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C3 rear camber adjustment?

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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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Default C3 rear camber adjustment?

Long time ago when I bought my 82 I noticed that the rear tires sat at a slight angle in at the top. I believe that is the camber, anyway I did not like the look and adjusted the camber bolts underneath until I had a almost perfect perpindicular (spelling?) tire to pavement contact. Well I just noticed the other day that they were leaning inward at the top again. I had the bolts nice and tight but they should not do that right??
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by alconk
Long time ago when I bought my 82 I noticed that the rear tires sat at a slight angle in at the top. I believe that is the camber, anyway I did not like the look and adjusted the camber bolts underneath until I had a almost perfect perpindicular (spelling?) tire to pavement contact. Well I just noticed the other day that they were leaning inward at the top again. I had the bolts nice and tight but they should not do that right??
If the cam bolts did not move you probably have worn TA Bushings. Lift the back wheels and see how much play you have moving the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock position. If it moves a lot it be worn stub axels and / or worn TA bushings. It may also be worn camber strut bushings.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 07:34 PM
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Oooh that don't sound good. Whats the life expenctancy of those items (miles)? Is that like checking for a wheel bearing on the front?
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 08:29 PM
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Rear tires should have slight negative camber, that is, tipped in towards the center of the car.
Very roughly, on a dead level garage floor, each rear wheel should tip in 1/8" from vertical, measured at the wheel rim. That will be about 1/2 degree negative.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by alconk
Oooh that don't sound good. Whats the life expenctancy of those items (miles)? Is that like checking for a wheel bearing on the front?
It's hard to say. First find out if there is any play and where. You cannot set a constant camber if everything keeps moving.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by alconk
Oooh that don't sound good. Whats the life expenctancy of those items (miles)? Is that like checking for a wheel bearing on the front?
Trailing arm bushings have no effect on camber. Look elsewhere.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 10:00 PM
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Will check this weekend, thanks!
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Trailing arm bushings have no effect on camber. Look elsewhere.
You would think not, but the pivot point with no backing causes the arm to twist when normally it would move up and down with very little twisting. The most likely bushings would be the strut arms, but usually when the rear starts to fail , TA bushings , strut bushing, axles stubs its usually not one that is worn, its usually all that are worn. Try setting the camber with worn TA bushing, drive around the block and measure again. You will not get the same measurement twice.
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Old Sep 12, 2013 | 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by cagotzmann
You would think not, but the pivot point with no backing causes the arm to twist when normally it would move up and down with very little twisting.
The stock bushing design permits twisting from camber change not only from strut rod adjustment but from normal suspension movement. That's one of the main reasons rubber is far superior to poly in this instance.
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
The stock bushing design permits twisting from camber change not only from strut rod adjustment but from normal suspension movement. That's one of the main reasons rubber is far superior to poly in this instance.
And if the bushing is bad / torn etc it then would no longer provide proper support and allow more twisting and therefor the camber under load will always move to the lowest point. This would be seen a negative camber at rest. Adjusting to a more up right position would then again set more stress at the bushings and further tear at the bushing both the TA and struts. If the strut bushing are also worn it would never rest at the same point twice. But I think based on the original question the fact that the camber has changed and if the strut bolt / eccentric cam position did not change there is movement somewhere else and I would bet that all 3 area's stub axles, strut bushings / TA bushing are all worn. The only other thought would be the strut rod is bent ?
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by alconk
Will check this weekend, thanks!
Also when you moved the wheel position did you mark the cam bolt position so it would be easy to see if it slipped ? Did you do both sides or just one side ?
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by cagotzmann
And if the bushing is bad / torn etc it then would no longer provide proper support and allow more twisting and therefor the camber under load will always move to the lowest point.
Have you ever worked on one of these cars?

1) install a trailing arm and shim it.

2) install a wheel.

Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and see how much resistance there is in the bushing to typical camber changes (very little). Just like GM designed it.

Why do you think the all out road race guys put heim joints? According to your theory, their camber would be all over the place.
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 02:20 PM
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Camber is controlled by the half shaft and the lower control arm ( the one from the spindle to the rear end). If the bushings on the lower control arm are bad the camber will change and the rear end will get squirrely.
If the half shafts have bad or loose u-joints the same thing will happen.
If the stub shaft going into the diff is worn..again..same effect.

you have to tighten those cam bolts really tight or they do slip.

the trailing arm bushing does not affect camber as looseness there causes the trailing arm to pivot around the half shaft / lower control arm axis.

changing camber WILL affect toe
Changing toe has zero to no effect on camber.

rear camber should be very slightly negative, from 0 to -.5 degrees, depending on how you want the car to feel.

Toe should be slightly in Less toe, more oversteer.
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by alconk
...I noticed that the rear tires sat at a slight angle in at the top...I did not like the look and adjusted the camber bolts underneath until I had a almost perfect perpindicular...
Take the car to a shop and have a four wheel alignment done. You may not have done yourself any favors when you did your own alignment.

If I recall, didn't you also replace the stock spring?

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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Have you ever worked on one of these cars?

1) install a trailing arm and shim it.

2) install a wheel.

Grab the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock and see how much resistance there is in the bushing to typical camber changes (very little). Just like GM designed it.

Why do you think the all out road race guys put heim joints? According to your theory, their camber would be all over the place.
Installed many TA and shimed and aligned. With a good TA bushing you dont have the problem where camber changes with a stationary vehical, but when the TA bushing has failed it happens all you need to do is drive around the block and measure again. It settles differently. Sometimes more and sometimes less. Of course if everything else is tight, struts , half shafts etc its hard to notice the effect, but usually when its bad its usually all three and therefore the TA bushings effect the situation. Once they are replaced then the other 2 will show how much effect they have. anyway the point of his question was based on the camber bolt . If it didn't move then you need to check all three. No point if you want it fixed.
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Old Sep 13, 2013 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Easy Mike
Take the car to a shop and have a four wheel alignment done. You may not have done yourself any favors when you did your own alignment.

If I recall, didn't you also replace the stock spring?

Yep, are you saying I should have aligned it after the replacement?
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