuff on rust but be careful on clean metal!!! Lesson learned, follow directions.....mom always said I had to learn the hard way