I took the transmission out on my '75 L48 to replace the clutch, and I'm having a hard time re-installing it. I replaced the pilot bushing, had the flywheel resurfaced & re-installed it, installed the new clutch kit, new throwout bearing, re-attached bellhousing, and connected the clutch fork back to the pedal. When I try to re-install the transmission it just doesn't want to go in all the way. The clutch alignment tool goes in fine (obviously I'm taking it out before installing tranny), and the input shaft on the transmission looks flawless. I tried having somebody pump the clutch but it barely made a difference. The transmission goes just far enough that I can put a tranny-to-bellhousing bolt in place with one or two threads reaching the bellhousing, but not enough to "pull it in" that way which I'm sure is a bad idea anyway. Gap is ~1"... which is about the depth of the pilot bearing. I'm wondering if maybe the pilot bearing hole is just tight and I need to beat on the yoke-end of the transmission to get it in there. That was the case with installing the pilot bushing in the first place, took a lot more force than I would have expected but went in fine when I used a heavy enough hammer & wood block.

One more thing... is the clutch supposed to operate normally when the transmission isn't attached? I wouldn't expect it to, but the pedal doesn't tighten up until near the floor. I adjusted it tighter today before I attempt this again hoping it might help somewhat, but I would hate to get the transmission in only to find out I did something wrong with the clutch install. I'm confident that I put the pressure plate facing the correct side and installed the throwout bearing correctly (you know those tabs)

Everything up to this point is documented in this thread: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...replace+clutch

 

Did you verify the old pilot bushing had the same ID as the new pilot bushing? (or at the least, see that the new pilot bushing fits on the flat section of the input shaft?)

Are you rotating the output shaft of the trans in order to get the clutch splines to line up with the splines of the input shaft?

 

One time I put the clutch disk in backwards in a car inadvertently. I was able to reassemble everything but getting the transmission set back in took more force than expected. In the end I took everything apart because the clutchpedal offered no resistance until end of travel and not enough to work. Found my error upon disassembly. It was not a C3 but might be worth a check.

 

One thing I have learned is that all parts are not created equal ! It's a good idea to test fit all parts before doing a final assembly.Your pilot bearing may be to small or could have closed when you installed it.My pilot bushing was from Auto Gear which is a quality piece and fit perfectly.Heard the NAPA ones don't fit well and are not of good quality.If a magnet sticks to it don't use it..If you got the clutch disc aligned pretty close you can try to have someone press on the clutch while you push the trans in that last inch.This little trick worked for me.If it doesn't go you'll need to find out which part is not fitting correctly.By all means do not force the trans with the bolts! You could try fitting in the trans without the clutch to see if it bolts up to the bell housing.This is a quick check to see if your bell housing needs alignment.Bolt up the trans and spin the yoke with the trans in gear.Should spin nicely,if not you may need to align the bell housing with a dial indicator..Good Luck hope you find the problem....

 

Verified that the input shaft fit in the bushing before installing it in into the engine. Now that you mention it, it fit easily. That probably isn't the problem.

I didn't try rotating the output shaft, that is a good idea.

 

I seem to recall this happening to me several years ago on my `79 Firebird. It something to do with the throwout bearing not being able to seat properly down the polished sleeve.

Take out the fork and throwout bearing and see if it seats properly.

 

mike or measure the id of the installed pilot bushing and mike the od of the trans input shaft. If using the bronze version, you might have mushroomed it a bit closed when installing it.

I messed up and did just this and 4sp on my 76 would not go in just as you describe. I reemed out the pilot id a few thousands and the 4sp slid right in after considerable head scratching and many choice words.

Good suggestion above to rotate the out 4sp shaft to align the spline grooves too, good to know that.

Hope this might help.

 

something else might be to insure the trans and engine are on the same 'plane'? in other words the same angles. its probably been posted, but when you rotate, make sure the trans is in gear

 

The problem was that the clutch friction plate had shifted. I *thought* the alignment tool was going in all the way but when I measured it, it wasn't. I had to take the bellhousing and loosen the clutch housing to align it. I think I had removed the clutch alignment tool before fully torquing the bolts last time. Got the transmission in, though it took a lot of wiggling. Having somebody sitting in the car working the clutch and lifting/pushing the transmission forward while turning the yoke helped a lot. You can fit your hand right through the shifter hole and grab the yoke.

Thanks for the help, guys.

 

Some of those alignment tools are not always so great and can cause you alignment issues as well. Glad you got it back together.

 

Good going!

 

Okay so I finally got the shifter back in and functional. I had to take it out a few times to align it... kept getting stuck. I can now shift through all four gears and reverse. Reverse lockout works, I could remove the key once I went into reverse. I reconnected the speedo cable and exhaust, and the distributor. Finally, hooked up the battery.

Put the key in, turned halfway and the buzzer sounds - good. Tried to start it (driveshaft still disconnected and car is still on jack stands) and the starter sounded once then clicked, now nothing. Fuse blown, I assume, but I'm not sure what could be causing it. Any ideas?

The only electrical components that I think were touched during this job are the distributor, reverse light sensor (which is sealed anyway), battery cable, and a ground wire that connects to a bellhousing bolt

 

Check the battery cables. What you describe sounds just like a bad battery connection.

 

Hah, you were exactly right. I tightened the cable and it started right up. And the carb caught fire. And it went out right before I pulled the pin on the fire extinguisher.

I'm done for tonight

 

Caught fire inside the carb or on the intake?

 

Also, sometimes a fresh clutch disc will have enough paint inside the splines to jam everything up. Found that out the hard way, of course.

 

It never ends...

Life is good.